Best modifications under $50
#7291
For a white truck, I actually think that same color would look pretty good — There's another color that I have on hand, but I didn't end up using it with my silver. Check out the matte brown metallic. It looks awesome.
Other colors I would probably check out, if I had a white truck —*
- Satin pearl white
- Matte dark gray
- Matte charcoal metallic
- Brushed titanium
- Matte silver
- Anthracite
you can order samples from here, they're like, 2-3 bucks each - they come in a 1 foot square —*so, you could use them for your emblems or whatever, if you ended up liking a color:
https://www.fellers.com/fellers-shop...c-slideability
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Jim Riley (07-30-2016)
#7292
two separate companies owned by the same families. The logo I would agree is to represent mx and not the suspension gurus. Regardless, cool logo and represent what you want to. Just don't go thin in one is the other. Completely at least.
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johnday in BFE (07-29-2016)
#7293
I hated the jack location under the back seat of my ’13 Super Cab.
Removing the jack let me see the bracket bolted to the floorpan.
Once the bracket was removed I needed a new place for the jack.
Lots of the older trucks stored the jack under the hood so…The frame rails between the front grill and the radiator each have two holes in the top, one square and one round, just begging for a speed nut.
I chose the passenger side and installed an 8mmx1.25 speed nut to match the jack hold down.
The jack fits perfect.
Removing the jack let me see the bracket bolted to the floorpan.
Once the bracket was removed I needed a new place for the jack.
Lots of the older trucks stored the jack under the hood so…The frame rails between the front grill and the radiator each have two holes in the top, one square and one round, just begging for a speed nut.
I chose the passenger side and installed an 8mmx1.25 speed nut to match the jack hold down.
The jack fits perfect.
#7294
Senior Member
I hated the jack location under the back seat of my ’13 Super Cab.
Removing the jack let me see the bracket bolted to the floorpan.
Once the bracket was removed I needed a new place for the jack.
Lots of the older trucks stored the jack under the hood so…The frame rails between the front grill and the radiator each have two holes in the top, one square and one round, just begging for a speed nut.
I chose the passenger side and installed an 8mmx1.25 speed nut to match the jack hold down.
The jack fits perfect.
Removing the jack let me see the bracket bolted to the floorpan.
Once the bracket was removed I needed a new place for the jack.
Lots of the older trucks stored the jack under the hood so…The frame rails between the front grill and the radiator each have two holes in the top, one square and one round, just begging for a speed nut.
I chose the passenger side and installed an 8mmx1.25 speed nut to match the jack hold down.
The jack fits perfect.
My best "mod" under $50 was free. I flipped the spare tire to valve stem down so I can check the tire pressure more easily (in theory I'll check it more often now).
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Wesleypipesyo (07-16-2021)
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Wesleypipesyo (07-16-2021)
#7296
Junior Member
I was getting the color match FX4 front bumper rock chip to rust dilemma...paintable rock guard/bedliner ten bucks and then blue flame matching paint over top 30. Much better now.
Also...first post since joining
Also...first post since joining
#7297
That is a good Idea and you did a very nice job! Might have to steal this idea!
#7298
@BAD-DOG, Thank you for the inspiration. I didn't cut out on of the sheet metal like you did, I think for now I have enough space. It's still an option due to the child seat. Please excuse the messy carpet, she needs a good vacuuming. $9 for the carpet at home depot. I already had the wood supplies laying around.
#7299
Hey, now that I have all of the underseat storage, I got to have more!!!
I have made a simple one piece aluminum bracket that allows me easy access to that space behind the rear seats (and boy do I have some plans for that space! I know that this will not be the first time anyone has done this. I just haven't seen it (yet), I've only had this truck a little over three weeks.
This is what the finished product looks like:
Simply lift up on the tab and the seat back folds forward. Soon to reveal some serious speaker action and amplifiers....
This is what the bracket looks like:
A simple 7" long aluminum strip with a 1/4" hole (the slot was added to make it fit on my buddies 2009 sCrew. The pin on the latch actually has a mushroom head which requires the hook like feature. My 2011 is a simple (read as cheap) piece of 1/4" round stock. I used a simple jack-nut or push-nut (like that used to hold the wheels on a kids toy car) to hold my release bracket and prevent it from falling off. This is what it looks like behind the seat and attached to the seat latch:
I had to be careful not to push the nut on too far, a fair amount of play was required to allow the mechanism to latching properly. All in all, I spent less than $6 for everything. I was going to plastic-dip the tabs, but that was going to add $12 more to the project so I just polished out the aluminum with the buffing wheel.
I have made a simple one piece aluminum bracket that allows me easy access to that space behind the rear seats (and boy do I have some plans for that space! I know that this will not be the first time anyone has done this. I just haven't seen it (yet), I've only had this truck a little over three weeks.
This is what the finished product looks like:
Simply lift up on the tab and the seat back folds forward. Soon to reveal some serious speaker action and amplifiers....
This is what the bracket looks like:
A simple 7" long aluminum strip with a 1/4" hole (the slot was added to make it fit on my buddies 2009 sCrew. The pin on the latch actually has a mushroom head which requires the hook like feature. My 2011 is a simple (read as cheap) piece of 1/4" round stock. I used a simple jack-nut or push-nut (like that used to hold the wheels on a kids toy car) to hold my release bracket and prevent it from falling off. This is what it looks like behind the seat and attached to the seat latch:
I had to be careful not to push the nut on too far, a fair amount of play was required to allow the mechanism to latching properly. All in all, I spent less than $6 for everything. I was going to plastic-dip the tabs, but that was going to add $12 more to the project so I just polished out the aluminum with the buffing wheel.
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FX-Madness (07-31-2016)
#7300
Senior Member
I think you should have pulled the bumpers personally and sanded them down to bare steel, primed and then Bedlined and ptm. Kind of looks like **** cause you can see all your rust and corrosion under the paint.