Blend door actuator popping noise, any fix?
#31
#34
#35
Indecisive Member
Mine started this last week!!! and wouldn't you know it i was at 36,200 miles!!! Went to ford to see if they would still cover it and they pretty much laughed.
#36
Indecisive Member
My dealer laughed in my face cuz i was sitting at 36,200 miles!! said i would have to pay whatever it costs depending on how long it took them to look at it.
#37
I just had the drivers side replaced on my 2010 KR with 69,000 miles. I was going to try to do it myself, but I didn't think I could tear the entire dash apart. Well, $735 later, I now have heat on the drivers side.
I was really appreciating my heated seats for a couple of days.
The Ford dealer wanted 10 hrs of labor at $95 per hour. The mechanic I found did the job for 8 hrs of labor at $80 per hour. The part only cost $42.
If the drivers side is going bad, expect that your bill will be expensive unless you do it yourself. I did a lot of research on trying to fix it myself; however, with all the electronics these trucks have nowadays, I decided against it. I heard the passenger side is a lot cheaper to fix.
I was really appreciating my heated seats for a couple of days.
The Ford dealer wanted 10 hrs of labor at $95 per hour. The mechanic I found did the job for 8 hrs of labor at $80 per hour. The part only cost $42.
If the drivers side is going bad, expect that your bill will be expensive unless you do it yourself. I did a lot of research on trying to fix it myself; however, with all the electronics these trucks have nowadays, I decided against it. I heard the passenger side is a lot cheaper to fix.
#38
Senior Member
If I ran out of warranty and it wasn't the actuator I would try to free up the internal door. The actuator is what moves the door back and forth and if the door gets stuck you will hear the noise from the actuator gearing trying to move the door without enough strength. So I would remove the actuator, mark the position of the door and make a tool if need be to insert to force the door to move back and forth. It is just plastic to plastic probably so you may be able to wear down the door enough to free it up. After doing this for a while I would put it back to the start position I marked and then replace the actuator and sit back and see what happens. I have done this on Volvo's .,,, they are notorious for the problem and it also was a all day job. I am not sure if it is the door or the plenum that is the exact problem, but on the Volvo it was the plenum and I made a brace that pulled up on the plenum and that fixed the problem. Sure it isn't the way I would do it for customers under warranty but I gave them a choice after warranty,,,, I can fix it for 100 bucks or 700 bucks,,, which would you prefer?
Last edited by mamonti; 11-19-2013 at 12:54 AM.
#39
2011 FX4 Screw blend door actuator
Now has 37000 and I was stupid enough to pay for an extended warranty that "according to the dealer" covered everything. Started to hear that click, click, click when the the air came on. I figured it was the actuator/blend door so I called the dealer.
Warranty manual is so convoluted even they couldn't decide if it was covered so I call the warranty number and ......of course it ISN'T covered. Dealer wanted $100 just to tell me what I already know. They said they might get with Ford IF I bring it in. No guarantee about who gets to pay though. I told 'em I'd think about it.
After doing a little looking I see that this is a recurring problem on a lot of F150's. IMHO it's a sad state of affairs when Engineers put a cheap $30 dollar part that is so prone to fail in a place that takes 2 or 3 (or 5 -6) hours worth of labor to get to. We're not changing spark plugs here or replacing a belt.
What's really sad is I had just recently contacted their Pre-owned Department about buying another Ford from them even though I have 4 or 5 dealers that are closer. They are about 30 miles one way so I told him that if I have to pay for Ford's cheap design I would just consider going for the repairs at a closer dealer or an independent and I'd be buying from someone else. I've owned 2 Chevy's, 1 Jeep, and 7 Ford Products. Now someone tell me why this 65 year old should stay loyal to Ford.
Rant Over
I found all the fuse boxes in the manual, but there is no fuse labelled SJB. Anyone got a better description, fuse #, or photo with an arrow?