Brake rotor removal
#1
How's she goin' eh?
Thread Starter
Brake rotor removal
I found this method and was curious if anyone has tried it.
If that link doesn't work, I'll summarize it. Two bolts on the backside with 2 nuts through the caliper mount holes. Tighten against rotor and keep adjusting until it pops.
I was banging with a hammer and couldn't get it. I replaced only the pads and was tempted to bring it to the mechanic. I don't wanna, brakes are easy to do and I changed my wife's journeys on Saturday before attempting mine. I also want to add, my rotors don't have the two holes in themounting surface to tighten a bolt that way.
Any feedback is welcome. I didn't search here, just google. It brought me to a other f150 forum.
I was banging with a hammer and couldn't get it. I replaced only the pads and was tempted to bring it to the mechanic. I don't wanna, brakes are easy to do and I changed my wife's journeys on Saturday before attempting mine. I also want to add, my rotors don't have the two holes in themounting surface to tighten a bolt that way.
Any feedback is welcome. I didn't search here, just google. It brought me to a other f150 forum.
Last edited by M0RRIS; 10-30-2017 at 08:37 AM.
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crank_it_up (01-12-2023)
#2
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Need a bigger hammer... The only problem I could see with the method above is ... I would hate to break off a caliper mount..
#3
How's she goin' eh?
Thread Starter
I thought of that.
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
That method works well when you don't have air tools at your disposal to cut the rotor off and the biggest hammer you have just isn't cutting it. Just go slow and you'll be fine pressing the rotor off with the method you linked, about the only way you can get in trouble is if you try to press it all the way off in one place instead of alternating from side to side and going a little at a time.
#5
Senior Member
My front rotors just came right off (40000), nearly fell on me. Rear, which hadn't been touched in 70000, used this method. Ruined the bolt I was using, but the truck was fine. Just go slow, you don't need to force it off with more pressure, it's about continual, even pressure. On one the 'pop' came when we weren't even touching it, we had stopped for a moment for some reason, and were standing a couple feet away, POP!! On the other, we would put pressure in one spot, back off, rotate the rotor, more pressure, etc. Eventually worked.
#6
Senior Member
Used that method on my wifes 04 EB Expedition, worked when nothing else would. Worked well!
#7
I've seen that somewhere recently, but I don't recall where.
Fortunately, I've not had to go that far on any of my vehicles--it seems like I had to use a rubber mallet on one rotor, but I don't recall which vehicle needed it. When I changed the rear rotors on my '13 last week, I only needed a couple of raps from the coated handles of my lineman's pliers to convince the passenger side rotor to let go.
I wish there were a way to do that with the stump jumper on my dad's 6' brush hog. That son of a gun is stuck but good, and may very well require the use of a heat wrench...
Fortunately, I've not had to go that far on any of my vehicles--it seems like I had to use a rubber mallet on one rotor, but I don't recall which vehicle needed it. When I changed the rear rotors on my '13 last week, I only needed a couple of raps from the coated handles of my lineman's pliers to convince the passenger side rotor to let go.
I wish there were a way to do that with the stump jumper on my dad's 6' brush hog. That son of a gun is stuck but good, and may very well require the use of a heat wrench...
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#8
Senior Member
When the BFH didn't work I resorted to this and will never use a hammer again. I needed an alignment after and I attribute it to the BFH. Just my 0.02 worth.
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150ECO (10-31-2017)
#10
How's she goin' eh?
Thread Starter
Jesus, I hope not. It's been a day and I haven't had an issue (KNOCK).