digitaltrucker

1.) remove the plug that connects to the fixed female adapter on the box


2.) take a thin flat blade screw driver and slide under the female plug


3.) lift the plug while holding down the white tang, the plug should slide out


or you can slide the flat blade under the female plug, twist it and the whole plug should pop out with the white tang still attached.

bryced1

Got it out! Thanks!

But I've tried a 470k, a 300k, and a 680k with no changes at all. Drove around with each with ac on low. Guess it's back to the drawing board. Or sell the truck. Can't not have AC down here in SC.

digitaltrucker

You should be seeing something change. Make sure the 470K is inserted across the plug, then disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. Then use the truck for several days and let it set in.

digitaltrucker

Hello everyone! Its that time again! Interesting story. From another forum a guy was using a 360K resistor, so a friend decided to give this a go on his poor performing 13.

First day all seemed well! The next day, the unit started to drop in temp below 30 degrees. He immediately turned the system off for a minute or so and then back on only to find hot air blowing! (Yes ac button was on.) Off again and back on and cool air again. The next day, hot air again so he removed the resistor and all returned to as it was before using the resistor.

Never ceases to amaze me how these trucks are so different when it comes to this mod!

Hey mod(s) can we make this a sticky?

digitaltrucker

"Great thread, thank you!!! I'll add my quick findings:

Using the data from the other site it looks dead on: plugged a meter into the sensor when my truck was at its coldest (48 degrees). Unplugging the two connectors and probed toward the sensor and it was approximately 59K ohm (and rising quickly). This was on my 2011 F150. Had some help from a friend who plotted the resistance from the numbers over on the other site and found it was a non linear curve. Furthermore he calculated I needed 282K ohm to hit 40 degrees. The 500K Potentiometer I bought from Radio Shack for ~ $3 has detents so I found the closest detent to 282K and it was 272K ohm.

You really do need to drive around for a solid 15 minutes to let the truck get to its COLDEST. I messed that up and was turning the pot and going for short drives. After learning it was a solid 15 minutes of driving I have it dropping to 36-37 degrees as well. Nice!!

THX!

Z7What

Although I am somewhat happy with the AC output now that I have a resistor installed I still find on long trips the temps slowly get back to where the temps were before the resistor. If I stop and shut the truck off and crank back up it starts the cycle all over again.

All Ford needs to do is a simple reflash of the HVAC system and it would fix all these issues. Is even be willing to pay them $100 and lose a MPG to have it work correctly without a resistor.

Ford LISTEN to us!! For this reason alone is the reason why my wife's new car isn't a Ford, and I bleed Ford Blue. The Ford I wanted to get her had cold A/C but after the way my A/C issue was handled was unprofessional and for that reason 🖕�
Wayne

3kushn

Is the only way to figure out the resistance needed by trial and error?

Sorry the thread is too long and searching isn't working on this.

digitaltrucker

Yes, look at the last page or so and see what folks have settled in at.

Feathermerchant

Well at least part of the issue of what resistance to use is what constitutes acceptable air conditioning. That is very subjective. Some think it should freeze you out. Some like it the way it is. I added a very conservative resistor (small change) and to me it is fine. Some have frozen their evaporators trying to get it cold.

RLXXI

As I've said all along, it's a programming issue and Ford is NOT going to reverse it. Here's what these trucks A/C can do.



And no that's not a hazy picture, it's fog rolling out of my vents when I controlled the a/c compressor on time.
.