5.0 Engine Rattles when accelerating, pull all spark plugs, need help inspecting them
#11
Senior Member
Can't remember where I saw it but somewhere Ford says don't worry about a little bit of knocking. And your plugs don't look like they've been experiencing detonation except for, maybe, one tiny little piece of what might be metal on a single plug. Picture attached.
The center plug in his pictures is a new one for reference. That's why there's ten.
Today's engines all run lean so very light colored plugs are normal. Not really seeing a problem here. Might be chasing a ghost. And the carbon around the edges of the metal plug base show that it's not that lean. If you want the porcelain to get browner you could run a colder plug. But you might end up with fouling problems.
The center plug in his pictures is a new one for reference. That's why there's ten.
Today's engines all run lean so very light colored plugs are normal. Not really seeing a problem here. Might be chasing a ghost. And the carbon around the edges of the metal plug base show that it's not that lean. If you want the porcelain to get browner you could run a colder plug. But you might end up with fouling problems.
Last edited by BareBonesXL; 09-13-2018 at 05:12 PM.
#12
#13
Senior Member
Here's a thread with a picture of some 79,000 mile plugs. The engine burns a little bit of oil too. The PO ran a K&N air filter and the intake tube was pretty well dusted. Southern Oregon desert dust. Probably chewed up the oil rings. 2003 4.2 V6. I said it doesn't burn oil in the thread but realized later that it does.
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/plugs-f...hedule-408960/
https://www.f150forum.com/f6/plugs-f...hedule-408960/
Last edited by BareBonesXL; 09-13-2018 at 05:45 PM.
#14
Junior Member
I had a rattle like you're describing on my 2012 5.0 F-150. Turned out to be a broken spot weld holding the heat shield to the exhaust crossover pipe. I put a clamp on it- rattle gone.
Tom
Tom
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berlinbai (09-14-2018)
#15
Thanks!
#16
Senior Member
I had a similar problem with pinging, changed out the plugs at around 115, 000 miles . Pinging was less and few hundred miles my O2 sensor would bring in a code off and on changed it out on bank 2 and cured my problem plus the tranny shifted better. replaced with a Bosch O2 sensor from Rock Auto. I seem to remember that they are supposed to be changed out at an interval. wouldn't just go out and buy them but you can pull them and clean them, the pre cat ones, the expensive ones. This was on a V6 Ford Flex and had to pull the intake to get to back side plugs.
#17
Spark plugs all looked fine to me. I've always been told even on new engines you will get a second or two of "ping" on tip in under load before the computer senses the knock and adjusts timing/fuel. If you're pulling a hill and hear it for just a sec you're fine.. if it does it the whole time your pulling the hill.. then I'd be concerned. Also, Carbon build up in the compression chamber is often the cause of detonation ping. as the carbon deposits will stay hot like a little ember, and when fuel and air enter it will ignite causing the ping. I know fuel treatment and injector clearners are kind of snake oil and some swear by them and some swear them off.. but for $5 or $6 bucks, it may be worth the shot. You could always pull a plug and look at the cylinder with a bore scope and see what things look like inside. I'm no certified mechanic, just passing on what I've read/learned/seen. Good luck, keep us posted on your journey to a fix.
#18
FORD lifer
Spark plugs all looked fine to me. I've always been told even on new engines you will get a second or two of "ping" on tip in under load before the computer senses the knock and adjusts timing/fuel. If you're pulling a hill and hear it for just a sec you're fine.. if it does it the whole time your pulling the hill.. then I'd be concerned. Also, Carbon build up in the compression chamber is often the cause of detonation ping. as the carbon deposits will stay hot like a little ember, and when fuel and air enter it will ignite causing the ping. I know fuel treatment and injector clearners are kind of snake oil and some swear by them and some swear them off.. but for $5 or $6 bucks, it may be worth the shot. You could always pull a plug and look at the cylinder with a bore scope and see what things look like inside. I'm no certified mechanic, just passing on what I've read/learned/seen. Good luck, keep us posted on your journey to a fix.
My adopted father ran them for years, and his motors were a pleasure to work on. Carburetors varnished up on the outside, but whistle clean on the inside.
Combustion chambers - clean, intake ports - clean, plugs, clean.
Granted, he used an aggressive cleaner, Berrymans B12, and it isn't cheap, over $3.00 at Walmart, and that only treats 20 gallons per can, but it flat keeps stuff clean.
Let us know what cures it.