ABS light, Brake light, Check Brake System and anti skid indicators on analog readout
#11
Brake
I had this problem after a long drive in an ice storm last year then late this summer my abs just stayed full on when I started it up to head to work every time I pushed the pedal it shuttered and went to the floor like the truck was sliding so I popped the hood and unplugged the abs harness haven't had trouble with it since so I am now running without abs until I find time to track which wheel sensor is fried from the snow storm that is what I believe is wrong with mine you may want to pull the wheels off check each wheel sensor and clean up any coroeded plugs.
#12
#13
Certified Grumpasaurus
Removing and replacing the ECBM is easy.
MPD165
The following 2 users liked this post by MPD165:
GoldenRod (06-26-2021),
Karen Kaufman (12-20-2020)
#14
Thank you
I had several codes come up at the same time, ABS pump failure and several traction control codes. These systems are all interconnected so I rolled the dice and decided the Electronic Brake Control Module had failed, common failure as the solder joints break on the control board. ECBM is located on the side of the ABS pump. A new ECBM is $600+ and has to be programmed. I looked at several places that repair them and decided on the company in my post. I sent it to them and for $170 they repaired it and its been good ever since.
Removing and replacing the ECBM is easy.
MPD165
Removing and replacing the ECBM is easy.
MPD165
#15
Ecbm
I had several codes come up at the same time, ABS pump failure and several traction control codes. These systems are all interconnected so I rolled the dice and decided the Electronic Brake Control Module had failed, common failure as the solder joints break on the control board. ECBM is located on the side of the ABS pump. A new ECBM is $600+ and has to be programmed. I looked at several places that repair them and decided on the company in my post. I sent it to them and for $170 they repaired it and its been good ever since.
Removing and replacing the ECBM is easy.
MPD165
Removing and replacing the ECBM is easy.
MPD165
#18
#19
I get the same error messages as the OP but ONLY when it is -6 degrees Celsius or below outside. This morning we went out, it was -3 and no lights. Got in the truck later in the day when it was colder, about -7 and the lights were on!!! Any thoughts before I head to Ford and spend more stupid amounts of money on diagnosis and sensors!!
The following users liked this post:
Qualutions (01-26-2022)
#20
I have a similar issue on my 2009 F150, All ABS dash/brake warning lights stay on.
It started gradually, maybe every 3rd time I drove the truck then continued in frequency and now they stay on. The first few times I noticed it happening, the lights would go off after I drove maybe 200 yards and I would hear a clunkclunk sound coming from under truck. After hearing sound all lights would go off until next trip.
The scanner shows codes C1300 ABS Pump Motor Circuit Failure and C1963 ABS Stability Control Inhibit Warnings. I took off the ABS control unit, sent it into get fixed, put back on, cleared the codes and still the same issue. My understanding is that if it's a wheel sensor, there will be a separate code for that.
Anyone have any ideas? I read something from a previous post about testing the ABS hydraulic unit itself, can anyone go into specifics on how this is done?
Thanks
It started gradually, maybe every 3rd time I drove the truck then continued in frequency and now they stay on. The first few times I noticed it happening, the lights would go off after I drove maybe 200 yards and I would hear a clunkclunk sound coming from under truck. After hearing sound all lights would go off until next trip.
The scanner shows codes C1300 ABS Pump Motor Circuit Failure and C1963 ABS Stability Control Inhibit Warnings. I took off the ABS control unit, sent it into get fixed, put back on, cleared the codes and still the same issue. My understanding is that if it's a wheel sensor, there will be a separate code for that.
Anyone have any ideas? I read something from a previous post about testing the ABS hydraulic unit itself, can anyone go into specifics on how this is done?
Thanks