F150 3.7l to Ecoboost Swap possible?
04-14-2015, 02:41 AM
#31
Senior Member
Make sure and pressure test the oil coolers and intercooler. If they're cracked, repair or replace them. Also check over the wiring harness really well to make sure it's good. Keep the donor truck for anything small you might be able to use for parts.
That front looks pretty screwed though. Lol
That front looks pretty screwed though. Lol
04-14-2015, 08:44 AM
#32
Make sure and pressure test the oil coolers and intercooler. If they're cracked, repair or replace them. Also check over the wiring harness really well to make sure it's good. Keep the donor truck for anything small you might be able to use for parts.
That front looks pretty screwed though. Lol
That front looks pretty screwed though. Lol
The donor truck has the trailer controller which is great, I will retrofit it and have the dealer code it for me, it also came with the Heavy Duty cooling pkg or something like that, thing is that I will probably be able to tow 11.000 lbs+ after completing this, right?
The project will most likely start on Friday, will keep posted and upload photos.
04-14-2015, 09:46 AM
#33
Senior Member
I will weigh in one last time: you are making a colossal mistake here. You have already spent more than you should have, and you are about to ruin a perfectly good XLT. You are going to end up with a pile of worthless scrap AND a truck that doesn't(and never will) run and operate correctly. As a bonus it will be absolutely worthless when you go to sell it, because it doesn't have the original drivetrain any longer. Don't believe me? go on ebay(or anywhere you choose) and look at vehicles that have had major alterations, and research their values-'nuff said? Lastly, you could pedal all this scrap, sell your truck, and be driving the truck of your choice before the end of the week. I guess you can do anything you want, but to be done correctly, you will have to change the entire wiring harness- bumper to bumper, and don't forget the little black box under the passenger seat- the one that recorded the last crash- Oh, and it needs to be sent out and reset- or the SES light will NEVER shut off. You MUST reuse the one for the EB, because it will only function with that drive train. As far as the trans, I would not trust the 3.7 unit to stand up to the torque of the EB engine. Also, you better send the EB trans to a shop to be inspected for cracks from the accident. See what I mean? there is no end to the fun when swapping drive trains in "modern" vehicles. I KNOW I'm being a party-pooping jerk, because I'm trying to save you from pumping many thousands down a blind hole! Or: do what I say, not what I've done 
P.S. Not that it matters, but I am a former ASE master tech, a GM master tech, an aircraft A&P, a master machinist, and I built stock cars for 25 years on the side, so I'm not exactly an idiot.
P.S. Not that it matters, but I am a former ASE master tech, a GM master tech, an aircraft A&P, a master machinist, and I built stock cars for 25 years on the side, so I'm not exactly an idiot.
Last edited by elfiero; 04-14-2015 at 09:51 AM.
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Sweatmachine (04-14-2015)
04-14-2015, 12:13 PM
#34
Senior Member
I apologize for the long delay in responding. I've been off for work and now I'm back and almost ready to start this.
Btw, what do you mean with WB? here: "If both trucks have the same WB no other parts should be needed."
The first F150 that I had in my shop was sold like it was to a customer, so I just got another one, here it is:
Attachment 379945
Attachment 379946
Attachment 379947
If WB means Wheel Base, then its not the same, I have the supercrew short box and this is a regular cab long bed, I went to the yard to see it prior to buying it, the engine looks fine and the truck starts just fine. She has 30k miles in it and its a 2013.
Right now my plan is to remove the engine and transmission assembly w/wiring harness and ECU, oil coolers, radiator, condenser and intercooler, install everything on my truck and see if it detects the key and starts fine.
Some people say it will work fine with my key, some other say that I need to replace the ignition switch and use the key from the donor vehicle, I guess we'll see.
Btw, what do you mean with WB? here: "If both trucks have the same WB no other parts should be needed."
The first F150 that I had in my shop was sold like it was to a customer, so I just got another one, here it is:
Attachment 379945
Attachment 379946
Attachment 379947
If WB means Wheel Base, then its not the same, I have the supercrew short box and this is a regular cab long bed, I went to the yard to see it prior to buying it, the engine looks fine and the truck starts just fine. She has 30k miles in it and its a 2013.
Right now my plan is to remove the engine and transmission assembly w/wiring harness and ECU, oil coolers, radiator, condenser and intercooler, install everything on my truck and see if it detects the key and starts fine.
Some people say it will work fine with my key, some other say that I need to replace the ignition switch and use the key from the donor vehicle, I guess we'll see.
I can tell you it will not run using your ignition a bit more to it than that. Many many different modules that have to talk to each other for it to work.
I do not have time right now to explain it all but you may want to take a peak at this thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=147380
04-14-2015, 12:31 PM
#35
Senior Member
I will weigh in one last time: you are making a colossal mistake here. You have already spent more than you should have, and you are about to ruin a perfectly good XLT. You are going to end up with a pile of worthless scrap AND a truck that doesn't(and never will) run and operate correctly. As a bonus it will be absolutely worthless when you go to sell it, because it doesn't have the original drivetrain any longer. Don't believe me? go on ebay(or anywhere you choose) and look at vehicles that have had major alterations, and research their values-'nuff said? Lastly, you could pedal all this scrap, sell your truck, and be driving the truck of your choice before the end of the week. I guess you can do anything you want, but to be done correctly, you will have to change the entire wiring harness- bumper to bumper, and don't forget the little black box under the passenger seat- the one that recorded the last crash- Oh, and it needs to be sent out and reset- or the SES light will NEVER shut off. You MUST reuse the one for the EB, because it will only function with that drive train. As far as the trans, I would not trust the 3.7 unit to stand up to the torque of the EB engine. Also, you better send the EB trans to a shop to be inspected for cracks from the accident. See what I mean? there is no end to the fun when swapping drive trains in "modern" vehicles. I KNOW I'm being a party-pooping jerk, because I'm trying to save you from pumping many thousands down a blind hole! Or: do what I say, not what I've done
P.S. Not that it matters, but I am a former ASE master tech, a GM master tech, an aircraft A&P, a master machinist, and I built stock cars for 25 years on the side, so I'm not exactly an idiot.
P.S. Not that it matters, but I am a former ASE master tech, a GM master tech, an aircraft A&P, a master machinist, and I built stock cars for 25 years on the side, so I'm not exactly an idiot.
I have been told the same thing on my eco swap into a older truck. Cannot be done! By ford racing and many many others.
Guess what . . When the time came to start it up it took about 5 hours to hook up wiring etc. Once I hook up my steering shaft and mount battery I could take it for a drive with only faults being in the Restraint system because they are not hooked up yet. Oh yeah, I need to custom build a intercooler too. not much room up front.
What he is trying to do could be done in a weekend with a helper . .
You should probably go back to building stock cars . .
And yes I am talking from experience because I have already done it.
04-14-2015, 12:48 PM
#36
I will weigh in one last time: you are making a colossal mistake here. You have already spent more than you should have, and you are about to ruin a perfectly good XLT. You are going to end up with a pile of worthless scrap AND a truck that doesn't(and never will) run and operate correctly. As a bonus it will be absolutely worthless when you go to sell it, because it doesn't have the original drivetrain any longer. Don't believe me? go on ebay(or anywhere you choose) and look at vehicles that have had major alterations, and research their values-'nuff said? Lastly, you could pedal all this scrap, sell your truck, and be driving the truck of your choice before the end of the week. I guess you can do anything you want, but to be done correctly, you will have to change the entire wiring harness- bumper to bumper, and don't forget the little black box under the passenger seat- the one that recorded the last crash- Oh, and it needs to be sent out and reset- or the SES light will NEVER shut off. You MUST reuse the one for the EB, because it will only function with that drive train. As far as the trans, I would not trust the 3.7 unit to stand up to the torque of the EB engine. Also, you better send the EB trans to a shop to be inspected for cracks from the accident. See what I mean? there is no end to the fun when swapping drive trains in "modern" vehicles. I KNOW I'm being a party-pooping jerk, because I'm trying to save you from pumping many thousands down a blind hole! Or: do what I say, not what I've done
P.S. Not that it matters, but I am a former ASE master tech, a GM master tech, an aircraft A&P, a master machinist, and I built stock cars for 25 years on the side, so I'm not exactly an idiot.
P.S. Not that it matters, but I am a former ASE master tech, a GM master tech, an aircraft A&P, a master machinist, and I built stock cars for 25 years on the side, so I'm not exactly an idiot.
Let me just clarify the things a little bit:
I sincerely appreciate your warning and time on writing that. But I'm not asking if its cost-worthy or time worthy or anything. I'm just asking what needs to be done, thats it.
Its gonna be expensive? Its my money. Am I going to scrap a perfectly running XLT? Its my truck. Is it going to take me forever to do this? Its my time.
I'm not doing this because I need to, I'm doing it because I can and because I want to.
About the SRS module on the truck, I've rebuilt 2 F-150's before and never had any issues installing a used SRS module on them, Airbag lights goes off. There's always lots of people saying that when you swap a module it will need coding, but its not always true.
Last edited by Gassan; 04-14-2015 at 12:51 PM.
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04-14-2015, 05:32 PM
#37
Senior Member
People have been swapping drive trains in vehicles pretty much since they offered different power trains. Yes the new vehicles are more electronic nowadays, still the same principle. I realize that people with experience are wanting to put caution to people with less experience. That doesn't mean you should belittle them or put their idea down in any way.
I am looking forward to the swap. Good luck and take lots of pictures.
I am looking forward to the swap. Good luck and take lots of pictures.
04-14-2015, 07:13 PM
#38
Senior Member
Let me just clarify the things a little bit:
I sincerely appreciate your warning and time on writing that. But I'm not asking if its cost-worthy or time worthy or anything. I'm just asking what needs to be done, thats it.
Its gonna be expensive? Its my money. Am I going to scrap a perfectly running XLT? Its my truck. Is it going to take me forever to do this? Its my time.
I'm not doing this because I need to, I'm doing it because I can and because I want to.
About the SRS module on the truck, I've rebuilt 2 F-150's before and never had any issues installing a used SRS module on them, Airbag lights goes off. There's always lots of people saying that when you swap a module it will need coding, but its not always true.
I sincerely appreciate your warning and time on writing that. But I'm not asking if its cost-worthy or time worthy or anything. I'm just asking what needs to be done, thats it.
Its gonna be expensive? Its my money. Am I going to scrap a perfectly running XLT? Its my truck. Is it going to take me forever to do this? Its my time.
I'm not doing this because I need to, I'm doing it because I can and because I want to.
About the SRS module on the truck, I've rebuilt 2 F-150's before and never had any issues installing a used SRS module on them, Airbag lights goes off. There's always lots of people saying that when you swap a module it will need coding, but its not always true.
Some modules need to be adapted but others not.
Its far too long of a process to explain each one, its possible with or without the original module.
It will not learn your original key on its own . .
I have had each and every component in and out numerous times
I had to replace the fuel tank and used the original eco pump and sender assy. I had to make one fuel line as not avail at the time.
You should be able to use eco lines and all.
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Gassan (04-14-2015)
04-14-2015, 07:25 PM
#39
Senior Member
A typical naysayer . . . What he is doing is a very basic swap.
I have been told the same thing on my eco swap into a older truck. Cannot be done! By ford racing and many many others.
Guess what . . When the time came to start it up it took about 5 hours to hook up wiring etc. Once I hook up my steering shaft and mount battery I could take it for a drive with only faults being in the Restraint system because they are not hooked up yet. Oh yeah, I need to custom build a intercooler too. not much room up front.
What he is trying to do could be done in a weekend with a helper . .
You should probably go back to building stock cars . .
And yes I am talking from experience because I have already done it.
I have been told the same thing on my eco swap into a older truck. Cannot be done! By ford racing and many many others.
Guess what . . When the time came to start it up it took about 5 hours to hook up wiring etc. Once I hook up my steering shaft and mount battery I could take it for a drive with only faults being in the Restraint system because they are not hooked up yet. Oh yeah, I need to custom build a intercooler too. not much room up front.
What he is trying to do could be done in a weekend with a helper . .
You should probably go back to building stock cars . .
And yes I am talking from experience because I have already done it.
04-14-2015, 07:45 PM
#40
None of the SRS has to be hooked up or working in order for truck to run.
- No worries here, I have plenty of experience working with SRS Modules and all that.
Some modules need to be adapted but others not.
- Adapted meaning transferring from the donor truck to my truck?
Its far too long of a process to explain each one, its possible with or without the original module.
- If that's the case, would you mind letting me know at least the basic modules that need to be swapped for the engine to start and the truck to run? I don't mind having a christmas tree in the dash for a couple days while I start resolving each one.
It will not learn your original key on its own . .
- I guess you mean dealer visit is involved here. Not biggie if thats the case, if not, will I need to replace the entire steering column or just the ignition switch?
I have had each and every component in and out numerous times
- Are you the OP on the garagejournal thread?
I had to replace the fuel tank and used the original eco pump and sender assy. I had to make one fuel line as not avail at the time.
- In this case, I believe I would just need to replace the fuel pump and sender, I'm pretty sure that the lines are be the same, but anyway, I will do a visual inspection on Thursday, take several photos and compare everything.
Thanks for helping me out man
- No worries here, I have plenty of experience working with SRS Modules and all that.
Some modules need to be adapted but others not.
- Adapted meaning transferring from the donor truck to my truck?
Its far too long of a process to explain each one, its possible with or without the original module.
- If that's the case, would you mind letting me know at least the basic modules that need to be swapped for the engine to start and the truck to run? I don't mind having a christmas tree in the dash for a couple days while I start resolving each one.
It will not learn your original key on its own . .
- I guess you mean dealer visit is involved here. Not biggie if thats the case, if not, will I need to replace the entire steering column or just the ignition switch?
I have had each and every component in and out numerous times
- Are you the OP on the garagejournal thread?
I had to replace the fuel tank and used the original eco pump and sender assy. I had to make one fuel line as not avail at the time.
- In this case, I believe I would just need to replace the fuel pump and sender, I'm pretty sure that the lines are be the same, but anyway, I will do a visual inspection on Thursday, take several photos and compare everything.
Thanks for helping me out man