Drilled and Slotted, Slotted Or Nothing
#1
Old Fart
Thread Starter
Drilled and Slotted, Slotted Or Nothing
2013 F150 SCab 6.5 bed 4X2 6.2 that actually works for a living.
I bought the truck used with 42,000 miles and the brakes were switched over to Drilled and Slotted all around. I know the pads were done since they were not Ford pads on the front when the first set wore out and I put a set on until I could get a set of rotors for the front. These are not Power Stops and they like all the no name I have seen are cracked between the holes and have been discolored since I got the truck.
Power Stop has the Drilled and Slotted Z36 and the Evolution that are an OEM replacement.
Stop Tech has just Slotted but not a lot of people I know even know of these.
The truck tows an up to 4000 Pound brake-less trailer at times although it is normally only 2500 pounds or less as well as carrying 400-1500 pounds in the bed.
Now like I said I have seen a lot of cheap cross drilled rotors with the cracks like on mine. Are the Power Stops the same way with the cracking or do they seem to last.
Like I said I have not heard a lot about the Stop Tech but figured more on here might have.
Also the only reason I am asking is Power Stops are still lower than going OEM and everyone seems to point to them when asked about brakes.
I bought the truck used with 42,000 miles and the brakes were switched over to Drilled and Slotted all around. I know the pads were done since they were not Ford pads on the front when the first set wore out and I put a set on until I could get a set of rotors for the front. These are not Power Stops and they like all the no name I have seen are cracked between the holes and have been discolored since I got the truck.
Power Stop has the Drilled and Slotted Z36 and the Evolution that are an OEM replacement.
Stop Tech has just Slotted but not a lot of people I know even know of these.
The truck tows an up to 4000 Pound brake-less trailer at times although it is normally only 2500 pounds or less as well as carrying 400-1500 pounds in the bed.
Now like I said I have seen a lot of cheap cross drilled rotors with the cracks like on mine. Are the Power Stops the same way with the cracking or do they seem to last.
Like I said I have not heard a lot about the Stop Tech but figured more on here might have.
Also the only reason I am asking is Power Stops are still lower than going OEM and everyone seems to point to them when asked about brakes.
#2
Senior Member
Drilled and slotted are for looks. The Powerstops are popular, you know, like Lady Gaga.
I vote nothing. Bought solid rotors just a couple weeks ago.
But the chamfered holes in the powerstops and other quality drilled rotors should help prevent the cracking.
I vote nothing. Bought solid rotors just a couple weeks ago.
But the chamfered holes in the powerstops and other quality drilled rotors should help prevent the cracking.
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Siber Express (10-01-2017)
#3
Senior Member
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Siber Express (10-01-2017)
#4
On most any street car/truck I would do solid rotor. Number one reason serviceability.
I've got 37k miles on my Power Stop slotted/drilled rotors and pads. No signs of cracking or unusual wear.
I have drilled and slotted rotors on two vehicles and unable to find anyone in the area within reason that can turn a drilled and or slotted rotors.
Bought new Power Stop slotted/drilled rotors with Bremo pads for a Mini Cooper S. Had an issue squeal with ambient temperatures in the 50 to 75 degree range. Unsuccessful on finding anyone to turn the rotors. After my third attempt with brake cleaner, metal brushes, and sand paper and more brake quiet on the pad backings, I might have solved the problem.
I've got 37k miles on my Power Stop slotted/drilled rotors and pads. No signs of cracking or unusual wear.
I have drilled and slotted rotors on two vehicles and unable to find anyone in the area within reason that can turn a drilled and or slotted rotors.
Bought new Power Stop slotted/drilled rotors with Bremo pads for a Mini Cooper S. Had an issue squeal with ambient temperatures in the 50 to 75 degree range. Unsuccessful on finding anyone to turn the rotors. After my third attempt with brake cleaner, metal brushes, and sand paper and more brake quiet on the pad backings, I might have solved the problem.
The following users liked this post:
Siber Express (10-01-2017)
#5
Old Fart
Thread Starter
On most any street car/truck I would do solid rotor. Number one reason serviceability.
I've got 37k miles on my Power Stop slotted/drilled rotors and pads. No signs of cracking or unusual wear.
I have drilled and slotted rotors on two vehicles and unable to find anyone in the area within reason that can turn a drilled and or slotted rotors.
Bought new Power Stop slotted/drilled rotors with Bremo pads for a Mini Cooper S. Had an issue squeal with ambient temperatures in the 50 to 75 degree range. Unsuccessful on finding anyone to turn the rotors. After my third attempt with brake cleaner, metal brushes, and sand paper and more brake quiet on the pad backings, I might have solved the problem.
I've got 37k miles on my Power Stop slotted/drilled rotors and pads. No signs of cracking or unusual wear.
I have drilled and slotted rotors on two vehicles and unable to find anyone in the area within reason that can turn a drilled and or slotted rotors.
Bought new Power Stop slotted/drilled rotors with Bremo pads for a Mini Cooper S. Had an issue squeal with ambient temperatures in the 50 to 75 degree range. Unsuccessful on finding anyone to turn the rotors. After my third attempt with brake cleaner, metal brushes, and sand paper and more brake quiet on the pad backings, I might have solved the problem.
#6
Senior Member
I run the power stop drilled and slotted, and just put a stop tech drilled and slotted on the drivers side front. I had an issue with the drivers side caliper sticking and wore out two sets of inner pads and scuffed the power stop rotor I had on that side. It was pretty grooved. Didn't want to put a new set of pads up against it, and local shop couldn't get to the rotor to turn it for a few days. Since I use Rock Auto, and couldn't buy just one rotor like I had (had to buy two), I bought a stop tech to go on that side. Rotor looked good to me, couldn't tell it from the power stop really.
I have had no problem with the rotors cracking or checking. I've had them on there now for 50k. I have 2012 eco screw with 193k miles on it.
I have had no problem with the rotors cracking or checking. I've had them on there now for 50k. I have 2012 eco screw with 193k miles on it.
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#8
Senior Member
I put on front slotted StopTech rotors and their pads. Braking is much better than stock, only got one turn from the factory rotors (warranty) so not really worried if they can be turned, rather have the improved braking getting the gasses out.
#9
I highly doubt the slotted rotors made the stopping any better. I'd bet 99.99% of any difference is the new pads. Pad material makes a huge impact on all aspects of braking.
Modern pads do not outgas. Maybe if you were going 10/10's and you had some crappy pads- then MAYBE, but a good set of pads during normal everyday driving do not outgas.
Modern pads do not outgas. Maybe if you were going 10/10's and you had some crappy pads- then MAYBE, but a good set of pads during normal everyday driving do not outgas.
#10
Senior Member
I highly doubt the slotted rotors made the stopping any better. I'd bet 99.99% of any difference is the new pads. Pad material makes a huge impact on all aspects of braking.
Modern pads do not outgas. Maybe if you were going 10/10's and you had some crappy pads- then MAYBE, but a good set of pads during normal everyday driving do not outgas.
Modern pads do not outgas. Maybe if you were going 10/10's and you had some crappy pads- then MAYBE, but a good set of pads during normal everyday driving do not outgas.