Completed JL Audio Stereo Install in a Supercrew w/ Sliding Rear Window
01-31-2013, 01:58 PM
#22
Beer Gut Extraordinaire
F**k i want to do this so bad. Hate my stock sony system...I just don't have the ***** or money to do it myself. Splicing the factory amp wiring makes me nervous. All that wiring is really overwhelming lol!
01-31-2013, 02:21 PM
#23
Awesome, Clean build man! Love your armp Rack.
I am doing mine in pieces, as weather permits. I've got 2 sets of Infinity Reference speakers, door adapters, dynamat and a panel removal kit on the way.
I've done plenty of audio installs.. on 10+ year old vehicles! Going to be pretty nerve racking to take the door panels off, but I cant pay someone to do that.
I am kind of on the fence about re-using factory speaker wiring with an amped signal... Did you run all new wires to your door speakers?
Also, do you find dynamating the doors made a big difference? I find my truck is pretty damn quiet already, but who knows what would rattle with some bass.
-Colby
I am doing mine in pieces, as weather permits. I've got 2 sets of Infinity Reference speakers, door adapters, dynamat and a panel removal kit on the way.
I've done plenty of audio installs.. on 10+ year old vehicles! Going to be pretty nerve racking to take the door panels off, but I cant pay someone to do that.
I am kind of on the fence about re-using factory speaker wiring with an amped signal... Did you run all new wires to your door speakers?
Also, do you find dynamating the doors made a big difference? I find my truck is pretty damn quiet already, but who knows what would rattle with some bass.
-Colby
07-09-2013, 08:48 AM
#26
hey I know im jumping in on this a little bit late, but I have a question. I have the regular factory stereo and no sony. I have upgraded to an avic z130bt and kappa 6829cf door speakers. I want to put in an amp but I am wondering if I will have to upgrade the factory speaker wire. Has anyone done this yet? How much power (RMS) can I run through the factory speaker wire without distortion and/or failure. Let me know, thanks.
07-09-2013, 11:17 AM
#27
I did, and i ran all new wires just to be safe, paid $100 for new wires ran, aoemfrd24 and amp under pass. Seat installed.
You will need the aoem frd 24 from PAC, its around $40-50 allows you to easily add a speaker (not sub) amp to a non sync radio as far as the capabilities of the factory wire not sure man, tell me what gauge it is and theres a formula we use at school to figure it out
You will need the aoem frd 24 from PAC, its around $40-50 allows you to easily add a speaker (not sub) amp to a non sync radio as far as the capabilities of the factory wire not sure man, tell me what gauge it is and theres a formula we use at school to figure it out
07-09-2013, 12:29 PM
#28
I am not sure on the gauge of the factory wire. I am wanting to use an amp that will push between 50-100 watts RMS. I know using an aftermarket speaker wire will produce better sound, response, and a better overall listening experience, but I don't want to go through the headache of pulling new wires.
Is it hard to get the new wire to pass through to the door? I don't want to drill any holes etc. That's why im trying to figure out if it is worth the trouble or not.
Also, I saw you installed your amp under the passenger seat. I just saw something from kicker (Powergate or something like that), and the amp actually mounts right under the steering wheel just to the right of the emergency brake. It was pretty sweet and might work well with other four channel amps.
Is it hard to get the new wire to pass through to the door? I don't want to drill any holes etc. That's why im trying to figure out if it is worth the trouble or not.
Also, I saw you installed your amp under the passenger seat. I just saw something from kicker (Powergate or something like that), and the amp actually mounts right under the steering wheel just to the right of the emergency brake. It was pretty sweet and might work well with other four channel amps.
07-09-2013, 10:02 PM
#30
Senior Member
Thanks for the kind words brotha! Certainly do need some more powa! Good thing I got a hell of a connection for these trucks, right!
The Clean Sweep won't give you more power to the speakers, it will flatten out the equalization from the head unit, therefore giving you a cleaner signal to amplify.
I did my amp install and clean sweep at the same time, so I didn't have a before and after to compare. However, I'm certain that the clean sweep has a lot to do with the clarity of my sound.
Sweet build Grant! Congrats! You'll be thumpin and bumpin in no time!
The Clean Sweep, as I mentioned above is to clean up the signal coming from the HU before it gets amplified. It removes all factory equalization.
For the factory head unit, I believe you want to get a Metra 5520 harness to have cleaner wiring, and almost plug and play install.
This thread should be helpful for you...
http://www.f150online.com/forums/spe...011-screw.html
He used an LC6i as opposed to the Clean Sweep but the idea is the same. Just a different component.
The signal summing interface is helpful in summing two channels into one. For example, driver's tweeter and driver's door speaker being summed into one channel.
You don't NEED the SSI, but a Clean Sweep, MS8, LC6i, etc...will be the proper way to install your setup, without cutting any corners.
Good luck on the build man!
http://bit.ly/VJYMmY
Hahahaha!
It's real simple man! I just use my thumb.
Just bought the 4 coaxials planning on just upgrading the speakers. I bought them before researching.
No, the factory tweeters are not connected at this point. When I installed the system, I ran new tweeter wires, and I pre-wired them to the clean sweep and amp, so I just need to mount crossovers on the back and swap out the doors and tweeters for a component setup.
I decided on going with a component setup after I was halfway into the build. No big deal.
This way I can see the difference made in switching to components.
In the meantime, I'm very happy. Highs are incredibly precise and high now, but the component will give me better mid range.
The Clean Sweep won't give you more power to the speakers, it will flatten out the equalization from the head unit, therefore giving you a cleaner signal to amplify.
I did my amp install and clean sweep at the same time, so I didn't have a before and after to compare. However, I'm certain that the clean sweep has a lot to do with the clarity of my sound.
Sweet build Grant! Congrats! You'll be thumpin and bumpin in no time!
The Clean Sweep, as I mentioned above is to clean up the signal coming from the HU before it gets amplified. It removes all factory equalization.
For the factory head unit, I believe you want to get a Metra 5520 harness to have cleaner wiring, and almost plug and play install.
This thread should be helpful for you...
http://www.f150online.com/forums/spe...011-screw.html
He used an LC6i as opposed to the Clean Sweep but the idea is the same. Just a different component.
The signal summing interface is helpful in summing two channels into one. For example, driver's tweeter and driver's door speaker being summed into one channel.
You don't NEED the SSI, but a Clean Sweep, MS8, LC6i, etc...will be the proper way to install your setup, without cutting any corners.
Good luck on the build man!
http://bit.ly/VJYMmY
Hahahaha!
It's real simple man! I just use my thumb.
Just bought the 4 coaxials planning on just upgrading the speakers. I bought them before researching.
No, the factory tweeters are not connected at this point. When I installed the system, I ran new tweeter wires, and I pre-wired them to the clean sweep and amp, so I just need to mount crossovers on the back and swap out the doors and tweeters for a component setup.
I decided on going with a component setup after I was halfway into the build. No big deal.
This way I can see the difference made in switching to components.
In the meantime, I'm very happy. Highs are incredibly precise and high now, but the component will give me better mid range.
Hi Nick,
well I love my set up!
we changed a few things from what the salse guy sold me and went and added few other items not sure what they were but he took some back and added a few better ones,
then we dynamatted the back of the door panels and the doors and headliner was done when they added my moon roof.....
the sound is nice and clear with the stock deck.and the louder I go the better it gets...LOL
I addeda MTX form fitted sub box fiberglass, and 12" MTX
same as the other one but better speaker....and box......
forgot to tell you, not that it mattered and this post came up so thought id add it...
thanks for the info from before!! my Truck Rocks Now...lol
Grant