Drivers side power door lock issue..
11-20-2014, 07:10 PM
#41
Ford Customer Service
Any update on these?
Now my 2010 SCrew (44k miles) is acting up. First the passenger rear lock quit - I figured it was an actuator. Now none of them work.
The fob will show the lights flash though, so I know that's working. The manual door buttons (both driver and passenger door) don't work (lock or unlock). Essentially all 4 doors must be locked/unlocked by hand now. Quite irritating!
-Matt
Now my 2010 SCrew (44k miles) is acting up. First the passenger rear lock quit - I figured it was an actuator. Now none of them work.
The fob will show the lights flash though, so I know that's working. The manual door buttons (both driver and passenger door) don't work (lock or unlock). Essentially all 4 doors must be locked/unlocked by hand now. Quite irritating!
-Matt
Brittany
11-21-2014, 11:10 AM
#42
I'm having a similar issue.
Driver's power door lock seems inop. In addition the fobs seem inop as well even though batteries have been replaced. All doors except driver's door will lock/unlock with the switch, and with the keypad. The drivers door will only lock if I depress the lock plunger, and unlock via the inside handle, or the key.
I'm headed to the Dealer next week...
Driver's power door lock seems inop. In addition the fobs seem inop as well even though batteries have been replaced. All doors except driver's door will lock/unlock with the switch, and with the keypad. The drivers door will only lock if I depress the lock plunger, and unlock via the inside handle, or the key.
I'm headed to the Dealer next week...
11-21-2014, 07:36 PM
#43
Senior Member
I feel kinda silly now... my rear passenger side is definitely not working. However, I now believe that this solenoid blew the main 20A fuse (#17, passenger floor panel). I replaced the fuse and now the other 3 locks work again.
Will still go in for the service though, since I don't think I'll have time to replace the door solenoid.
Also need to get the dealer's opinion on the bubbling paint on my hood!
I thought Ford would have figured out how to paint aluminum after all this time... but my hood says otherwise!
Needless to say I'm not expecting much help from the dealer on this one.
Will still go in for the service though, since I don't think I'll have time to replace the door solenoid.
Also need to get the dealer's opinion on the bubbling paint on my hood!
I thought Ford would have figured out how to paint aluminum after all this time... but my hood says otherwise!
Needless to say I'm not expecting much help from the dealer on this one.
11-22-2014, 09:10 AM
#45
Senior Member
While I was in the driver's side door yesterday checking out the lock wiring, I did look at these wires. The dealer had previously fixed the notorious "speaker crackle" issue in that door and it looked like the bundle had been monkeyed with, electrical tape and such. If the fuse blows again (likely, right?) I'll have to dig into it more. The other 3 doors haven't been messed with, so I didn't initially think those were the issue. But you're right - if the fuse keeps blowing I'm going to have to dig some more.
Thanks for the tip!
-Matt
Thanks for the tip!
-Matt
01-24-2015, 04:49 PM
#46
Senior Member
OK - finally getting around to this. About 5 of the wires in the wiring bundle between the door and the b-pillar were busted. The shortest one is like 3mm long protuding out of the connector.
Tasca Ford Parts tells me this wiring harness isn't available either! Lovely.
This, without a doubt, is a seriously ****ty design by Ford. It'll really **** me off is this harness isn't available.
Can't figure out how to post pictures in a reply, but here's a link to the album I uploaded.
https://www.f150forum.com/g/album/2887923
Tasca Ford Parts tells me this wiring harness isn't available either! Lovely.
This, without a doubt, is a seriously ****ty design by Ford. It'll really **** me off is this harness isn't available.
Can't figure out how to post pictures in a reply, but here's a link to the album I uploaded.
https://www.f150forum.com/g/album/2887923
01-31-2015, 06:17 PM
#47
Senior Member
My drivers door lock stopped working this morning. Can only lock/unlock manually, all other door locks work fine. I'm suspecting broken wires. I'm going to wait until spring to tear into it. 
My brothers Ram did the exact same thing. We ended up just cutting all the wires and splicing in 2-3" of additional wire to add some length and hopefully reduce the binding. Honestly, we never even considered replacing the harness. That probably would haven been easier 
OK - finally getting around to this. About 5 of the wires in the wiring bundle between the door and the b-pillar were busted. The shortest one is like 3mm long protuding out of the connector.
Tasca Ford Parts tells me this wiring harness isn't available either! Lovely.
This, without a doubt, is a seriously ****ty design by Ford. It'll really **** me off is this harness isn't available.
Can't figure out how to post pictures in a reply, but here's a link to the album I uploaded.
https://www.f150forum.com/g/album/2887923#
Tasca Ford Parts tells me this wiring harness isn't available either! Lovely.
This, without a doubt, is a seriously ****ty design by Ford. It'll really **** me off is this harness isn't available.
Can't figure out how to post pictures in a reply, but here's a link to the album I uploaded.
https://www.f150forum.com/g/album/2887923#
02-02-2015, 01:24 PM
#49
Senior Member
I ended up going down to my local dealer and found the part. I guess the numbers on the wiring harness were engineering numbers and not part numbers.
The existing engineering number didn't cross reference with a part number, which likely explains why Tasca couldn't find it.
My local dealer searched using the VIN and was able to find the new part # and order the whole harness, which listed for around $72.
You can find them online for cheaper... 55-65 though.
The harness was easy to change.
Also, I think I figured out that the wire harness is not supposed to flex between the doors. My rear door harness was kinked like a taco. Looking at the new harness, it looks like the wire that goes between the door and the b-pillar (mine was the back door) is supposed to "push" into the door, if that makes sense.
Anyway, swapping the harness was pretty easy to do. I'd go that route if your wires are in rough shape. Splicing all of the wires together would have been doable, but probably more painful than swapping harnesses.
Good luck and let me know if you want more info,
-Matt
The existing engineering number didn't cross reference with a part number, which likely explains why Tasca couldn't find it.
My local dealer searched using the VIN and was able to find the new part # and order the whole harness, which listed for around $72.
You can find them online for cheaper... 55-65 though.
The harness was easy to change.
Also, I think I figured out that the wire harness is not supposed to flex between the doors. My rear door harness was kinked like a taco. Looking at the new harness, it looks like the wire that goes between the door and the b-pillar (mine was the back door) is supposed to "push" into the door, if that makes sense.
Anyway, swapping the harness was pretty easy to do. I'd go that route if your wires are in rough shape. Splicing all of the wires together would have been doable, but probably more painful than swapping harnesses.
Good luck and let me know if you want more info,
-Matt