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2013 5.0L dead in the water ( no crank no start, starting system fault )

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Old 12-08-2017, 07:50 PM
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Exclamation 2013 5.0L dead in the water ( no crank no start, starting system fault )

Well, I don't drive it a whole lot ( 48k currently, purchased 1yr ago @ 43k ) but I put 107 miles on it within the last month. Last time I ran it was to spin it around in the driveway and pulled into my garage. Now I have a no crank issue. It does not even want to try cranking, and it is throwing every warning light at me.

See the video below for exactly what its doing.

I read some stuff about loose ignitions on newer Ford vehicles. Jiggled the hell out of the key, nothing.

The battery itself looks original. It runs 12.3v with the key off, 11.8v with it on. Thinking perhaps that was too low to crank from maybe, but I tried to jump it properly, and doing this even with 14v at the battery it would not attempt to crank. I put it back on my battery tender and had 13.5v at the battery, turn key on it goes down to 12.3v again.

I looked over all fuses that are starter/relay, fuel, and ignition related. Nothing blown, nothing loose. I am aware there is a fuse relocation TSB for fuel pump, but my fuel pump is working and priming.

I checked starter connections, and did the hammer tap test, no crank. Turned the key on and tried screwdriver jumping the solenoid on the starter itself, it cranked, but would not fire up. All I can figure is communication from ignition to starter is gone. Again no rapid security light.

Is there an issue thats starting to go around with these trucks not cranking over I may have missed? ( like the fuel module on the '04/'08s causing no fuel pump power ). BCM related or anything in that manner?

I am fearing a ECU or BCM issue. It isn't custom tuned, runs every time flawless, garage kept, all it has is an Airaid Jr. and Roush catback. I am shocked it won't even crank. I only have 1 key for it so I can't try using another, and there isn't a security light on, nor is it blinking rapidly.

Thanks for any input folks.
-DarrenWS6
Old 12-08-2017, 08:02 PM
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Did you try removing the battery cables and touching them together?
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Old 12-08-2017, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Tothemax
Did you try removing the battery cables and touching them together?
For nothing to happen? Lol.
Old 12-08-2017, 08:37 PM
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I would try what Tothemax sez. It will get all the power bled down and reset everything (from what I understand). Good luck.
Old 12-08-2017, 09:17 PM
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How old is the battery?
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Old 12-08-2017, 09:32 PM
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The battery in my 14 dropped a cell earlier this year. Voltage was reading just like yours, but no warning lights, just wouldnt turn over.
Old 12-08-2017, 09:47 PM
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Regardless, its time for a new battery.
Old 12-09-2017, 06:38 PM
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It could very well be the original battery, it is a Motorcraft 750cca I don't see a date sticker on it though. I didn't mean to sound ignorant earlier on the response to touching terminals together either, re-reading it I didn't like my tone.

The thick cables barely make it able to do so but I got it, I also scuffed and re-applied the terminals and my connections for the Battery Tender Plus harness I use. I didn't have it connected to the tender too often this past summer so perhaps it is a bit beat with inactive use and normal draw. My 2007 died a lot towards the last year the battery was good, but it did the normal 'click-click-click' as it tried starting. I know these newer trucks are a different animal but I figured it would still click with a low wattage battery. Is it noted anywhere about what the lowest volt drop is for ignition start-up? I can't seem to find it.

I removed the battery last night and brought it inside. It reads 12.90v in the room temperature. I guess next move will be to buy a replacement and see how it goes. If no improvement, then i'll know it must not be the battery and there is certainly an electrical fault. Will respond with result. Thanks.

Last edited by DarrenWS6; 12-09-2017 at 06:40 PM.
Old 12-09-2017, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DarrenWS6
It could very well be the original battery, it is a Motorcraft 750cca I don't see a date sticker on it though. I didn't mean to sound ignorant earlier on the response to touching terminals together either, re-reading it I didn't like my tone.

The thick cables barely make it able to do so but I got it, I also scuffed and re-applied the terminals and my connections for the Battery Tender Plus harness I use. I didn't have it connected to the tender too often this past summer so perhaps it is a bit beat with inactive use and normal draw. My 2007 died a lot towards the last year the battery was good, but it did the normal 'click-click-click' as it tried starting. I know these newer trucks are a different animal but I figured it would still click with a low wattage battery. Is it noted anywhere about what the lowest volt drop is for ignition start-up? I can't seem to find it.

I removed the battery last night and brought it inside. It reads 12.90v in the room temperature. I guess next move will be to buy a replacement and see how it goes. If no improvement, then i'll know it must not be the battery and there is certainly an electrical fault. Will respond with result. Thanks.
My original battery gave up the ghost less than a year after I bought the truck(new), been rocking a wallyworld battery ever since. $100 or so and a 5yr warranty, it's made by the same company that makes the Motorcraft oem battery, Johnson Controls.
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Old 04-21-2020, 12:48 AM
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I hate to revive an old thread but I’m having this same issue. I just had a long block replacement done a couple weeks ago and everything seemed fine. Two nights ago I went to start it and it showed service braking system, service adancetrac, and hill climb assist fault and would not start. We hooked it up to jumper cables and it turned right on. Got it home and after checking the battery found out it was bad. I replaced the battery yesterday and it seemed to work fine then today I’m going to leave my house and it stalls in the driveway and throws low oil pressure warning. Start it up again and it was fine. I park it and come to start it up in a few hours later and it’s doing the same thing as the other day not starting and throwing warnings. I disconnected the battery to test it (good battery) hooked it back up. It must’ve reset and it started normal. I’m afraid I’m running into some sort of electrical issue. I have a code reader but my father has it at work with him. It’s a 2013 5.0 with 129,xxx miles and there’s 300 miles on the new long block.


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