After Leveled And Aligned
You remove the LCAs for a leveling kit install or are you just generally speaking? I torqued the lower strut bolt down at full droop but that connection point is made to move so I don't see how binding would be a factor.
My factory alignment was still in spec after I leveled mine with Bilsteins at the 2nd from top notch. My driver side toe was out a little bit but that had nothing to do with the level. It was either like that from the factory or I hammered a pothole. So in my case, the height did not change whatsoever before/after the alignment. My 35's, however, had a slight impact on height.
My factory alignment was still in spec after I leveled mine with Bilsteins at the 2nd from top notch. My driver side toe was out a little bit but that had nothing to do with the level. It was either like that from the factory or I hammered a pothole. So in my case, the height did not change whatsoever before/after the alignment. My 35's, however, had a slight impact on height.
No I don't remove the LCAs but I do loosen the bolts. Actually, with the strut out, it's a good time to add some cams to the LCA so you can really dial it in on the alignment rack. LCAs, UCAs, shackles, lower strut bolt should be torqued at ride height and not full droop. Reason for this is that, at ride height, the bushing should be in a "neutral" position ready to flex either direction. If the bushing(s) are torqued at full droop the bushing will be in a flexed or twisted position (binding) at ride height which can shorten the life of the bushing. When bottoming out the suspension travel (full compression) an improperly torqued bushing can run out of flex causing either the bushing or another component to fail (especially the Bilstein 5100s).
There is a shop where I am from that will install a leveling kit and align my truck for 100 bucks. Had it done on my 06. Was a good deal until they found my struts were bad and needed replacing. That lightened my wallet a little.


