coborn35

Used to changing brake shoes on locomotives but never done my truck before! After paying a fair but still high price to get my front end done, I believe I can handle my rear end myself. From the videos I've watched it's pretty straight forward. My biggest question is on some of the videos I watched there were comments saying that you need to open the cover of the master cylinder. Do I need to do anything special besides opening it while I squeeze the piston in? I assume it's to relieve pressure when you force the brake fluid back? I can just put it back on like normal when done? Just a rotor/pad change so don't believe I need to bleed anything down. Also, some of the videos used a torque wrench for the rear caliper bolts, and some didn't. Is that totally necessary? Finally, I do drive a lot in the city on my way to work so my brakes do get a fair bit of stop and go use. Any recommendations for pads/rotors?

flamehead16

i never open the cover, just squeeze it in

rrp0968

Just make sure you have enough space in the master cylinder for the fluid to rise. If you have never added any, it should not be an issue. Paint and brake fluid do not play well together.

Masi1926

I do loosen my cover about half a turn. Just enough to ease pushing the fluid back out, but I want it to sit back down once I'm done compressing the caliper.
Can't go wrong with Napa Premium Pads and Rotors. You could go with the Severe Duty or Adaptive ceramic, but the Premium's are a 'can't go wrong'
type of purchase.
AutoZone...get exactly what you pay for.
Could go online and spend some big money on slotted and or drilled.
I know you just had them done, but if I was to buy slotted or drilled it would be for the front rotors & pads initially.

Wanted33

You're right, it's pretty straight forward. I open the cover just because I always have. And as advised make sure the fluid doesn't flow out of the fluid reservoir as you compress the pistons to forgo a mess. If you think it will just grab you a cheap turkey baster from the dollar store, and suck some out before you start. Then replace it with new stuff when you've finished. It's usually a one beer job on my beer schedule.

NoMoreGreen

I went with the Stage 3 Motorsports z36 brakes. I am very happy with them.


I did learn not to have the parking brake set when changing the rears. There is a drum brake there too. this should of been common sense. I learned the hard way.


I simply removed the cap to my brake reservoir.


I felt the front were easier then the rears. Of course I forgot to take off my parking brake on the first rear one.

bassJAM

Disk brakes are super quick and easy to do. I normally do open the master cover if I remember, it certainly doesn't hurt.

I used to use a torque wrench when I worked on cars, but over the years I've gotten a good feel so I don't use it very often anymore. Don’t quote me, but I think the caliper bolts need to be at like 30 lb-ft while the bracket bolts are closer to 100 lb-ft (if you’re replacing the disk as well). If you’re doing that you’ll want a bit of wire to hang the caliper assembly, don’t ever let it hang by the brake line!

coborn35

So in a nutshell, if I don't have a torque wrench, I'll be ok if I use common sense and try to tighten them to what they were when I removed them?

TimelessR1

Yes, and a breaker bar or pipe to slip over the rachet will help when trying to break the bracket bolts loose. Saves your knuckles

I also like to put a little anti-seize on the caliper bolts as well as the bracket bolts...makes the job next time sooo much easier

bassJAM

Yeah, for the most part. Just keep in mind removal torque doesn't always feel the same, since nuts and bolts can be stuck due to corrosion. Sometimes I'll use an 18" breaker bar when busting the caliper bracket bolts loose, and even then they can be really tight. But I normally use a much smaller 10-12" breaker bar when snugging things up because it's easy to overtighten when using that long breaker bar.