Neil350

My 2012 passed the 80K mile mark not to long ago, the truck still rode great but I noticed over time it had gotten more jittery while going over bumps and I felt as the shocks got higher in miles the truck really started to degrade in terms of handling. I figured it would be a good time to change the factory shocks and do some other upgrades. Any questions feel free to ask.

Bilstein HD

I went with these since the truck isn't lifted, I ordered them from a large automotive parts retailer, they were 314$ for the set. Over all they're a bit firmer than the factory shocks but no means rough. They tightened things up quite a bit far as handling. I'll take a firmer ride over boat like handling any day.

Helwig Rear Sway Bar

Installed this as well, over all super simple install. If you have ever swapped a rear sway bar it's pretty much universal far as steps go. Having an extra hand helping made it a lot easier. I used a bench vise to press in the bushings, made really quick work of that as well as getting the sleeves in. Over all the major change I felt was the truck corners flatter, it's still a truck, but at the same time it takes every day curves a lot better.


Timbrens

Super simple install, I mainly did these because I occasionally pull a trailer but a lot of times I end up taking motors to the machine shop. I hated how the rear would sag when a heavy motor was back there, the last motor was a Viper V10 long block. Hoping these make a difference, I have read on other forum reviews that they did.

robertsunrus

Hi, I would like to see pictures of what you have done especially the rear sway bar.

Neil350

Front, the factory sway bar got new end links as well as bushings. The Moog Bushings are a bit stiffer than the factory Ford Bushing.




You can some what see the bar there, there's a lot better pictures out there and install vids on you tube

PawPaw

Looks great...I had the Bilstein HD's on my '04 Lariat and really liked them. The "boot police" may get on you about having the boots up instead of down. I had mine mounted up and they worked fine.

Neil350

I figure I would mess some thing up haha. Pretty easy to swap them around though.

jeffinthebag

How do you like the timbrens so far? How much weight do you put in the bed and how much does it drop with the additional weight in the bed?

toledo

314 for all 4? im thinkin of buying the 5100s but im not sure which ones are better for a 2wd

clm65

Looks great! Did you install the shocks yourself too? If so, how difficult were the fronts?

The Bilstein HDs are the 4600 series, correct? I need new rears on my 2010 and I'm debating between the 4600 and 5100. My truck is not lifted or leveled either. Do you know if the 4600 rides the same as the 5100? Seems to be alot more feedback on this forum for the 5100s. From what I gather, it seems that the main reason to go with the 5100 series for a non-lifted/non-leveled truck is the ability to go there eventually without having the change the shocks again. I don't think I will ever go there, but I do want the best ride performance I can get.

NastyFFX4

iTrader: (1)

Totally different valving, ride, etc.

Neil350

When I spoke to Tirerack, they said the 5100 valving would be more firm than the 4600. Everything on the install was done at a buddies shop with me helping. The rears are easy on everything. The fronts, a good spring compressor really helps but it seemed about average for a front strut install. What helps was that these trucks are still new enough to where everything in decent shape still.

So far I haven't had to haul anything after the install. How ever typically when I do haul some thing it's generally a complete long block. The timbrens just driving around haven't been bad, I have hit some nasty pot holes and driven on less than ideal roads (State of Louisiana) and it's firm over big bumps.