Easiest way to swap out stereo in 2013 with 4.2 sync
#1
Easiest way to swap out stereo in 2013 with 4.2 sync
I didn't want to do this. I've been trying to hold off, I was going to install an LC2i or 6i to get the sound the way I want it while maintaining the factory look and steering wheel controls but, now here I am thinking I'm finally done with this junk.
I have a cheap line out converter installed for my sub already but that sounds bad with how the factory unit cuts bass. I know the other converters will fix that.
The right front channel cuts out completely all the time now so I don't know what's going on there. The steering wheel controls are finicky and work when they want to, and sometimes my screen will just go black so I can't make anything happen.
Things I'd like to accomplish would be the following
Have a semi inexpensive double din display that I can use for controlling amps.
Improve sound quality
Not overly concerned with steering wheel controls
Maintain factory Bluetooth mic if possible
Route factory backup cam to display on new head unit if possible.
Any suggestions on how to make some or all of my wants happen?
I have a cheap line out converter installed for my sub already but that sounds bad with how the factory unit cuts bass. I know the other converters will fix that.
The right front channel cuts out completely all the time now so I don't know what's going on there. The steering wheel controls are finicky and work when they want to, and sometimes my screen will just go black so I can't make anything happen.
Things I'd like to accomplish would be the following
Have a semi inexpensive double din display that I can use for controlling amps.
Improve sound quality
Not overly concerned with steering wheel controls
Maintain factory Bluetooth mic if possible
Route factory backup cam to display on new head unit if possible.
Any suggestions on how to make some or all of my wants happen?
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
subbing to this thread as i have the front right channel cut out as well. I have not pulled the door panel to investigate but have read about the faulty harness inside of the door.
Assuming running all new wire may be the solution? I do have an amp running to these components.
As for your question, i believe they have a full center stack replacement available now to fit the DD you are wanting.
Assuming running all new wire may be the solution? I do have an amp running to these components.
As for your question, i believe they have a full center stack replacement available now to fit the DD you are wanting.
#3
subbing to this thread as i have the front right channel cut out as well. I have not pulled the door panel to investigate but have read about the faulty harness inside of the door.
Assuming running all new wire may be the solution? I do have an amp running to these components.
As for your question, i believe they have a full center stack replacement available now to fit the DD you are wanting.
Assuming running all new wire may be the solution? I do have an amp running to these components.
As for your question, i believe they have a full center stack replacement available now to fit the DD you are wanting.
I'm just not sure which one I'll need.
Ultimately, I'd like to eliminate the factory HU, then run all new wires from an amp to the front channel with a component set replacing the door speaker and the tweeter. I haven't gone that far with a setup since high school. Now I can actually afford to do it right.
#4
i did what you want with the idatalink setup and i am very, very happy. looks stock, performs flawlessly and gives me lots of extra option i didn't have before (but that is mostly related to the pioneer 8200NEX and the extras it has). DESPITE what most reviews and info states it WILL work with the factory mic.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794K15...c&awug=9015344
and need this as well:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794ADS...ce-Module.html
you will retain everything your factory system does, including sync if you want it to, and all steering wheel controls, mic, etc etc. you do have to program the MRR with your choice of aftermarket ddin and the VIN of your truck for it to work but that is pretty easy to do on the idatalink website, and free.
-edit-
i am assuming you have the rear cam display in your mirror. if so you can tap into the signal and connect it to your headunit (as long as it has that feature). the line runs behind the driver's side a-pillar and once tapped it will display on both the mirror and the headunit.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794K15...c&awug=9015344
and need this as well:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794ADS...ce-Module.html
you will retain everything your factory system does, including sync if you want it to, and all steering wheel controls, mic, etc etc. you do have to program the MRR with your choice of aftermarket ddin and the VIN of your truck for it to work but that is pretty easy to do on the idatalink website, and free.
-edit-
i am assuming you have the rear cam display in your mirror. if so you can tap into the signal and connect it to your headunit (as long as it has that feature). the line runs behind the driver's side a-pillar and once tapped it will display on both the mirror and the headunit.
Last edited by nineball; 11-15-2017 at 01:03 PM.