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Exploding rear window

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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 03:46 AM
  #831  
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Originally Posted by PerryB
That's WAY over-complicated. All you have to do is pull the ground wire at the lower outside corner, drivers side. Mirrors work, light works, back glass is dead.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I guess some people just like making things hard for themselves by overthinking things......
As long as the feedback wire is still connected, everything will work as it should except the rear defrost.... Not that hard people.
KISS.... Keep It Simple Stupid.
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 11:34 AM
  #832  
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Has anyone had their replacement windo go? Had mine replaced for this problem and now rear defroster button quit working just like before. I just turned off the rear defrost in the remote start settings. Mine is a 2011 screw
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 09:38 PM
  #833  
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Is this the wire that needs to be disconnected on the driver side rear window.


I disconnected it and tried my rear defrost button but it still doesn’t illuminate.
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 11:25 AM
  #834  
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Originally Posted by 1tufgt
Is this the wire that needs to be disconnected on the driver side rear window.


I disconnected it and tried my rear defrost button but it still doesn’t illuminate.
You need something to complete circuit and take load like a light bulb or something
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 12:31 PM
  #835  
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You don't need any load. Most likely you either have an open grid or bad contacts on the slider. I disconnected mine as a preventative measure. The system was in proper working order when unhooked and my indicator lamp still works and the mirrors still heat. If I crack the slider open, the light goes off. You have an underlying issue.
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 01:02 PM
  #836  
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Originally Posted by PerryB
You don't need any load. Most likely you either have an open grid or bad contacts on the slider. I disconnected mine as a preventative measure. The system was in proper working order when unhooked and my indicator lamp still works and the mirrors still heat. If I crack the slider open, the light goes off. You have an underlying issue.
My window slides open and close fine.
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 04:47 PM
  #837  
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There are contact tabs that make/break the circuit when the window opens and closes. I suspect yours may be bad. An easy test would be to disconnect both wires on the passenger side and jumper them together. If the indicator light now works (probably will) the problem is in the rear window. I suspect bad contacts getting hot is the cause of a lot of the windows blowing out.
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 05:21 PM
  #838  
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Originally Posted by PerryB
There are contact tabs that make/break the circuit when the window opens and closes. I suspect yours may be bad. An easy test would be to disconnect both wires on the passenger side and jumper them together. If the indicator light now works (probably will) the problem is in the rear window. I suspect bad contacts getting hot is the cause of a lot of the windows blowing out.
So I disconnected the 2 wires from the window on the passenger side, and placed them together to test before I secured them permanently. As you stated the light now works. Does that mean the rear defroster is broke? My power slide window is still working.

I just used some electrical tape and taped the connections together.

Last edited by 1tufgt; Apr 19, 2018 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 08:29 PM
  #839  
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Either the heating grid is severed somewhere along the path or the slider contacts are burned/corroded. These contacts are not related to the power slide circuit. They complete the heater circuit when the slide is closed and tie all three panels of the heating grid together. Left, center and right.

Last edited by PerryB; Apr 19, 2018 at 09:49 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 08:36 PM
  #840  
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Any good way to diagnose it?
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