Originally Posted by timtrace

Here's a few pics of Shadetree's rear slider window defroster bypass mod done on my 2014 XLT Screw Boost. With this mod, your truck's heated mirrors will heat and your in-dash rear defroster lamp will light, but your rear slider window defroster will not come on with the dash switch or with the remote start until you perchance to revert the mod somewhere down the road.

HEADS UP (edit) My method shown here is an overcomplicated way of doing this mod, but it demonstrates good wiring techniques that you could use elsewhere so I'm leaving it up. Shadetree has since documented a simpler method which doesn't involve modifying the harness. However, I think the cleanest overall way to do the mod would be to make a jumper of two small female spade connectors and a short piece of wire, then jump across the pins inside the OEM plug. Maybe the first person to attempt this technique will add a few pix to the topic...?

And here goes! I promise not to get as carried away with the documentation as I did with my DRL topic.

First up: You need to fold the passenger rear seatback down. This is a pic of the seatback release lever. The seatback is already folded down in this pic. Follow the red arrow to the little lever that has to be pulled upward to release the seatback. First you fold up the lower part of the seat, then you reach behind to unlock the back. Some folks use a box-end wrench to get leverage; I used my fingers. Next you release the lower part and finally fold the whole assembly down flat to the floor. It's really quite easy.

Attachment 485569


Here's a pic of the defroster connector, already disconnected for testing purposes. The slider crosses through the upper left quarter of the picture.

Attachment 485570


This is a pic of the lower half of the connector, removed from the back wall of the cab and prepped for Shadetree's mod in the way I like to do my wiring. I use a thermal wire stripper to peel back enough insulation to solder onto the bare wire. This technique won't damage the conductors in the slightest. You could also use a lighter to melt the insulation and a gentle touch with a pair of wire cutters to peel it away, but be careful or you'll nick the conductors .

Attachment 485571


Here's the 18ga jumper wire ready to be soldered. I used a little more wire than I needed so that I could simply cut and e-tape it off later if necessary, as opposed to digging back into the harness and desoldering old work.

Attachment 485572


And here's the finished work, with both lines individually e-taped and then taped together, and the connector remounted to the back cab wall. I simply wedged the other half of the connector behind the wire harness where it won't rattle loose. Done and done.

Attachment 485573