026TB4U

I have a 2013 and I get an occasion rough idle. I only have 3500 miles, so we'll see.

I have also noticed some slight bogging during low-rpm, slow acceleration usually between 30-45 mph. But then I floor it and it's great, so I'm confused.

Jake's Dad

Rock auto tells me that the 5.0 takes NGK iridium IX 6509, or #LTR6IX11.

Has anyone tried these?

JD

svt2205

Someone commented about a smaller gap on the 11. Be careful what source you use for determining the gap as the owners guide shows a smaller gap than the service manual does. The service manual matches the info posted in this thread and the stock replacement plugs are gapped in that same .049-.051 range. I believe the owners guide has incorrect info. My 11 runs great at .051

Jake's Dad

I pulled all the plugs and replaced them with NGK 6509. They are gapped from the factory at .044. I left them like that at install. I have only driven to work. It idles fine. There is no shutter at 50-55 any longer. I will follow up in a week or so.

barkdog67

Still running good. I thought about doing the same but those plugs aren't cheap and mine only has 25,000 miles on them. Mine only dose it at idle and I'm skeptical about it being the plugs seems as though it shouldve thrown a misfire code if it was the plugs.

bsrobins

I'm still trying to figure out why y'all are saying don't use anti-seize? Did anyone else have issues getting the stock plugs out of their heads? Mine kept getting hung up trying to get them out. I used anti-seize when I put my stock plugs back in and they slid in like glass. I've been using anti-seize on aluminum headed vehicles for years with no problems. I don't see why it is now all the sudden a problem.

gDMJoe

+1

The only problems that I've seen with anti-seize were caused by slathering the threads with it.
.

MGD

Hi.

Wellsir - in a nutshell, a nickel-plated plug, like most other MC's we use, is not reactive within an aluminum head.

So - according to Ford, and a passel of EX-Ford experts, it is not necessary.

Having said that I, Like a few others still apply a teensy-weensy amount, and adjust torque accordingly. And ol' Joe is right - don't dip the dang threads in the can of A/S, lol.

The issue is a lot of others do NOT account fer the tq adjustment necessary and end up over-torquing and/or apply it like they're basting a rack o' baby-backs

These things need changed at 60K (or sooner) intervals anyway, so installing them dry at the proper tq will not present an issue at removal. I've done it both ways - made no substantive difference to me.

In the 'olden days' fer all you geezers out there (like me), we did not HAVE nickel-plated plugs, so A/S was mandatory. All kinds o' dissimilar metals doggerel.

A good reference - repost probably - cain't remember - geezer, aight?

==> http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php

And another one - these are the EX-Ford folks I mentioned above - Refer to FAQ's # 51 and #52.

http://blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm#Q: Do you use Anti-Seize when you install new spark plugs

Anyhoo, That be me story'n ah'm a'stickin' to 'er

Good luck fellas