oxwhite11

Mine is hooked up to that hose and works pretty good.
http://youtu.be/ME34ZibyY70

rcherry11

that does run smoth, that's the problem with the 13 it don't have that line to plug into. I think I'm going to drill and tap a hole just behind the throttle body

cptbimes

^Can you take a picture of what you end up doing? I have a '13 and want to install a mechanical gauge as well.

rcherry11

Finally got it, it was right in front if me the whole time the factory line perfect shot into the manifold. Trim off the factory rubber hose and hard line (weird setup) and put in a tee. I went to the hardware store and got a tee that had three sizes on it and just trimmed off what sizes I needed

Kenneth Forbus

This is where I tapped my fitting. Gets boost and vacuum.

rcherry11

I believe that is the best spot on the 11-12 but on the 13 that line is not there.

STingray1300

I'm having the same fun.

If rcherry hasn't said it enough: The 2013 EB does NOT have that rearward vacuum line on the passenger side. The spot where that line comes out of the manifold on the 11-12 models just has a molded-in block off boss there on the 13s. I suppose one could drill and tap for a fitting if wanted. But personally, I don't want to

But the Roush gauge comes with a "T" that has a little brass "choke" in it. Does this really matter? Because if I get a bigger "T" to install on that
large(r) manifold line, it won't have that choke in it...

Everything else works fine (lights/etc.)

Thanks for any input!

STingray1300

Well, got it all worked out today. The "T" that comes with the Roush gauge *IS* necessary because of that little brass choke orifice. So, following rcherry's idea, I got a universal "T" (larger than the Roush "T" to accommodate the OEM vacuum line (5/16" I.D. - plastic liner)

So, then I cut off the Roush "T" where that little orifice lives and stuffed it into the clear plastic line that comes with the Roush gauge (this was not an easy process, BTW), then connected the line to the larger "T" that I installed in the OEM vacuum line. Then I used stainless 'safety wire' and secured the line onto the "T".

The needle "bounced" when idling or anytime in the vacuum range. It would smooth out when swinging up into the boost range, but then bounced again in vacuum range. Well, not anymore. It's all smooth running now.

I also found that running the clear plastic vacuum line through the fire wall was easy-peasy: I used a (paper style) hole punch and punched a 3/16" hole in that 2+" solid rubber grommet under and to the left (looking at it from the grille) of the master cylinder. This allowed a bit more flexibility to run the vacuum line to avoid any hazards, and it's a little more stealthy than the other suggestions.

I ran the red/white leads together to the right side fuse panel and tapped into #33 fuse with a fuse tapper. There's a huge ground lug just inches below the center vent hole to use a ScothLok on for grounding.

All's good now!

rcherry11

STingray, how did you get it to stop bouncing?

STingray1300

You know that light-colored "T" that Roush included in the kit with the gauge? Notice that in the 'out' position there is a tiny little brass choke orifice. I simply cut off the tip of the "T" where the choke is and stuffed it into the clear plastic vacuum line that came with the gauge. You have to stuff it far enough in to the clear line to leave room to install onto that universal "T" that you (we) bought and installed.

Now, I'm going to tell you, that stuffing that little piece in the clear tubing is no easy feat. It takes muscle and patience, and also a tool that will fit into the vacuum line and yet not push the brass piece out of its parent plastic (left over from the light colored "T").

Smoothed things right out! LMK if you have further questions...