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Old 01-28-2015, 06:55 PM
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5th wheel towing with F150- I am doing it!!!!

http://www.f150forum.com/f38/5th-whe...m-doing-52823/

ISSUE

Step-by-Step instructions of how a user was able to tow his 5th wheel trailer for a trip with his family. Includes specifications of the hook-up, as well as tips and tricks for best practices and safety.
It is important to determine the maximum weight of:
• The pin
• Maximum trailer weight

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5th wheel towing with F150- I am doing it!!!!

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Old 12-08-2015, 03:27 PM
  #521  
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Hi guys, long time since I've posted but after a very exciting summer of 5th wheel towing, I thought I should chime in and give back to the thread which helped me most in this endeavor.

I researched the hell out of this before buying the trailer. I got everything from "its completely impossible" to "its no problem at all". Im happy to say, that with some due diligence and being realistic about your F150's capabilities, its not only possible but safe and comfortable.

My first journey was a 1400km (900m) round trip through the Canadian rockies. I kept a close eye on my temps, had an oil change beforehand, and just took it slow. I was most nervous about a climb called "Crows Nest Pass", and after conquering that with no issues, maybe a 3 degree trans temp rise, I was far more confident ever since. (first pic)

My next was a 3600km (2200m) round trip from Calgary Alberta to the Black Rock Desert, Nevada and back, fully loaded with camping supplies. Once again, no problems. I did notice our trucks, at least the 5.0L do not like high altitudes, but nothing a little slow and steady cant handle, with breaks when needed.

Overall, I wouldn't go any bigger or heavier. We do try to pack as light as possible. I have a good brake controller and tires all round and I feel very safe driving this down steep hills. Of course, hindsight is 20/20, and had I known I'd be towing a 5th wheel I would have gotten an F250 at least, but Im very happy with this setup.

It sits perfectly level by the way. No sag, and handles nicely. This is the short box and I tow with a Reese Sidewinder. STILL wants to hit the cab! Just. So Im very careful. Its got the nearly ideal 6" of rail clearance and the trailer just happens to sit almost perfectly level with my husky hitch adjusted high as it can go.

Thanks to everyone in here who helped explain to us novices what math has to be done and what to consider.




Last edited by Sherwood; 12-08-2015 at 03:38 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by Sherwood:
130428 (12-08-2015), berty (12-08-2015), SkiSmuggs (12-09-2015)
Old 12-09-2015, 07:50 AM
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When I read on my phone that you were close to hitting the cab with a Sidewinder, I had to get on my PC to look at the pictures. Those square front corners definitely are a few years old. Thanks for the share. I did it for 3 seasons with my 2011 F150 Ecoboost Max Tow. After possibly warping an exhaust manifold pulling a long upgrade in Wyoming, I traded for an F350. But the F150 did a great job. It is a matter of matching the fiver and the truck appropriately.
Old 12-09-2015, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SkiSmuggs
When I read on my phone that you were close to hitting the cab with a Sidewinder, I had to get on my PC to look at the pictures. Those square front corners definitely are a few years old. Thanks for the share. I did it for 3 seasons with my 2011 F150 Ecoboost Max Tow. After possibly warping an exhaust manifold pulling a long upgrade in Wyoming, I traded for an F350. But the F150 did a great job. It is a matter of matching the fiver and the truck appropriately.
Exactly, im certainly aware the whole time I'm towing that its not ideal, but I really take my time. Just curious, how did it almost bend an exhaust manifold? I mean, how did you know that was happening and was it just from strain?

as for it wanting to hit the cab, yeah, I hate those damn square corners. Soon as I got into this 5th wheel business I could tell its an "always want better" scenario. Ultimately though, I can deal with this setup. Its like 86 degrees before I have to keep my eyes locked on the back window. I do look forward to those 90 degree park jobs though when I upgrade.
Old 12-10-2015, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Sherwood
Exactly, im certainly aware the whole time I'm towing that its not ideal, but I really take my time. Just curious, how did it almost bend an exhaust manifold? I mean, how did you know that was happening and was it just from strain?
I started hearing a new sound after a long (8 miles or more) uphill pull in Wyoming and the temperature started to climb for the first time in a 7,000 mile trip. Water temp went from the center to the 2/3 mark before I slowed to let it cool. After that, it made noise under boost and seemed to lack some mid-range power. My dealer diagnosed it as the vacuum pump, replaced it to the tune of $700 at 60K and it still had the same symptoms. The exhaust manifold doesn't have enough bolts to keep it from warping under higher than normal temperatures, a known problem. At 68K, I traded it in as I had no faith in the service department and I was off warranty.
Someone on this forum replaced his left manifold and posted pictures with a straight edge on it. The amount it had warped was unreal.
Old 12-10-2015, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by SkiSmuggs
I started hearing a new sound after a long (8 miles or more) uphill pull in Wyoming and the temperature started to climb for the first time in a 7,000 mile trip. Water temp went from the center to the 2/3 mark before I slowed to let it cool. After that, it made noise under boost and seemed to lack some mid-range power. My dealer diagnosed it as the vacuum pump, replaced it to the tune of $700 at 60K and it still had the same symptoms. The exhaust manifold doesn't have enough bolts to keep it from warping under higher than normal temperatures, a known problem. At 68K, I traded it in as I had no faith in the service department and I was off warranty.
Someone on this forum replaced his left manifold and posted pictures with a straight edge on it. The amount it had warped was unreal.
thats insane. Well, theres no way of knowing if the 5.0L are immune to that issue, but it makes me feel a little better about getting one. For a while I wished I had got the ecoboost because turbo helps at high altitudes, plus the higher torque. Maybe the 5.0L is a bit more burly. One can hope
Old 12-10-2015, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SkiSmuggs
I started hearing a new sound after a long (8 miles or more) uphill pull in Wyoming and the temperature started to climb for the first time in a 7,000 mile trip. Water temp went from the center to the 2/3 mark before I slowed to let it cool. After that, it made noise under boost and seemed to lack some mid-range power. My dealer diagnosed it as the vacuum pump, replaced it to the tune of $700 at 60K and it still had the same symptoms. The exhaust manifold doesn't have enough bolts to keep it from warping under higher than normal temperatures, a known problem. At 68K, I traded it in as I had no faith in the service department and I was off warranty.
Someone on this forum replaced his left manifold and posted pictures with a straight edge on it. The amount it had warped was unreal.
I noticed a slight manifold leak in my 11 eco, so I swapped it off while just under the 60K warranty. I wasn't interested in another fix. I was happy with my 11, but being the first year, there were lots of things to work out.

My 14 has been great. I had a transmission TSB done for the moaning noise when in drive with the brake on. Since then it has been flawless. I can't wait to move into the new one in a couple of years. By then a lot of the bugs should be worked out of the body manufacturing. I'm really interested in the 2.7 since I'll probably lighten my towing load and the 3.5 will be overkill.
Old 12-10-2015, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Sherwood
thats insane. Well, theres no way of knowing if the 5.0L are immune to that issue, but it makes me feel a little better about getting one. For a while I wished I had got the ecoboost because turbo helps at high altitudes, plus the higher torque. Maybe the 5.0L is a bit more burly. One can hope
I think it would be cool if they finally figure out an electric turbo that could easily be used under WOT or when in towing mode. The 5.0 would do great with just a little boost between 5-10 psi. That would do a lot for the altitude problem as well as expanding the torque curve when you need to move the load. And since it would be an on-demand system that could be cut out, you get the benefit of the efficiency of the normally aspirated engine.
Old 05-01-2016, 01:25 AM
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Quick question I have heavy (65lbs) e rated 33.5" tires on the truck that I will be towing a light 3000lbs dry 5th wheel with. I'm thinking I should change back to my new p265/70/17 Ltx stockers for the trip which is about 2000miles through rocky mountains

Since it's an older trailer the pin weight is high at 25% or 620lbs so I'm near my rear axle and payload limit, about 200lbs less. Stockers are 2535 max load so higher than my axles so they are fine.

I am wondering about the squirm the tires will have. Will it be fine? I know the truck will pull better with the smaller/lighter tires.

Truck is 2013 xlt screw 157" 4x4 5.0 mpt eco87 tune/rear seat delete for two huge mastiffs...

Thx
Old 05-01-2016, 02:06 PM
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Default Towing a 5r

Three years now we have been escaping the summer heat by taking our Fox Mountain (Small, 28ft Arctic Fox) from Phoenix to Colorado.
The F150 SL super cab with 5.0 liter gasser has performed well as we have over 20K miles on the rig without a failure of any sort (other than a trailer tire blowout, a subject for another day).
The 2013 F150 has been modified to address the marginal weight issues:
Drilled and slotted rotors and high performance pads on the front brakes.
Trailer brake controller.
High capacity finned aluminum transmission pan.
High capacity finned aluminum differential cover.
Firestone "Ride-Rite" air bags.
Michelin LT tires.

There are many components on an F250 that are different than the F150, and many are the same.
The chassis is the same and the 6-speed tranny is the same.
The engine, rear axle, wheels, tires, springs and brakes are bigger, heavier and all but the mill add to the unsprung weight making for a rougher ride and worse fuel efficiency.
The 3.55 gears force the 6-speed tranny to use a lower gear so heating, especially when climbing the I17 grade on the way to Flagstaff on a hot summer day, is an important consideration. But the tranny temp needle barely moves even with worst-case conditions.
Specs for loading a vehicle like the F150 are really approximations that Ford engineers derive from models based upon expected worse case conditions. The real concern is not static load (which is all we can conveniently measure) but dynamic load, like when you hit a pothole at 65mph. So I've taken the load ratings and tried to address the most compelling issues with after-market modifications.
So far the results have been entirely gratifying.
I've climbed and descended most every pass in Colorado without a tense moment.
I've had to make emergency, maximum braking stops with excellent results, trailer brakes lock up, ABS brakes on the truck doing their thing, the rig stops straight and does so quickly.
So I'm still pleased with the F150 pulling my 5r, wouldn't trade it for a 250, and happy not to be driving a diesel.
Old 05-04-2016, 09:58 PM
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2013 150XLT Max tow pulling an open range 315BHS 8900lb dry weight and 1400# on the Pin. It's definitely heavy, but honestly pulls better then the 5000# TT I had. The open ranges are great, designed for 5.5 beds with 90 degree turn radius. Just need to get my airbags on the level it out, although it's not as big of sag as the TT


Last edited by Bfever; 05-04-2016 at 10:01 PM.


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