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E-Locker Override Mod?

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Old 08-24-2013, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Grim Reaper

That is the whole idea of this modificaiton ... to stop the PCM from disengaging the E-Locker at 30mph in 2WD and 4HI and 60mph for 4LO.

As well, the speeds I just mentioned will depend on Model and Year. For 2013, those are the speeds the Owner's Manual state for my Ecoboost.

I plan to read & re-read the post, and then I'll probably do the modification.
Correct but if I'm not mistaken, the 13 are still disabling. I've read through this a few times and been subscribed for months awaiting an update.
Old 08-25-2013, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by XFJunkie

But won't the locker disengage at 30?
Mine will disengage. Low range is higher speed I believe as per next post. After 30 a locker is non effective anyways and just helps steer you into the ditch on corners. A malfunctioning rear diff will school you on how crappy fully locked steers. Even my ATV only wants full locked front and rear in low speed mud and that steers poorly as well.
Old 08-25-2013, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Grim Reaper

Have you done any other mods to your truck (CAI, exhaust, tune etc). Or is it bone stock (for now)?
Bone stock other than suspension.
Old 08-25-2013, 01:25 AM
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I want it locked when I'm off in the dirt and the *** is spinning greater than thirty.
Old 08-25-2013, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by XFJunkie
I want it locked when I'm off in the dirt and the *** is spinning greater than thirty.
I've tested this over and over. Locked vs. Spin Control.
There is not a noticeable difference between the two one spinning. If anything non-locked spin control gets off the line quicker than full lock.
This is because on a slippery surface full locked tends to just spin once it breaks traction off the line while spin control moves ahead a bit like a limited slip before locking up completely (in this case spinning both wheels equally)
If you test this out yourself in a controlled test like I have I don't see how anyone thinks they are getting more by being fully locked.
If all a person wants us to spin on the mud go buy a mud bogger truck and weld the rear pinion together.
Every new vehicle has stability control by law, most have traction control too. If you don't care for it buy an older model.
If you have to have a new Ford then you can try the manual switch override that has been done to varying success on this forum.
Read carefully as models, part numbers, installation can all affect a successful mod.
You also may be disabling important features you wanted with mods.
Old 08-25-2013, 10:33 AM
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Then what's the purpose of it staying locked in the raptor too 100.

All this safety **** blows and actually makes it worse on people who can drive in emergency situations. I'd rather be in my track car than trust the computer on some instances. Sometimes powering out of something is better than applying brakes.

The nice thing about my s4 is though if you press the ESP button you get a warning for limited control, hold it for 8 seconds you get a warning **** is in your hands and a different light.

Don't want a bogger, just want this truck to do **** on dirt fields and sandy places it should vs yaw control and every other "save the soccer mom" function kicks in.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:47 AM
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Has any one had warranty issues with doing this mod? Also does any one have a tuner that they are using with this mod? If so what problems have you had?
Old 08-26-2013, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by dcfluid
I've tested this over and over. Locked vs. Spin Control.
There is not a noticeable difference between the two one spinning. If anything non-locked spin control gets off the line quicker than full lock.
This is because on a slippery surface full locked tends to just spin once it breaks traction off the line while spin control moves ahead a bit like a limited slip before locking up completely (in this case spinning both wheels equally)
If you test this out yourself in a controlled test like I have I don't see how anyone thinks they are getting more by being fully locked.
If all a person wants us to spin on the mud go buy a mud bogger truck and weld the rear pinion together.
Every new vehicle has stability control by law, most have traction control too. If you don't care for it buy an older model.
If you have to have a new Ford then you can try the manual switch override that has been done to varying success on this forum.
Read carefully as models, part numbers, installation can all affect a successful mod.
You also may be disabling important features you wanted with mods.
What kind of testing have you done? Last time I checked spinning 2 wheels at once no matter what surface your on will get you going faster. Every time I've had the wheel spin it just cuts the power it doesn't send power to the other wheel so the E-locker over ride is a good MOD after the warranty runs out.
Old 08-28-2013, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 03Scott

What kind of testing have you done? Last time I checked spinning 2 wheels at once no matter what surface your on will get you going faster. Every time I've had the wheel spin it just cuts the power it doesn't send power to the other wheel so the E-locker over ride is a good MOD after the warranty runs out.
Sorry for the late reply but I was out of the country on vacation.
My testing goes back to before I bought my truck as I was unsure as to how well the open diff locker would work based on the comments of 2010 FX4 owners. My father in law has a 2010 locker and brothers have limited slip 2010s. I was able to compare them with several 2011 FX4s before mine was delivered, and all compared to my 2008 GMC HD limited slip.
Living up north enabled me to do repeated testing side by side on all types of surfaces, icy, snowy, mud, dirt, sand, pavement etc. With traction and stability control turned off it becomes apparent that the rule that a spinning tire gets you going slower than one that is still grabbing traction. Just try to go fast on ice by spinning to understand this.
So when both rear wheels are spinning you get less traction moving forward than not spinning. Without the locker engaged the one wheel spin control feature (which doesn't cut power, just brakes the spinning wheel to transfer traction to the other side) acts like a limited slip and transfers power to the wheel with more traction. Off the line this translates to a bit more forward motion before both wheels spin equally and this is what gets it moving better than full locked. This is only true for the first few feet of travel.
This spinout on take off effect is most clearly demonstrated on ice or slippery surfaces. Locked rear tends to spin and kick out sideways off the line.
Once you have both wheels spinning it is all the same regardless of rear end type of coarse.
When not spinning locked is far superior, rock climbing, pulling, high traction surfaces, etc. Much harder to actually start a wheel to spin when locked.
Now if you turn the traction control nannies back on the story gets longer.....
Watch my YouTube videos (2) for a small demonstration of unlocked rear performance. Just search for "dcfluid"
Mine is a 2011 and I changed out the switch and TCM for 2011 Raptor parts. The 2013s don't need the mod as they come stock like mine. No warranty issues for this change.
The Easter egg I found in this testing was in 4 wheel drive the spin control works on the front axle as well, giving a limited slip performance on the front. Traction in this truck kills my GMC big time.
Old 08-31-2013, 08:21 PM
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Default 2wd locker

is it possible to lock up the diff on a 2011 f150 2wd with the factory parts


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