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COMPLETE Upfitter switch install into 2013 F150 Platinum

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COMPLETE Upfitter switch install into 2013 F150 Platinum

 
Old 02-02-2015, 11:11 PM
  #11  
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Now a little bit of info I discovered during my research. Ford at one point used to use the same wiring harness in all trucks from the F150 to the F450 which would have had the correct plug to be able to just snap in the upfitter harness. But with the introduction of the Raptor they decided to make another harness with the need plug omitted. I searched high and low for this plug, even went to far as to have my WHOLE dash apart until I learned this fact.

One sure fire way to tell if you have the required wiring from your engine compartment fuse box is to check fuse location #18 & #19 ( there should be no fuse already installed ). If there are 2 spade tongs in these location then the rest of the wiring should be there. If there is only one spade it will be the power side from the battery only.

Here is an example of the single spade fuse location:
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dthomas60 View Post
Grizz,


Did you just use the OEM plastic that came with the switches to mount in the cubby. Mine seems to have a curvature, I would be interested to see some pics of how you trimmed the switch and the cubby to overcome the curve and some have said there is metal and plastic behind the cubby area that has to be trimmed / bent??


The main reason, is I am thinking of using the area under the main light switch and relocating the instrument dimmer control.


thanks
Yes the switches have a bit of a curve on them but I didn't worry about that much. I did take pic of the trimmed down switch mount but all I really trimmed was a little bit off the external housing and the backside on the right side of the switches. I used some epoxy putty to secure to top side of the switch mounting housing to the back to the trim piece and then filled the bottom with black GE SCS1200 construction adhesive silicone. The cubby was easy to remove by using a die grinder to remove the top of the plastic rivet and it popped right off.

I used a dremel with a cut off blade to gently trim a little of the plastic away behind the interior trim and used a small ballpeen hammer to gently persuade the metal support out of the way.

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Old 02-02-2015, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Red13 View Post
Cheaper to make your own. Plastic is cheap and a few 8 dollar switches.
Sorry but not on my $70,000.00+ truck. It's also my main work truck which has to look good inside & out, I will post pics of it tomorrow and you will see what I mean.
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:30 PM
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Ok back to the install.......

Here are the 2 plugs that are on the harness with a printout that tells you what each wire is for.

This plugs into the back of the upfitter switches:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Gw7d9Js2iG1FF6Lx2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ey977VQMGjknCMeN2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8b8SZpnlxcNsS7Yy2





And this is the plug for the main power feeds from the engine fuse box as well as one wire for a keyed power supply and illumination wire.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/URBPR8IUuzEzAvlt1
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rFQ58xv8kgKpHWHl2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vydbMoZjXL46UyKo1
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Last edited by The Grizz; 07-28-2017 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:52 PM
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I had the idea of adding spade tongs and wires to the engine compartment fuse box and was really hoping it would work.

Remove the lid to the fuse compartment, then cut the tape that is holding the wires to the bottom half the fuse box as well as the tape hold the wire loom to the front of the fuse box. Remove the 10mm nut that attaches the battery cables to the fuse box and tie them back so they dont touch each other or any metal.

Now this is the more difficult part, there are 6 small tabs around the fuse box holding the top & bottom together & 4 - 1" taps holding the whole box in place. I found it easier to loosen the 2 half's first before lifting the the top of the box up.

Once you have the 2 half's apart pull out the bottom and set aside. Carefully turn the top of the fuse box towards the back of the engine compartment until you can see the underside of the fuses.

Attach the spade connectors to the end of 4 wires that are 10' long, I used 16 gauge wire if I remember correctly. Locate the bottom side of 4 empty fuse locations push the wires into the spade slots, if you have the correct spade connectors they will lock into place with a little effort.

Don't forget to mark the end of each wire with a label to which fuse spot you used.



https://photos.app.goo.gl/PVnWmH5A4WnPP3Fw2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TgiKOjtgzV6KuOMz1
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Last edited by The Grizz; 07-28-2017 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:20 AM
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Once all 4 wires where locked in I zip tied them to the main wires, put fuse #18 & #19 wires in one split loom and #50 & #70 ( just 2 empty spots I picked ) into another split loom.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/S569ekQLkbcO00I82


Flip the fuse box over, reattach the bottom of the fuse box & snap the whole box back into place. Once that is done you will have 4 new spots to put your fuses.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/IhaafWfGb81JRKGv2

I run the wires in the split loom around the air cleaner and under the mounting brackets to the rubber plug where all the main wires go through fire wall.



https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z5t2DGVfoxiDTZJp2

Locate the same rubber plug in the cab, there is a hole that is solid on the engine side that I took a 3/16" drill bit and ran it threw. On the engine side I forced the wires through after taping them together with one wire leading ahead of the others.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/J6b5NlBIYxwbXslK2
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Last edited by The Grizz; 07-28-2017 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:34 AM
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Now on to the wiring harness.............

As there is no plug to attach this to the plug must go and on go some female spade connectors. There are 6 wire, 4 go to the wires from the fuse box, 1 goes to keyed power and the last one goes to any where you can tap into dash lighting.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/0lnYE1GFY0UJSAOu2

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Here are the wiring schematics that my Ford guru printed off for me which where a huge help.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/OoL6lZh1aTjTYw7w2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/uj7cWBDbon03AZZD2
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Last edited by The Grizz; 07-28-2017 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:51 AM
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This part was the most frustrating part of the whole install, the relay block. There was supposed to be a spot to mount the bracket that came with the relay block but do you think I could find it............... NO!!!

Being a welding company owner metal never stops me from forward progress. I took the bracket over to the vise and gave it a little tweek. The bracket that came with the fuse block had one side that was long so I gave it a slight twist and bend. At the bottom drivers side of the dash there is a metal support, there is a spot of the bar that angles slightly away from the face of the dash that I drilled a 3/16" hole and screwed the bracket to the bar and attached the fuse block.

Here's the fuse block up in place, Pic was taken with my phone against the fire wall pointed towards the drivers seat.

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Old 02-03-2015, 01:01 AM
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:19 AM
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Next I plugged the harness into the switches and ran the harness across the underside of the center section of the dash to the drivers side. Connected the fuse box wires to the corresponding wire on the harness and tapped them up. For the illumination wire I tapped into the ambient lighting circuit on the drivers side flow through center console.

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The blue connector on the right side is for the finale wiring step, keyed power. The easiest and closest spot to find keyed power is on the passenger side behind the glove box.

I located keyed power on 2 plugs but this one was the easiest one to reach. Using a 3M wire tap connection I tapped into it and ran a wire across to the remaining connection on the harness.

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