07rattle

Talked to the dealer yesterday and according to his info he was reading from, the only no crank conditions were form guys adding accessory to there trucks and not tightening the battery terminals tight enough. Well that wasn't the case with mine but I told him I would check the basic stuff first like the terminals. I did that and now it starts every time. So until it acts up again just keep my fingers crossed. That's for the assistance FordService.


I do throw a battery tender on my truck every once in a whilet , Hook it up directly to the battery terminals . Since this start happening to me I been having it on almost every week. Still have 8 months left on warranty so I am not sweeting yet. The dealer I go to are very stand up guys and I am very happy with the work they do for me. He told me to bring it down but I want to wait til it starts acting up again.

Feathermerchant

OK Reason I asked the question above is on the late model trucks, there is a current sensor on the negative (-) battery lead. It allows the ECU to measure the charge entering and leaving the battery. The manual says when adding an accessory connect the negative wire of the accessory to the chassis and not directly to the battery. Connecting to the battery would bypass the current sensor. So maybe the negative wire of the tender should go to a chassis ground and not the battery.
I can get a pic of the sensor when it warms up a bit.

ff150350

My 2011 ecoboost has been perfect except for one day about a year ago. After having dinner went to leave and just click, no start. After many clicks and tries it started and has worked flawlessly for almost a year. Until the other night in neg temps after a supper, click, click. Many clicks under pass seat. After many tries it finally started. Now of course works perfect, talked to dealer who hasn't got back to me yet. Saw in one post who had same problem that they had replaced the pcm so maybe that's what mine needs.

HankHill

I seem to have the same problem lately. Sometimes starts sometimes wont. (2011 F150 Eco boost )This started happening about a week ago. Keep trying and eventually it will startup. Then once it starts I cannot make it not start except waiting overnight or some period of time later. Then it will happen again. Battery is only 3 months old but does not seem to be the issue. When I keep attempting to start it and it eventually starts, I can immediately shut off and on again and again with no battery failure. I also noticed no orange light on the shift indicator. Shifter is on the column. Any Ideas? relay etc. No charge accessory installed or ever used

ji603

Are you guys checking fuse 27 in the engine bay for signs of excess heat? It's the fuel pump fuse

HankHill

checked fuse 27 pristine

HankHill

Yes I confirmed the no start condition happens when I go to start the engine and there is NO orange gear selection lit. It will not start. , but when I move the gear selector through its ranges and keep trying, eventually the gear selection will light up orange and will start up. Every time the gear selection is lit it will start. When it is not , it will not spin over.2011 f150 Eco boost XLT Column shifter.

Feathermerchant

Start/No start, turnover, etc - Does that mean crank but not fire or not crank?

HankHill

. My case is most likely different from OP. I do not have all dead condition. Just the stater fails to engage without moving the gear selector through the ranges to get the gear selector light working again so the starter will engage. I am think something amiss with the Park Neutral safety mechanism or switch. I am early into this issue, but so far I have always been able to get it started when it happens by moving through the gears and re attempting starting.

Stevieiowa

I have a 2011 F150 5.0 liter Cyote. Hoping someone can give me some insight to my current issue
I was driving my truck that I just recently bought. Very impressed with it . Driving at about 60mph and i hear a beep look at the dash when the motor just stiopped ruing lit the key was shut off and there was a check engine light and a wrench light. I came a stop on the shoulder of the road. Try to restart it and the starter keeps engaging after I turned the ignition to the off oosition. So I Google the problem and there is a video on utube. The guy said two possible reasons one was the 20 Amp fuse located in space27. May need a clean up and new fuse installed. The small low profile fuse. That being done on the shoulder of a busy highway with way below freezing windy snowing conditions. Would not start. So I use starting fluid on it. And that started it as long as the starting fluid was being sprayed. I put 5gals of gas thinking it may be a faulty gas gage. Still no start. So my son picked me up and we trailer the truck back to my home. The next day contains weather wire still very very cold. I try the fuse thing again. And pull the kick panel off on the passenger side floor board. Check all the connectors there. Still no start and this aggravating starter staying engaged even after the key is off. Call the local mechanic in our small town and he hooks up to OBD 2 for a diagnostic. Results say change the fuel pump relay. Today I pull the relay and replace with a new one. Located at the rear by the spare tire. And yes you guessed it. Same thing no start and starter staying engaged. So with have a day research I am slowly loosing my mind because it painfully obvious no one has any idea what or how to fix this truck. And I'm seriously thinking after only having this truck for about 10 day. That I made a 10,000 Dollar mistake buying is beautiful piece of yard art. If anyone can give me any insight to how to fix my truck you would be my hero for the day.. Because I really do need my truck this time of year in Iowa is not Chevy Camaro weather.