davemak

Just curious if you reviewed the video I mentioned. If the written instructions are different or enable me to disassemble less stuff and still do it clean, with out damage, I'm happy to pay the $10, although I have bought a few things from them recently, just not an item that would include these specific instructions.

Thanks.

penumbra

And yes, there is definitely plenty of room for that unit.

Mr. Ford-Man

davemak

I plan to install my amp this weekend. In preparation, I wired a couple of fused 12V sources direct to the battery, but struggled to find a clean way to get switched 12 volts.

Word of caution: the fuse boxes on 2014 models have changed, and it is now impossible to use any kind of add-a-circuit to the passenger's side fuse box. All the fuses are now deeper in the box and no add a circuit (mini or low profile mini) will fit.

However, I did manage to find one place that worked in the 'under the hood' fuse box. The mini low-profile fit perfect in the slot for the rain sensor. With a foam pad on the inside of the cover, it maintains gentle pressure on the add a circuit body to keep it plugged in - the cover fits perfect.

Another apparent change is that all the unused slots are no longer wired to hot - they don't even have the prongs to grab the fuse contacts.

With this setup, I did give up the 'delayed accessory' mode and only have key on/off mode, but I am willing to make this compromise for a clean install.

The particular amp I am installing has auto-sensing, but I have some other equipment that needs the turn-on lead.

Thanks,
Dave

Mr. Ford-Man

Thanks Dave! Can we please get a photo of the fuse location you used and how it turned out? Any other photos of the step by step process would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Jason

davemak

penumbra

I'm not a huge fan of the add-a fuse method. No particular reason, just always feels odd to me. The Parrot harness has a switched power on it, as does the LockPick, if you're installing an after market backup camera.

davemak

I guess part of it depends on what you need switched power for. In my case, I need it for 3 devices and I wasn't comfortable pulling from an existing wire meant to signal 1 device.

I actually think this is better - you get an independently fused new circuit powered from the main switched buss.

penumbra

Yeah, definitely an advantage there. One point, though - if your device is uses a separate switch circuit from its supply the load is extremely minimal.

For example, if you had 2 300w amps supplied by separate 12 ga wires from the battery. The switched supply to each could be off the same light duty circuit like less than 1 amp.

That won't hold necessarily true if the switched circuit is the primary supply for the device. YMMV.

davemak

Agreed. For me, it is strictly switched - each device has its own constant 12V direct to the battery. And you are probably right - I could have pulled from the harness and routed to 3 devices. But I wanted to be as safe as possible and make sure that a device mal-function couldn't take out something else in the vehicle.

Its probably overkill, but I like overkill.

BTW, are you done with your system? How do you like it?