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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 07:22 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Beakster
Just jacked up the drivers side and when I rotate the wheel the drive shaft doesn't move. It doesn't move in 4wd or 2wd engine, on or off.
well wait a minute...is that with vacuum removed from the actuators? I wouldn't expect it to turn the drive shaft in 2WD.
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Russell Shettle
well wait a minute...is that with vacuum removed from the actuators? I wouldn't expect it to turn the drive shaft in 2WD.
No, but he's listed all conditions, it should rotate in 3 of the 4 listed conditions.
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Russell Shettle
well wait a minute...is that with vacuum removed from the actuators? I wouldn't expect it to turn the drive shaft in 2WD.
That was with everything connected. So it should have turned the shaft in 4wd mode. Will go do some more checks now.
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 07:45 PM
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Confirmed. Passenger side works fine. Drive shaft turns without vacuum and doesn't turn with vacuum
Drivers side never turns. When I rotate the wheel I can hear a clicking noise as I turn it.

I guess this means I need to replace the driver side IWE? Can I get these at Napa? Am I likely to need a new hub and driveshaft too?

I live out in the **** end of nowhere so once I take this thing apart I'm trapped until I get it back together, so need to make sure I have all I need.

Thanks
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 09:11 PM
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I suggest checking the Tasca online sales for the IWE as an OEM replacement. Some have had good luck with the aftermarket IWE but also some have not have long term success. I don't know how long they last but really depends on if you want to risk doing the work 2x. If the pricing is way different and funds are tight, we'll I'll go with the cheaper one just to get it back operational.

I'd order a wheel bearing too, in case the teeth on the bearing are damaged. If the teeth are good, send the bearing back and replace just the IWE, or return to Napa if you're buying locally.

Do you know the procedure for replcing the IWE with less risk of error during installation? Do you have a hand vacuum pump, like a mity vac? You can get the Harbor Freight version for cheap. You will need it to pull vacuum on the IWE during installation.

It sounds like Maxx has you all set up with testing ,etc. He's a good resource, he has done the troubleshooting in-depth and parts replacement on his own vehicle.
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 09:14 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 16IngotFX4
I suggest checking the Tasca online sales for the IWE as an OEM replacement. Some have had good luck with the aftermarket IWE but also some have not have long term success. I don't know how long they last but really depends on if you want to risk doing the work 2x. If the pricing is way different and funds are tight, we'll I'll go with the cheaper one just to get it back operational.

I'd order a wheel bearing too, in case the teeth on the bearing are damaged. If the teeth are good, send the bearing back and replace just the IWE, or return to Napa if you're buying locally.

Do you know the procedure for replcing the IWE with less risk of error during installation? Do you have a hand vacuum pump, like a mity vac? You can get the Harbor Freight version for cheap. You will need it to pull vacuum on the IWE during installation.

It sounds like Maxx has you all set up with testing ,etc. He's a good resource, he has done the troubleshooting in-depth and parts replacement on his own vehicle.

Ok, so 1 hub, 1 IWE, 1 vacuum pump and some CV grease and I should have all I need?

Should I get a drive shaft too incase it's damaged?
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 09:19 PM
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No drive shaft. Drive shaft is what connects the transfer case to the front differential.
Front axles, or half-shaft, I think is what you are referring to. I don't believe that has anything to do with the engagement though. IF the IWE is for sure tested bad.

You want the CV grease for the assembly of the IWE?

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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 09:21 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 16IngotFX4
No drive shaft. Drive shaft is what connects the transfer case to the front differential.
Front axles, or half-shaft, I think is what you are referring to. I don't believe that has anything to do with the engagement though. IF the IWE is for sure tested bad.

You want the CV grease for the assembly of the IWE?
Yes the half shaft is what I meant. Worried it could have been damage by not being fully engaged.

And the grease would be for fitting the IWE. Is there a particular kind?
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 09:46 PM
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I am not aware of potential for axle damage to be honest.

@[F2C]MaDMaXX may shed light on that subject.
I understand the concern though.

I'd use wheel bearing grease because that is what is in my cabinet. I'm sure the grease you're thinking of if fine.
Here is one of the commonly posted videos here for the replacement procedure. You'll see how the system works and what to R&R. Note the spindle nut as well, not to overtighten!
He explains a method he uses that doesn't require the use of a vacuum pump. I think @johnday in BFE is also successful in installing without the pump too.
I suggest not pulling the bearing until you get eyes on the teeth as confirmation that much disassembly is required.

That video does not show removal of the bearing.

This video is about the bearings though.

Fordtechmakuloco has a bearing video too if you prefer to check his out in addition.

Last edited by 16IngotFX4; Jan 18, 2021 at 09:51 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 12:39 AM
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That Fordtech video will give you all you need, I recommend the wheel bearing video he has too as between them you'll get the best perspective as to what you *need* to dismantle to get the job done the easiest.

Synth wheel bearing grease is needed when you do either the bearing or the IWE.

Unlikely the axle will be needed, assuming you did have something apart that caused this?

Vac pump is a nice to have for checks etc. But using his method inserting the CV axle end and some common sense, I never used mine during replacement as it was obviously in,or not.
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