In the old days, you had to "break in" a new engine and transmission so everything can get seated properly etc. Driving a mixture of city and highway and being careful not to rev or overload the engine with weight or RPM's. Is that still the case today? Because the machining tolereneces are so tight today I was just wondering if that is still necessary. And when should the first oil change be done. the manual says 12000 kms, which seems like alot. I'm going to do mine every 5000 kms. It's just such good cheap insurance to have a healthy motor why wouldn't you do it. I'm not going to pamper this truck but I'm not going to abuse it either. I only have 276 kms on it so an oil change @ 5000kms is probably still 4-5 months away. Just wondering.

 

The only break-in recommendation I found in the F150 manual was to avoid towing for the first 1k miles.

Manuals used to recommend light-duty, varied RPMs, early first oil change etc.

I've heard the argument, too, that the "tolerances are so close on modern engines" that they don't need break-in. I don't buy that. When you're building an engine in your garage, you can set the cylinder tolerances (for example) as close or loose as you want - you still have to break it in. If anything, close fitting parts would require MORE careful break-in.

The dealer service agent told me that there was no break-in becuase they are all broke in at the factory. Since it didn't show up as mileage on my odometer, I have to assume it happened on an engine dyno, which did nothing for the transmission or rearend.

This is the one case I've decided to ignore the advice in the manual. I'm breaking it in just like I've done every other new/rebuilt engine I've had:

- drive conservatively for 3000 miles
- avoid constand RPM for the first 1000 miles
- change the oil @ 1500
- change it again @ 5000
- change it every 5000 thereafter (3000 if straight dino-oil)

Oil is cheap and extra PMCS can't hurt.

 

I like to do a 500-1000 mile oil change with any new engine just to get all the metal out of the oil. A lot of mechanics I worked with recomended it. Makes sense if you think about it.

 

Here we go again! It's time for the periodic break in requirement and oil change interval thread!!

The owners manual is pretty clear - no extensive break in needed, just vary speed during the first 1000 miles and don't tow for the first 1000 miles.

No mention at all of 'break-in' oil, or the need to make the first oil change after 500/1000/1500 miles to get rid of all the metal filings that wear off. Maintenance guide says first oil change at 7500 miles, or 5000 miles under "Special Operating Conditions."

GunMonkey is correct, extra PMCS can't hurt, but oil isn't as cheap as it used to be!

Let the fun begin!

 

This is the exact method I use and used on my 2010.

 

Hell, Walmart even sells the exact oil and filter recommended for our trucks.
I'm able to buy the stuff for an oil change for less than what the gas to drive 150 miles costs.

I'll change it more frequently than recommended and consider it a bargain.

I'm relatively young, but machine maintenance is one thing I lean old-school on.


EDIT: Punishher, is that your DB shotgun in your avatar picture? I know a really trick and easy way to plug the open ribs where it was cut off to keep debris out and keep the ribs from breaking loose at the muzzle.

 

I agree with the advice in the manual about break-in, and also think it's cheap insureance to do an "extra" early oil change if convenient.

As far as driving your truck gently for the first few thousand miles, has anyone ever seen how "easy" the transport drivers go while loading and unloading your new truck? If you've ever watched the process, it'll almost make you ill imagining how much abuse your new truck went thru before it arrived on the dealer's lot. Just sayin'....

 

Do not reuse a clutch that is abnormally worn or damaged. Check that the grooves, springs, shock absorbers and fasteners for damage. If you have problems and have been changing their transmission, clutch problem may be related to the risk of not using the clutch of age with a good transmission.My preference would be to test fire/run-in the engine without having to completely install all the remaining hydraulic components, that is, the solenoid, vacuum and ATF bottles, hoses, etc.

 

I think you are using "tolerance" and "clearance" interchangeably, which is not correct.

Tolerance is how close you machine a piece to the intended dimension, plus or minus a certain amount sometimes .0001.

Clearance is a distance that could be an inch if you want it to be, like a 3" diameter piston in a 4" diameter cylinder, which is something you can do in your garage with parts that were machined to a certain tolerance.

The better the tolerance on the parts to be assembled does result in less of a need to break in because there is nothing to break in. The greater the tolerance in these parts requires more break in because the parts don't fit as well (high spots on pistons/cylinder walls, not as much clearance in certain areas, etc...).

 

Why do none of your posts relate to the thread topic?