My back window was replaced just before i bought my truck, i heard about the issues they have and made sure to turn off the rear defrost from my remote start options.

 

Not using the rear defrost is unacceptable to me. I've found I RARELY have to use it anyway. If I need it, I use it. If it breaks, I have a zero glass deductible, but I'd push Ford to replace it first, which some have had success with.

 

My power slider will be replaced by Safelite for my $100 comp deductible.

Will I need to worry about the defroster killing the replacement glass? Will it be tougher stuff than the OEM glass?

 

I just don't use the rear defroster. I do not want to go down this path with the dealership with all the difficulty everyone else is experiencing.

 

Happened on my 2013 less than 2 weeks ago. Safelite replaced it for $820 after labor. I paid my $250 deductible. I need to turn off rear defrost on my remote start. All I heard was a loud bang.

 

This.

It sucks that we have to do it but I agree, I'm not dealing with my dealer.

 

After reading all these threads about the rear windows busting, I cannot understand how the majority blame the remote start system as the fault for the cause and simply deactivating it on the settings menu will solve the problem. Everyone seems to think that just by engaging the button on the dash to energize the defrost feature is the key to keeping the window from breaking. How is that, when it is the same power source from the same energized relay that sends power to the defrost grid?

To me, it's just a poor unanticipated design flaw in the mounting of the window that does not allow enough room for a section or sections of the window to expand under thermal expansion during the warming process. The steel cab window opening is contracted in cold weather and the window probably does not have enough adequate room to expand and therefore starts to bend and flex to the point of failure.

Does anybody have photos for comparison from the original design rear windows to the newer design from FORD?

 

I don't blame remote start, but I don't personally use the rear defroster button. The only times mine has ever come on where while using the remote start function. So I'll just turn it off in the remote start setup and ignore it. I could pull the fuse, but I never push the button to begin with.

 

I'm thinking I should add a resistor to the circuit to reduce the amount of heat created. The question is how much. And if it shatters will Ford deny claim on the basis of the modification.

A 50W 0.25 Ohm resistor might do. Amazon sells one for about $15.
A resistor installed in series with the heating elements will reduce the current and therefore the heating in the window.
The resistor itself will necessarily get hot. So it will have to be secured to the rear of the cab (metal) to dissipate the heat.

Alternatively you can disconnect the rear window heater or install a switch.

 

I'm also not blaming the rumor start, it's either early in this thread or another one where someone put a heat camera on the window and the connector and found its getting too hot or too much power sent to it.

I think people just forget and use the remote start and BAM, it happens. I unplugged it at the window and disabled it in my remote start settings. The mirrors still work, it just doesn't light up on the console.