Compressor cycling fix
#1112
#1113
Senior Member
#1114
What's the best output temp that will not freeze anything up?
#1115
Senior Member
#1116
#1118
Member
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I installed my ~500K Pot so that dialing it counter-clockwise causes the Cab Temp to also be lower. Intuitive. Like a Volume Control. I usually dial it down to about ~1/2 value, or ~250K Ohms at the maximum reduced setting. Sometimes not that far. Depending on outside Temp; whether or not I'm recirculating Cab Air; initial Cab Heat Load; and so on, it's gotten to where I can hit the cooling sweet spot w/o risk of freezing-related damage. Practice makes perfect.
With respect to the questions above, I always fully turn up this Pot [CW] when parking. In effect, this takes it out of the circuit. This also means I don't need to 'do' anything in cold Colorado Winters. My Pot Mod becomes electrically invisible when turned fully clock-wise. Further, I don't use Recirc Air in the Cab unless absolutely necessary for Cab cool-down. Avoid possible damage. Avoid excess A/C noise.
With my 2014 F-150 Extended Warranty about to expire w/o being used, I plan to solder in this Pot at the end of the ~3' fine Wires it's on, and mount it discretely in the lower Dash within easy reach. I want to find some small, campy, antique Radio **** for the Pot Shaft. 'Tis just the way we roll...
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I installed my ~500K Pot so that dialing it counter-clockwise causes the Cab Temp to also be lower. Intuitive. Like a Volume Control. I usually dial it down to about ~1/2 value, or ~250K Ohms at the maximum reduced setting. Sometimes not that far. Depending on outside Temp; whether or not I'm recirculating Cab Air; initial Cab Heat Load; and so on, it's gotten to where I can hit the cooling sweet spot w/o risk of freezing-related damage. Practice makes perfect.
With respect to the questions above, I always fully turn up this Pot [CW] when parking. In effect, this takes it out of the circuit. This also means I don't need to 'do' anything in cold Colorado Winters. My Pot Mod becomes electrically invisible when turned fully clock-wise. Further, I don't use Recirc Air in the Cab unless absolutely necessary for Cab cool-down. Avoid possible damage. Avoid excess A/C noise.
With my 2014 F-150 Extended Warranty about to expire w/o being used, I plan to solder in this Pot at the end of the ~3' fine Wires it's on, and mount it discretely in the lower Dash within easy reach. I want to find some small, campy, antique Radio **** for the Pot Shaft. 'Tis just the way we roll...
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Last edited by Engineer Guy; 08-27-2017 at 12:55 PM.
#1119
Senior Member
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I installed my ~500K Pot so that dialing it counter-clockwise causes the Cab Temp to also be lower. Intuitive. Like a Volume Control. I usually dial it down to about ~1/2 value, or ~250K Ohms at the maximum reduced setting. Sometimes not that far. Depending on outside Temp; whether or not I'm recirculating Cab Air; initial Cab Heat Load; and so on, it's gotten to where I can hit the cooling sweet spot w/o risk of freezing-related damage. Practice makes perfect.
With respect to the questions above, I always fully turn up this Pot [CW] when parking. In effect, this takes it out of the circuit. This also means I don't need to 'do' anything in cold Colorado Winters. My Pot Mod becomes electrically invisible when turned fully clock-wise. Further, I don't use Recirc Air in the Cab unless absolutely necessary for Cab cool-down. Avoid possible damage. Avoid excess A/C noise.
With my 2014 F-150 Extended Warranty about to expire w/o being used, I plan to solder in this Pot at the end of the ~3' fine Wires it's on, and mount it discretely in the lower Dash within easy reach. I want to find some small, campy, antique Radio **** for the Pot Shaft. 'Tis just the way we roll...
.
I installed my ~500K Pot so that dialing it counter-clockwise causes the Cab Temp to also be lower. Intuitive. Like a Volume Control. I usually dial it down to about ~1/2 value, or ~250K Ohms at the maximum reduced setting. Sometimes not that far. Depending on outside Temp; whether or not I'm recirculating Cab Air; initial Cab Heat Load; and so on, it's gotten to where I can hit the cooling sweet spot w/o risk of freezing-related damage. Practice makes perfect.
With respect to the questions above, I always fully turn up this Pot [CW] when parking. In effect, this takes it out of the circuit. This also means I don't need to 'do' anything in cold Colorado Winters. My Pot Mod becomes electrically invisible when turned fully clock-wise. Further, I don't use Recirc Air in the Cab unless absolutely necessary for Cab cool-down. Avoid possible damage. Avoid excess A/C noise.
With my 2014 F-150 Extended Warranty about to expire w/o being used, I plan to solder in this Pot at the end of the ~3' fine Wires it's on, and mount it discretely in the lower Dash within easy reach. I want to find some small, campy, antique Radio **** for the Pot Shaft. 'Tis just the way we roll...
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#1120
Hey folks! Any idea which wires to place the resistor leads on in a 3-wire configuration??
This is on a 2006 Navigator by the way. I've replaced my compressor, condenser, accumulator, both evaporators, both expansion valves, flushed the lines, re-filled with the exact amount of PAG oil and refrigerant, replaced all blend door actuators, replaced the blower motor resistor and temperature sensor, replaced the heater valve... but the A/C will never give an outlet temp under 48 degrees. Unfortunately I didn't hear about this mod until I invested a whole lot of money and time on trying to get the system to perform better, and I've now replaced literally every single component of my A/C system as of last year.
I can't install a resistor on the 2-wire temp sensor-side of the wiring because there's no room in the connector for it. The connector picture has room to install the resistor with d-sub pins, but there are 3 wires on that connector and I've been unable to determine which 2 wires of those 3 are the ones I need to run the resistor across. I've watched the compressor cycle off quite a bit with the proper R134A fill (I used the ForScan app to display live data while driving the truck around), so I'm really hoping that as it warms up this year I can remedy this problem. Sitting in traffic on a 85 degree day usually results in 62 degree and warmer outlet temperatures, and that just doesn't cut it. Thanks everyone!
-Andrew
This is on a 2006 Navigator by the way. I've replaced my compressor, condenser, accumulator, both evaporators, both expansion valves, flushed the lines, re-filled with the exact amount of PAG oil and refrigerant, replaced all blend door actuators, replaced the blower motor resistor and temperature sensor, replaced the heater valve... but the A/C will never give an outlet temp under 48 degrees. Unfortunately I didn't hear about this mod until I invested a whole lot of money and time on trying to get the system to perform better, and I've now replaced literally every single component of my A/C system as of last year.
I can't install a resistor on the 2-wire temp sensor-side of the wiring because there's no room in the connector for it. The connector picture has room to install the resistor with d-sub pins, but there are 3 wires on that connector and I've been unable to determine which 2 wires of those 3 are the ones I need to run the resistor across. I've watched the compressor cycle off quite a bit with the proper R134A fill (I used the ForScan app to display live data while driving the truck around), so I'm really hoping that as it warms up this year I can remedy this problem. Sitting in traffic on a 85 degree day usually results in 62 degree and warmer outlet temperatures, and that just doesn't cut it. Thanks everyone!
-Andrew