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Compressor cycling fix

Old 08-26-2017, 02:09 AM
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At 32 degF outlet air, the coil will freeze up. Then you risk killing the compressor.
Old 08-26-2017, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Feathermerchant
At 32 degF outlet air, the coil will freeze up. Then you risk killing the compressor.
Thanks for the heads up! I'll have to dial it back a little.
Old 08-26-2017, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Daniejw
Thanks for the heads try up! I'll have to dial it back a little.
Try 365.
Old 08-26-2017, 04:37 PM
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What's the best output temp that will not freeze anything up?
Old 08-26-2017, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Daniejw
What's the best output temp that will not freeze anything up?
The coil is suppose to operate between 36 and 38 degrees. If you can get a low point on the cycle swing at 39 or even 40, you will be in heaven!
Old 08-26-2017, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Daniejw
Thanks!

Is there any issues with winter weather and usuing the defroster? Should I remove the pot for the winter?
I run mine all year, I do get to elevations and snow occasionally. Haven't noticed any issues.
Old 08-27-2017, 12:02 AM
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If it is set warm enough, you should have no problems year round.
Old 08-27-2017, 12:16 PM
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.
I installed my ~500K Pot so that dialing it counter-clockwise causes the Cab Temp to also be lower. Intuitive. Like a Volume Control. I usually dial it down to about ~1/2 value, or ~250K Ohms at the maximum reduced setting. Sometimes not that far. Depending on outside Temp; whether or not I'm recirculating Cab Air; initial Cab Heat Load; and so on, it's gotten to where I can hit the cooling sweet spot w/o risk of freezing-related damage. Practice makes perfect.

With respect to the questions above, I always fully turn up this Pot [CW] when parking. In effect, this takes it out of the circuit. This also means I don't need to 'do' anything in cold Colorado Winters. My Pot Mod becomes electrically invisible when turned fully clock-wise. Further, I don't use Recirc Air in the Cab unless absolutely necessary for Cab cool-down. Avoid possible damage. Avoid excess A/C noise.

With my 2014 F-150 Extended Warranty about to expire w/o being used, I plan to solder in this Pot at the end of the ~3' fine Wires it's on, and mount it discretely in the lower Dash within easy reach. I want to find some small, campy, antique Radio **** for the Pot Shaft. 'Tis just the way we roll...
.

Last edited by Engineer Guy; 08-27-2017 at 12:55 PM.
Old 08-31-2017, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Engineer Guy
.
I installed my ~500K Pot so that dialing it counter-clockwise causes the Cab Temp to also be lower. Intuitive. Like a Volume Control. I usually dial it down to about ~1/2 value, or ~250K Ohms at the maximum reduced setting. Sometimes not that far. Depending on outside Temp; whether or not I'm recirculating Cab Air; initial Cab Heat Load; and so on, it's gotten to where I can hit the cooling sweet spot w/o risk of freezing-related damage. Practice makes perfect.

With respect to the questions above, I always fully turn up this Pot [CW] when parking. In effect, this takes it out of the circuit. This also means I don't need to 'do' anything in cold Colorado Winters. My Pot Mod becomes electrically invisible when turned fully clock-wise. Further, I don't use Recirc Air in the Cab unless absolutely necessary for Cab cool-down. Avoid possible damage. Avoid excess A/C noise.

With my 2014 F-150 Extended Warranty about to expire w/o being used, I plan to solder in this Pot at the end of the ~3' fine Wires it's on, and mount it discretely in the lower Dash within easy reach. I want to find some small, campy, antique Radio **** for the Pot Shaft. 'Tis just the way we roll...
.
Excellent Tip!
Old 04-19-2018, 07:36 PM
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Hey folks! Any idea which wires to place the resistor leads on in a 3-wire configuration??



This is on a 2006 Navigator by the way. I've replaced my compressor, condenser, accumulator, both evaporators, both expansion valves, flushed the lines, re-filled with the exact amount of PAG oil and refrigerant, replaced all blend door actuators, replaced the blower motor resistor and temperature sensor, replaced the heater valve... but the A/C will never give an outlet temp under 48 degrees. Unfortunately I didn't hear about this mod until I invested a whole lot of money and time on trying to get the system to perform better, and I've now replaced literally every single component of my A/C system as of last year.

I can't install a resistor on the 2-wire temp sensor-side of the wiring because there's no room in the connector for it. The connector picture has room to install the resistor with d-sub pins, but there are 3 wires on that connector and I've been unable to determine which 2 wires of those 3 are the ones I need to run the resistor across. I've watched the compressor cycle off quite a bit with the proper R134A fill (I used the ForScan app to display live data while driving the truck around), so I'm really hoping that as it warms up this year I can remedy this problem. Sitting in traffic on a 85 degree day usually results in 62 degree and warmer outlet temperatures, and that just doesn't cut it. Thanks everyone!

-Andrew

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