2012 5.0L - higher temps after T-stat and WP replacement
 

Replaced water pump, thermostat, and several o-ring's on some of the coolant hoses. I fixed the coolant leaks in the driveway, but now after about 30 minutes of driving on the highway, at slower speeds both radiator fans are running on high. The analog temperature gauge is slightly to the right side of middle (for some reason this seemed different to me, I thought it was usually on the left of middle) after driving for about 20 minutes on the highway. Fans never used to kick on for this exact commute I take every day. Temps outside are about 55F. I get plenty of heat from the heater and the ac is off. I notice a swooshing sound passenger side right after start up so I suspect there may still be air in the system. Other thoughts are maybe the thermostat jiggle valve is in the wrong clocking position (I could not find any schematics or good instruction on placement for the 5.0L). I put it at the highest location so it points up to the sky. Truck has 139000 miles.

Any advice? I have a bluetooth scanner showing up tomorrow night so I can grab real temperature data (hopefully).

Vote air in the system.
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2nd.

How do you get the air out of the system?

To bleed it on day 1, I started it up heater on high and got to operating temp and squeezed the upper radiator hose with degas cap off. At first I could feel quite a bit of sloshing, but after repeating this several times I put the cap back on. Day 2, I parked it with the front end uphill and did the youtube video procedure where you idle for 30 rev to 3500rpm and idle again for 30. Did this several times as well. I am also pretty sure these systems are supposed to be self degassing over time.

Still in the same predicament. I guess air could still be trapped but this morning I did not hear the sloshing out of heater core? at startup so I think most if not all the air is gone. Thermostat was an O'Reilly 190f one....maybe its only partially working. The temp gauge definitely gets up to about 3/4 when I am coasting from hwy speeds to a stop but then after 20 seconds it starts dropping to 1/2 again. I just never remember my temp gauge going higher than 1/2. Radiator fans are high speed the entire time.

I put a scan tool on it tonight and it did not find any DTCs
I will run it while I drive tomorrow to see how hot it gets

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1. Take reservoir cap off.
2. Turn on heater. *-floor- setting will do
3. Turn temperature control to -HOT-
4. Turn fan to -HIGH-
5. Let vehicle idle and get-up to operating temp'.
6. Standby with water/coolant mixture to add to reservoir

I want to know also.

My Jeep GC actually has a bleed port just for this.
But Ford puts oil filters on sideways, so no clue how they do it.

Updated info on fans running after warming up....
Not sure what temp the fans kicked on high because of driving speed and road noise, but they did not stop running (as far as I could tell) until I turned the ignition off after 45 minutes of driving.
The maximum temperature I saw being sent to my scan tool was 231.8F. For the majority of the commute the temp was about 226-230F and I was driving 62mph on flat roads. Outside temperature is 48F. The gauge on my instrument cluster was about midway between L and H.

So, the question is, what temp does the fan kick on, what temp does is go to low and should my truck be operating at 230F?

215°F

http://www.gdmjoe.com/dunno.gif ... never had mine operate at speed other than low.
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Why would the fan need to be on high? It has nothing to do with coolant.