I replaced all 4 of the factory speakers a while ago...the sounds level just doesnt go high enough for me...

i want to install a 4 way amp for the door speakers AND a amp for a subwoofer to the factory single cd sync equipped headunit

what do i need to accomplish this? I have a vibe 4 way amp fyi

anyone have a DIY
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and just incase you all wanted to know what speakers i got

(i found all 4 of the speakers on ebay for $168, but crutchfeild had good pics)

for the REAR i went with the Kenwood-KFC-P680C

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KFCP...80C.html?tp=92

and for the FRONT i went with the JL-Audio C2-570X

http://www.crutchfield.com/s_136C257...70X.html?tp=92

 

For space maybe a 5 channel or 6 so you eliminate one amp and spend the money getting a better quality single amp. Also remember half the installation costs also, power adpaters etc. Get a very good hi to lo converter also. Find out exactly what you want to do map it out then get a good test fit of everything before you get to actual installation. Buy quality components not off brand and remember to a degree you get what you pay for. I drive around and listen to the motor and I owned a stereo shop for a lot of years, just noise to me anymore. Louder is not always better... Speakers are a good choice just remember to water insulate them when installing... If they get wet it will ruin the voice coils... If you have a question ask I try to log on two to three times a day.. good luck....

 

I found a 5-ch amp on eBay it is a:
Jensen power5500 660w 5-ch amp for $140 new
Do u have any knowledge on that name brand? That price sure looks good. I know u get what you pay for but is that amp pretty good for the price or just garbage?
Here's the amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-SSipogO...ower-5500.html

 

I have 2 amps installed in my truck using the factory SYNC headunit, and I wish I had a 5-channel JL amp with adjustable sub level.

It's really going to drive you crazy not being able to adjust the subwoofer level with your headunit. The bass control on the factory headunit isn't very good, so you're more than likely going to prefer it in the neutral position, with an adjustable subwoofer volume control **** mounted somewhere under the dash near you.

This is going to be my next upgrade, even if I stick with a monoblock amp for the sub.

FYI, JL also makes a great line out converter call the clean sweep. I'm using the Re-Q5, which is ok, but doesn't do any equalizing.

This stuff might be above your price point, but having a ****ty amp is going to suck... trust me.

 

yeah i hear ya cant go wrong with rockford fosgate or JL audio...might just save up to get a more legit amp.

looking at
rockford, Jl, and INfinity amps

 

Well the first clue for an amp is power output... Amps X Volts = Watts.. so a 500 watt amp has to be 500 divide by the voltage equals the amp draw... So why does it have a 20 amp fuse? because it is rated at 24 volts.. so then how much will your car put out? 250 watts max because your car is 12 volts... It is not a theory, well it is its called ohms law.. Now then Jensen makes cheaper than the average car audio equipment so you get cheaper.. Stick to looking at higher end equipment for the 100 to 200 more you pay you get more then double the performance.. However of course there is a point of diminshing returns you get to real high end you pay twice as much for only 20% more performance. It really becomes what you want loud? or quality? My personal choices stay to Rockford Fosgate, JL audio, Kicker, Soundstream (tarantula line) a little more quality try Diamond audio it is pretty good. Stay away from the off brands that sound good but are not good.. In the end it really comes down to taste mine tends to be much higher fidelity so my choice in front speakers is Diamond seperates with seperate cross overs... good quality but you pay alot more... Then you have those that just want to make noise and thats what they want loud... So then go to JL audio its not as hi fidelty but really kicks butt in the loud department.. There typically is a reason when you find huge price differences on the net too, discontinued, repaired, refurbished equipment has to go somewhere....
Side note Amps X volts = watts
So 13 volts X 40 amps = 520 watts fuse has to be 40 Amps or it will not work... 13 I used as the average voltage in a car some 14.5 some 12.8 but its an average
Also check THD level realizing above 1/2% THD you can not listen to music.
If you see THD 10% at 500 watts then it is junk....
THD is total harmonic distortion, how bad the music is distorted when played..


Realize I dont make everyone happy these are my humble opinions having done this for 30 years... :{)

 

short answer is that you will never get good audio signal from a stock head unit. its junk. you'll have to buy a aftermarket HU. and then if you really want to get picky you will need to pay attention to the line level voltage output levels (3v,4v,5v,etc). it matters. all the signal converters (mx-1 "processors") are all junk too. all they do is take a crap signal and convert it to a usable (amp-able) signal but you're still using junk audio signal. believe me. I do this for a living.

I replaced my door speakers in mine right away to Rockford Fosgate t1682s in all the doors mainly because the factory's sounded blown but i plan on getting an HU and amps/sub later. they do sound better in the meantime.

 

( IM GOING TO KEEP UPDATES ON THIS ORIGINAL THREAD I FORGOT ABOUT..CHECK THERE FOR UPDATES! https://www.f150forum.com/f38/just-o...peakers-64475/ )

an update:

I just won on ebay a:
Infinity Kappa Five-Z 5 Channel Class-D Amp for $162

these amp are really good ones




so step two is done (1st step was replacing the door speakers), next im going to order the amp wiring kit off of ebay...
then im going to check into install pricing...or doing it myself


Heres some info on the amp:
CEA Rated: Yes
Power Output 50 watts RMS x 4 channel at 4 ohms and 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms ? 1% THD + N
Signal-to-Noise Ratio 85dBA (reference 1 watt into 4 ohms)
Frequency Response (-3dB) 10Hz to 75kHz (-3dB) Full-Range Channels 20Hz to 320Hz (-3dB) Subwoofer Channel
Effective Damping Factor 6.3 at 4 ohms
Maximum Input Signal 6V
Maximum Sensitivity 200mV

 

I think you mean Watt's Law?

I agree with pretty much he said due to the fact he is right.

Make sure to go with a good 5 channel amp and pay close attention to RMS (Peak means absolutely nothing). Also be sure to pay attention to any active crossovers pertaining to low and highs. You will need a good LOC to be able to retain the factory head unit with an aftermarket amplifier.

 

I have two amps installed behind the back seats...an Infinity Ref 1300a for my Ref 10" sub and a Kappa 4 for my Kappa door speakers. I had Best Buy install my amps because i didn't have the time....plus lifetime warranty on install. I'll write a list of all you need and post a pic of their work tomorrow. The did such a good job, I had to drop off a case!

Nasty