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Brake pedal different after brake job

Old 05-24-2017, 08:57 AM
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Default Brake pedal different after brake job

I just put on the severe duty power stop front and rear kit that included the rotors and pads. My truck is a 2012 4x4 screw and I didn't open the master cylinder when I pushed the caliper pistons back in. I carefully used a c-clamp and they went back in with little effort. I didn't bleed the brakes, as a matter of fact I didn't open the system at all. I bought the truck new and the cap has never been off the master cylinder. I didn't see any fluid leaks anywhere and the the brakes worked well, just had bad vibration from warped rotors. Now the brakes work well, but the pedal goes down farther than it used to. I checked the fluid and it's setting at the max mark. It still stops good, but I'm not used to it and I almost run stop signs because I forget to push it down farther. Any ideas what caused this?
Old 05-24-2017, 09:47 AM
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Did you "bed" the brake pads after installing? It makes a big difference in the way the pads "grab" the rotor surface and can cause you to have to push harder to stop.

Last edited by redneck wrencher; 05-24-2017 at 09:50 AM.
Old 05-24-2017, 10:07 AM
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I did it as the break in procedure specified, but it was raining. They stop very well, the pedal just travels farther down to do it. Before it was like it went in about an inch and started grabbing. Now it feels like 2-1/2''.
Old 05-24-2017, 10:11 AM
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bleed the brakes
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Old 05-24-2017, 10:37 AM
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did you install the front pads on the correct side? "ears " on the inside?
Old 05-24-2017, 10:56 AM
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Yep sure did. I just don't understand why the brakes would need to be bled if there was no leak and the system has never been opened. The only thing different is the pads and rotors.
Old 05-24-2017, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Eastwood79
Yep sure did. I just don't understand why the brakes would need to be bled if there was no leak and the system has never been opened. The only thing different is the pads and rotors.
Process of elimination, if you performed the replacement correctly, what's left?
Air, bad booster?
Besides you have a 2012, and you live in a high humidity area, it's due for a fluid replacement anyway.
Old 05-24-2017, 11:14 AM
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It does sound odd...being that you pushed the pistons back in to replace the pads..which usaully means the pedal will move down even less then when the pistons were extended farther out with the worn pads. I'd go back over the work again...check how far the pistons are out now. maybe the line tore slightly when hanging the caliper to do work? loose Banjo bolt?
Old 05-24-2017, 01:44 PM
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Not sure if it will help but with ABS systems after I replace pads I pump the brake pedal about 20 times when I'm all done BEFORE I ever start it. Seems to refill or reset ABS after pushing pistons back. See it this helps...
Old 05-24-2017, 01:54 PM
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Just replaced my front/rear brakes with the same Z36 setup.
Just an idea, but try seating the brakes in again, and really nail them hard and quickly, especially during the first 5 step sequence. Don't give them a chance to cool down at all between applications.
It's possible since it was raining when you did the first bedding in, that water may have cooled the brakes in between applications.
I took mine to 40 mph, grabbed a big handful of brakes, got down to 10 mph, and went WOT up to 40 again, 5 times. Yes, I smoked them, and could definitely smell them. I hope I never have to hit my brakes as hard as I did breaking them in.
It was no problem with traffic for me up here, I was the only one around for miles.

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