cleaned intake valves and installed Full race catch can 3.5 ecoboost
#1
cleaned intake valves and installed Full race catch can 3.5 ecoboost
Hey guys I just wanted to share a couple of pics of what my intake valves looked like at 70,000 miles, only took like 10 mins to get the intake off, then I taped off the other intake ports that I was not working on, and cranked the cylinder one to TDC then started to clean with round brush on cordless drill and about 95 percent of the gunk of the back of the valves. then I clean out the intake with the hot water and dawn soap, then put all back together, then installed my full race catch can and I installed ball valve and barb fitting so I can slide hose over it when I drain it.
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: In a van down by the river
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Holy carbon batman. That seems like a lot of gunk for what isn't really that many miles. Did you ever run any cleaners through it like Techron.
Is the procedure you used to clean it recommended anywhere.
How much volume does that can hold and does the plastic insulated engine cover fit back on with it or do you leave it off?
Is the procedure you used to clean it recommended anywhere.
How much volume does that can hold and does the plastic insulated engine cover fit back on with it or do you leave it off?
Last edited by IAJack; 04-17-2016 at 06:31 PM.
#3
No cleaners, since it`s Direct Injected, and to me I don`t really consider it carbon build up, its more oil that`s getting back into the intake and getting cooked on to the valves, only way to use cleaner would be to let the vacuum suck it into the intake through a port....ford only approved method is to remove the heads, and take the valves out and clean them, the way I did it, I had seen you tube videos where other guys where doing it on other direct injected cars. but they cleaned up pretty well and the whole intake tract, there was just tad bit of the valve I couldn`t get, biggest pain was just stand up on front of the truck to clean the valves.
Last edited by jeremyha; 04-17-2016 at 06:42 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Hey guys I just wanted to share a couple of pics of what my intake valves looked like at 70,000 miles, only took like 10 mins to get the intake off, then I taped off the other intake ports that I was not working on, and cranked the cylinder one to TDC then started to clean with round brush on cordless drill and about 95 percent of the gunk of the back of the valves. then I clean out the intake with the hot water and dawn soap, then put all back together, then installed my full race catch can and I installed ball valve and barb fitting so I can slide hose over it when I drain it.
I'm getting ready to install a full race catch can.
#6
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#8
Just over the existing valves, full race doesnt give you very much hose at all, the hose were just enough and it actually pulls down the can down, I`m going to get new hoses and make them little longer so the can sits a little higher in the front so when I turn on the ball valve it drain completely., also the drain port is 1/4 npt if you want to get ball valve and brass street elbow.
Edit: Yeah I see in there pics looks like they might have used the oem quick disconnect at the end of the hoses, plus full race sent no instructions with the can which is simple to install, but there was nothing about using the factory quick connects on the valve covers.
Last edited by jeremyha; 04-18-2016 at 05:08 AM.
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Sirikenewtron (04-18-2016)
#9
took forever, it was like 4 hours in total with cleaning the throttle body and intake, it was pain to try and stay up on the truck and lean over the top of the motor, sorry I did not get any pictures of being cleaned, I just wanted to get it done, but since I did it, I do feel lot better knowing my valves are lot cleaner now and with the catch can on the truck. Plus today if my new O2 sensors show up, I will be putting Resonated off road down-pipes on today after work and have Torrie from Unleashed do my tuning, like I had on my 2011 ecoboost.
#10
Senior Member
Just over the existing valves, full race doesnt give you very much hose at all, the hose were just enough and it actually pulls down the can down, I`m going to get new hoses and make them little longer so the can sits a little higher in the front so when I turn on the ball valve it drain completely., also the drain port is 1/4 npt if you want to get ball valve and brass street elbow.
Edit: Yeah I see in there pics looks like they might have used the oem quick disconnect at the end of the hoses, plus full race sent no instructions with the can which is simple to install, but there was nothing about using the factory quick connects on the valve covers.
Edit: Yeah I see in there pics looks like they might have used the oem quick disconnect at the end of the hoses, plus full race sent no instructions with the can which is simple to install, but there was nothing about using the factory quick connects on the valve covers.
Thanks for the info, I was going to buy the connectors from UPR just so I can keep my OEM hoses/connectors so I can go back to stock when taking in for service but I thing I'm going to just attach the hoses directly to the PCV valves too and maybe eventually get the quick connects.