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Old 07-09-2014, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Driftboater
No I have not but will hopefully get around to it this week. I put it on my road armor bumper w/ guard and the bugs came right off. I understand you can put it on the fender flares and trim? If so I am putting it on everything.
Just wait til you drive trough a downpour with it on your windshield!! I have it on everything but my tires!! Mirrors, glass, chrome, wiper arms, all plastic trim, door jambs & plastic trim under the hood too!!!

Last edited by Tyssa'sRide; 07-09-2014 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 07-09-2014, 03:00 PM
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I have been thinking about getting some Collinite, but I would need to clay my truck before using the 845. I was reading on Collinite's website and they said to use a sealant. What is everyone using between clay and 845?
Old 07-09-2014, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by boy_welder2000
I have been thinking about getting some Collinite, but I would need to clay my truck before using the 845. I was reading on Collinite's website and they said to use a sealant. What is everyone using between clay and 845?
The Collinite 845 will be your LSP (Last Step Product). If you need to prep your paint with a clay bar, then go ahead & clay it,...then a "polish" or a "pre-wax" should be used to get the paint (clearcoat) as smooth & lustre as possible, before the Collinite 845 is applied.
So to answer your question on the polish or pre wax, I have used many types, BUT my personal NEW favorite: Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion.
You may find many polishes that you may like better or easier to use, or even a little cheaper....But nothing beats the LSP of the Collinite 845!!! That is the magic right there!


EDIT:
Many think that they ALWAYS have to "clay" the vehicle. That is totally up to you, but you may not have to since our vehicles are still pretty new & if washed & waxed on a regular basis....MOST of our paint's are still in great condition. Claying WILL help get a lot of tree sap, & other contaminants BUT maybe just a good wash, use the polish you are inquiring & asking about to use, then your Collinite. I never had to "clay bar" my truck, but I had to on my Dad's 1999 Taurus & will also have to on his 2000 Ranger JUST because it hasn't been waxed in a long time & sits outside under pine trees. So if you can save & skip a step, only you will be the one to see if Claying your truck is even necessary. Some on here have even said that even though "claying" is safe for our clearcoats,... it still can thin it out in time & it's only so many mm thick/thin. ???? Maybe some better detailing gurus can elaborate on that a little more on here?
Good luck & post pics when done! You'll LOVE your Collinite!!!

Last edited by Lethal Weapon; 07-09-2014 at 04:21 PM.
Old 07-09-2014, 04:08 PM
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I'm going to check this stuff out. There is actually a reseller in the small town I grew up in....which seems to be the only one anywhere remotely close to me....which blows my mind.
Old 07-09-2014, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by FL5OVE
I'm going to check this stuff out. There is actually a reseller in the small town I grew up in....which seems to be the only one anywhere remotely close to me....which blows my mind.
I bought mine from a marina. Bottled as Collinite 925. Same product. Couple dollars more because it's at a marina, but no shipping wait.

Last edited by Tyssa'sRide; 07-09-2014 at 04:30 PM.
Old 07-09-2014, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by FL5OVE
I'm going to check this stuff out. There is actually a reseller in the small town I grew up in....which seems to be the only one anywhere remotely close to me....which blows my mind.
Ya know, I came on here to share ideas (& of course see new ones!), But I am almost 48 years old, used many OTC products & many exclusive that I picked up from numerous car & truck shows, and this stuff (Collinite 845) has impressed me the most! I NEVER even heard of it until I came on here!
Now I am a true covert & believer! This stuff is the BOSS!
Old 07-09-2014, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by lethalweapon_09
The Collinite 845 will be your LSP (Last Step Product). If you need to prep your paint with a clay bar, then go ahead & clay it,...then a "polish" or a "pre-wax" should be used to get the paint (clearcoat) as smooth & lustre as possible, before the Collinite 845 is applied. So to answer your question on the polish or pre wax, I have used many types, BUT my personal NEW favorite: Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion. You may find many polishes that you may like better or easier to use, or even a little cheaper....But nothing beats the LSP of the Collinite 845!!! That is the magic right there! EDIT: Many think that they ALWAYS have to "clay" the vehicle. That is totally up to you, but you may not have to since our vehicles are still pretty new & if washed & waxed on a regular basis....MOST of our paint's are still in great condition. Claying WILL help get a lot of tree sap, & other contaminants BUT maybe just a good wash, use the polish you are inquiring & asking about to use, then your Collinite. I never had to "clay bar" my truck, but I had to on my Dad's 1999 Taurus & will also have to on his 2000 Ranger JUST because it hasn't been waxed in a long time & sits outside under pine trees. So if you can save & skip a step, only you will be the one to see if Claying your truck is even necessary. Some on here have even said that even though "claying" is safe for our clearcoats,... it still can thin it out in time & it's only so many mm thick/thin. ???? Maybe some better detailing gurus can elaborate on that a little more on here? Good luck & post pics when done! You'll LOVE your Collinite!!!
I "ALWAYS" clay before polish and wax. Doesn't matter how well taken care of, especially on daily drivers, the paint always has contaminants on it that only clay seems to remove. I've never heard of clay bar removing or wearing down the clear coat. I just can't see it happening with detailing spray being used as a lubricant. I used clay bar on my truck with only 150kms on it. I was really surprised at what was on the paint. Loads of tiny rust spots. YMMV. I do agree though, Collinite is wicked!!!!

Last edited by Tyssa'sRide; 07-09-2014 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:49 PM
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it's pretty simple. If your paint feels smooth and you don't see contaminants. then no reason for clay. You can actually do more harm then good if you don't know what you are doing (more scratches). I clay mine once a year. no reason to do it just for the hell of it. make sure it's something you really need. You might not even have to do the whole truck.

depending on how many swirlmarks and scratches you have, you may need to use a compound/abrasive to remove as much as possible. Follow up with a good polish which will bring out the shine and cover any hazing left by the compound. pretty vital part IMO. now using a sealant/wax is just protection. It def adds shine but the main goal of the wax/sealant is to protect. your prep work up to the final step will be more of a factor for that glass like finish.

summary- Colllinite 845 is a great wax for the price but it will only be as good as your prep work.

Last edited by Limited F150; 07-09-2014 at 04:51 PM.
Old 07-09-2014, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by lethalweapon_09
Ya know, I came on here to share ideas (& of course see new ones!), But I am almost 48 years old, used many OTC products & many exclusive that I picked up from numerous car & truck shows, and this stuff (Collinite 845) has impressed me the most! I NEVER even heard of it until I came on here!
Now I am a true covert & believer! This stuff is the BOSS!
That's good to know. So would this make a significant difference in minimizing water spots after washing? That is what drives me crazy with hand washing.
Old 07-09-2014, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FL5OVE
That's good to know. So would this make a significant difference in minimizing water spots after washing? That is what drives me crazy with hand washing.
it may hide some but if you are getting water spots, there is something wrong with your wash method.

1. clean the truck in the shade
2. clean a portion of the truck and hose it down. keep the truck wet till ready to dry
3. use a leave blower to dry then dab away the water from the portions the leaf blower wasn't able to get. If you still have some water spots, nothing a quick detailer can't remove.


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