Adding 4 channel amp
Hey guys, what is your guys advise on adding an alpine 4channel 300watt amp (MRV-F300) to a 2014 screw with the stock Sony system which I all ready changed out the speakers to the kicker 6x8 plug and play from stage3. I am looking for a bit louder and clear sound... Because the stock Sonys is just don't cut it for me.. Do you guys think it will be a big difference.
I think you'll need a lc4 or lc6 converter from audio control. The factory amp has a different frequency that goes to the head unit then a different frequency to the speakers at least that's what I've been told. I bought all my stuff but haven't installed it look on YouTube a guy has the whole process and installing video on his truck.
Depends how you want to do it with rca or just splice the wires straight to the head unit and return them back to the amp I did it both ways wires first until I got an aftermarket head unit now it's ran with rca.
It's a lot more difficult than a typical install. Since you have the sony system, The headunit only has a DSP signal output (2-wires) to the factory amplifier located under the center console. The way I did it was to grab the outputs to each speaker from the amplifier under the center console and hook them into the speaker level inputs of an aftermarket amplifier. The factory amp will still do all of the decoding and provide you with a speaker level output to each speaker. You then run the output of the new amplifier to the speakers using the existing speaker wiring. Basically, you are splicing in between the factory amp and the speakers to boost the signal.
I did this in my 2011 using an alpine power pack, and it worked great.
Headunit --> Factory amp --> speaker level input of new amp ---> speakers
I did this in my 2011 using an alpine power pack, and it worked great.
Headunit --> Factory amp --> speaker level input of new amp ---> speakers
Originally Posted by CP3
It's a lot more difficult than a typical install. Since you have the sony system, The headunit only has a DSP signal output (2-wires) to the factory amplifier located under the center console. The way I did it was to grab the outputs to each speaker from the amplifier under the center console and hook them into the speaker level inputs of an aftermarket amplifier. The factory amp will still do all of the decoding and provide you with a speaker level output to each speaker. You then run the output of the new amplifier to the speakers using the existing speaker wiring. Basically, you are splicing in between the factory amp and the speakers to boost the signal.
I did this in my 2011 using an alpine power pack, and it worked great.
Headunit --> Factory amp --> speaker level input of new amp ---> speakers
I did this in my 2011 using an alpine power pack, and it worked great.
Headunit --> Factory amp --> speaker level input of new amp ---> speakers
That actually doesn't sound too bad. So only that new amp is needed? No extra stuff aside from the wiring?
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It really wasn't bad at all. If you use the alpine power pack it even fits under the console so you wont have to mount it somewhere else and run wires.
There is a wire color code diagram floating around that tells you which color wires go to which speakers. Cut wires coming out the factory amp and run into new amp. Take the other end of the cut wire and put it into new amp output. Super easy. The alpine even has an auto-on feature so you wont need to pull an ACC wire. Just positive and ground.
The ONLY issue is since its 4 channels, you can only power the door speakers, not the tweeters and center channel. I actually bought (2) power packs and used one for door speakers and the other for tweeters and center channel. I kept stock speakers and it still sounds amazing at high volume. Just tuned the amp gain to where full volume is right on the brink of distorting the sound and it is wayyyyy louder than stock. Not lacking power at all.
Power packs are like $150 a piece at best buy so it doesn't break the bank either. Same concept can apply to any other amplifier though.
Originally Posted by CP3
It really wasn't bad at all. If you use the alpine power pack it even fits under the console so you wont have to mount it somewhere else and run wires.
There is a wire color code diagram floating around that tells you which color wires go to which speakers. Cut wires coming out the factory amp and run into new amp. Take the other end of the cut wire and put it into new amp output. Super easy. The alpine even has an auto-on feature so you wont need to pull an ACC wire. Just positive and ground.
The ONLY issue is since its 4 channels, you can only power the door speakers, not the tweeters and center channel. I actually bought (2) power packs and used one for door speakers and the other for tweeters and center channel. I kept stock speakers and it still sounds amazing at high volume. Just tuned the amp gain to where full volume is right on the brink of distorting the sound and it is wayyyyy louder than stock. Not lacking power at all.
There is a wire color code diagram floating around that tells you which color wires go to which speakers. Cut wires coming out the factory amp and run into new amp. Take the other end of the cut wire and put it into new amp output. Super easy. The alpine even has an auto-on feature so you wont need to pull an ACC wire. Just positive and ground.
The ONLY issue is since its 4 channels, you can only power the door speakers, not the tweeters and center channel. I actually bought (2) power packs and used one for door speakers and the other for tweeters and center channel. I kept stock speakers and it still sounds amazing at high volume. Just tuned the amp gain to where full volume is right on the brink of distorting the sound and it is wayyyyy louder than stock. Not lacking power at all.
Did I read right? This power pack can be powered off of the same wire powering the factory amp?
Here is the wiring colors. I would save this image.
Last edited by CP3; Mar 31, 2016 at 05:30 PM.






