Audio input splitter?
07-23-2014, 04:20 PM
#11
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Ok, one more question, my factory jack has 4 wires? Which is which and what's the extra wire for. Maybe it's easier to get that switch for the two inputs and run the output to my factory jack via a male to male cable? Then I can run one input line in my console and run the other new input to where my factory jack was?
But doing it without modifying the factory wiring is another option.
07-23-2014, 08:57 PM
#12
Member
Connector Wiring
Part-way down this Webpage, see a nice Pinout Drawing. Being from Oz, their term 'Mic -' = Signal Ground. As in the black Ground connection on any Vehicle Battery. The whole 'Mic' reference is to when a Cellphone Mic is used. Mic doesn't have to be used. On, say, an Apple Nano Mini Phone Jack, there is no Mic. The Mic Pins are used to output Nano Audio. The other 2 Mini Phone Jack Pins are used for Nano Battery charging.
4 Wire Mini Phone Plug Wiring
All USB Connectors have +5 Volt power on the 2 outside Pins. 'Vcc +' means positive Voltage, as in the +5 Volts inherent shown below on any USB connection. It also means positive Voltage on a Mini Phone Jack. 'Vcc -' = Signal Ground [black Wire]. This is Worldwide terminology I encountered in my Tech Travels. USB Connectors on Computers have this +5 VDC, too. I think it's great that 'The World' is cutting over to using USB. There's bright Mini Lights that plug into, and operate off of, USB. See the Connectors at the Webpage top left. Don't let all the Tech_y USB discussion on this Webpage buffalo you.
USB Connector Wiring
I unplug my Galaxy 4 Android Phone Cord from the 120 Volt AC Wall Charger 'Cube'. I plug that same USB Connector into my basic Sync Panel Connector in my new F-150. My Phone charges as I drive. Audio is not transferred. I haven't gone there yet, so I'm skipping providing that part of this answer.
Modern USB now can supply 2 Amps. Very handy for doing/running all kinds of things. True USB connectivity of all 4 Pins is reserved for controlling other aspects of a USB connection.
You could wire a USB Female Connector, as on the Ford Sync Input Connector, in parallel with a 3 or 4 connection Mini Phone Plug. I'm not claiming that Ford Sync does this. As wisely advised above, wire in an 'A -> B' Switch to avoid shorting.
Google further to find subtleties of what you want to do, since I'm not perfectly clear on your intent. It'll work. However, I don't want to 'help' you fry anything by designing on line. One trick is to plug in a 'raw' Connector and, with a Voltmeter, check what Voltages and/or connections you've got. As I like to say about my wiring muck-ups over the Decades where I assumed something wrong: 'Why do it half-Azzed when you can do it full-Azzed.'
4 Wire Mini Phone Plug Wiring
All USB Connectors have +5 Volt power on the 2 outside Pins. 'Vcc +' means positive Voltage, as in the +5 Volts inherent shown below on any USB connection. It also means positive Voltage on a Mini Phone Jack. 'Vcc -' = Signal Ground [black Wire]. This is Worldwide terminology I encountered in my Tech Travels. USB Connectors on Computers have this +5 VDC, too. I think it's great that 'The World' is cutting over to using USB. There's bright Mini Lights that plug into, and operate off of, USB. See the Connectors at the Webpage top left. Don't let all the Tech_y USB discussion on this Webpage buffalo you.
USB Connector Wiring
I unplug my Galaxy 4 Android Phone Cord from the 120 Volt AC Wall Charger 'Cube'. I plug that same USB Connector into my basic Sync Panel Connector in my new F-150. My Phone charges as I drive. Audio is not transferred. I haven't gone there yet, so I'm skipping providing that part of this answer.
Modern USB now can supply 2 Amps. Very handy for doing/running all kinds of things. True USB connectivity of all 4 Pins is reserved for controlling other aspects of a USB connection.
You could wire a USB Female Connector, as on the Ford Sync Input Connector, in parallel with a 3 or 4 connection Mini Phone Plug. I'm not claiming that Ford Sync does this. As wisely advised above, wire in an 'A -> B' Switch to avoid shorting.
Google further to find subtleties of what you want to do, since I'm not perfectly clear on your intent. It'll work. However, I don't want to 'help' you fry anything by designing on line. One trick is to plug in a 'raw' Connector and, with a Voltmeter, check what Voltages and/or connections you've got. As I like to say about my wiring muck-ups over the Decades where I assumed something wrong: 'Why do it half-Azzed when you can do it full-Azzed.'
Last edited by Engineer Guy; 07-23-2014 at 09:13 PM.