Flow through console swap questions
#1
Flow through console swap questions
Considering swapping out my jump seat / console for a flow through console. Do I need to change out the dash pieces on either side of the radio to make it fit? Anybody have the part numbers?
Chris
Chris
#2
Senior Member
Yep!! here is my link that goes into pretty good detail.... I don't have the part #'s but there is a link to the place where I got them.... It is a long write up but take the time and go through it all and it will show you what you have to do...... I address the side panels and the left side that needs to be modified and also the pieces you will have to make since that actual dash mount is different and doesn't come down far enough to meet the flow through side panels.....
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/dont-t...onsole-148770/
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/dont-t...onsole-148770/
#3
Yep!! here is my link that goes into pretty good detail.... I don't have the part #'s but there is a link to the place where I got them.... It is a long write up but take the time and go through it all and it will show you what you have to do...... I address the side panels and the left side that needs to be modified and also the pieces you will have to make since that actual dash mount is different and doesn't come down far enough to meet the flow through side panels.....
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/dont-t...onsole-148770/
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/dont-t...onsole-148770/
just bought a console!
Thanks
#4
Senior Member
I bought a sheet of ABS plastic off of eBay if I can remember correctly it was from Sonic or something like that. You want to get the ABS as thick as the panel! I then installed the side panels from the console and made the piece from the ABS to fit the dash panel, the dash and the console side panel so it sat on top (of the console side panel), as far as mounting I took the side panels off and sanded down the inside flat and used a piece of the abs plastic (lets call it a support panel) that glued to the inside of the console side panel but stuck above the top a couple of inches. Then I took the piece that I made fit the space and glued it to the top of the side panel and to the support panel and let it dry.. as for glue I got ABS glue from lowes in the plumbing section. I also got the purple prep solvent that I used to pretreat all the glue surfaces first. I hope this helps!
#5
Senior Member
here you go! the ABS plastic is 1/8" thick,,, that matches up perfectly to the side panel providing you sand the back (inside) flat, then glue the support on,,, once dry when you put you fabricated piece on against the support panel it is a flush fit to the side panel. this link below is the sheet I got.... you will have to make a piece for between the console to the dash below the sync aux usb panel too....
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...9-00-9032.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...9-00-9032.html
#6
I bought a sheet of ABS plastic off of eBay if I can remember correctly it was from Sonic or something like that. You want to get the ABS as thick as the panel! I then installed the side panels from the console and made the piece from the ABS to fit the dash panel, the dash and the console side panel so it sat on top (of the console side panel), as far as mounting I took the side panels off and sanded down the inside flat and used a piece of the abs plastic (lets call it a support panel) that glued to the inside of the console side panel but stuck above the top a couple of inches. Then I took the piece that I made fit the space and glued it to the top of the side panel and to the support panel and let it dry.. as for glue I got ABS glue from lowes in the plumbing section. I also got the purple prep solvent that I used to pretreat all the glue surfaces first. I hope this helps!
I plan on keeping the column shift and making a switch panel in the shift area.
For the drivers side dash pillar was it simply transferring a clip over?
#7
Senior Member
BTW the ABS can be heated and molded which will give the concave look.... that is what I did so it looked like it was factory once done. The way I did it was to take the side panel with the attached abs panel making sure the glue was completely dry, then I took it out to the truck. I took a propane torch with me. I heated the new ABS piece and then quickly mounted the side panel (remember to use gloves) then I press fit it as in molding it. once I got it where I wanted it I took a wet towel and cooled the plastic and it stays. the I just got some good plastic paint and it looks as good now as it did when I did it.... I have removed it several times and neither the abs or the paint has ever cracked! Good Luck!
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#8
Perfect thanks.
Did not know I needed to make a filler panel under the sync ports. Good to know. For the center dash and console trim I am torn. Between Ptm tuxedo black, red painted like a raptor, or wrapped in 3m carbon di-noc
Did not know I needed to make a filler panel under the sync ports. Good to know. For the center dash and console trim I am torn. Between Ptm tuxedo black, red painted like a raptor, or wrapped in 3m carbon di-noc
#9
Senior Member
So you overlapped on the bottom it sounds like. The support panel makes sense. No issues installing the console with the new pieces glued in place? Very excited to do this mod. I have been wanting to install leather but the grey plastic on the top of the arm rest would look goofy with black leather.
I plan on keeping the column shift and making a switch panel in the shift area.
For the drivers side dash pillar was it simply transferring a clip over?
I plan on keeping the column shift and making a switch panel in the shift area.
For the drivers side dash pillar was it simply transferring a clip over?
the drivers side dash panel need to be cut at the steering column and you will have to make a clip support or you can just forget about the bottom left clip as I went through making the support and it really didn't matter. If you have the new dash pillers you can match the D/S to the old one and you will see how far the new one sticks out compared to the old one... HOWEVER,,,, just take your time and cut it back to fit! If you use the old one you will cut to much of the side off... it will fit but I don't think it will look as good as you will be cutting into the vent lines! take a look at the last picture on post #2 from my link.... you will see it sticks really close to the steering column, but if you look above it you will see the rubber seal. if you would follow that seal down and cut the panel to it you would be cutting the panel back to the little vent slits.... It will still work and probably only you would ever notice it but I like the way it looks on mine..
#10
Cool.
How much work was it to fit the stock radio in the lower portion? If I ever take on a ipad install. I appreciate all the help. Pretty handy and used to detail as I build retrofit projector headlights but I like having a game plan in mind before I dive in.
Another member on here said he went without the clip and worked fine and seemed sturdy I will assess it once I am in there.
Only downside of this mod I see is the lady won't be able to slide over anymore.
How much work was it to fit the stock radio in the lower portion? If I ever take on a ipad install. I appreciate all the help. Pretty handy and used to detail as I build retrofit projector headlights but I like having a game plan in mind before I dive in.
Another member on here said he went without the clip and worked fine and seemed sturdy I will assess it once I am in there.
Only downside of this mod I see is the lady won't be able to slide over anymore.