If anyone does plan to lemon the vehicle or seek other forms of litigation against Ford prepare for them to lie straight to you and the arbitrator. Fortunately for me I had all my ducks in a row, paperwork wise, and a vehicle riddled with issues. A 10 minute ride with the arbitrator and they saw/felt enough. But that didn't stop the Ford reps from trying to place blame on me for everything from my driving habits to abusing the vehicle to non-OEM tires. When my replacement truck started having issues I was given the coldest shoulder at every dealer service center.

It's sad when I know people with $15k Scion's that get 100x's better service than I did with a $50k Ford.

 

My 2011 EB had the prob where it would misfire/lose power on hard acceleration and ended up taking it to the dealer and they told me it needed the deflector plate and said it wasn't covered so the service rep gave me fords number I called and let them know what was going on the following week the manager at ford called me saying was going to cover the charges so I took it back after paying the $85 service fee and the put the deflector plate for the intercooler and ended up replacing all the spark plugs cause there suppose to be gapped at .032 and one of them was at .4 and I didn't have to pay a cent....hope this helps

 

uh60mip:

Didn't use the K&N, and I'm glad you said something because I was considering it! I wonder if others out there had the same issue.

Question though, couldn't the mechanic just wipe the plugs clean then put them back in?

Glad you issue was resolved.

JD

 

Well, I have posted on here a couple times that I had the TSB done on my 2012 screw and it fixed it. But I now find that it didn't. I ran cruise in the rain steady for two hours on the way home from Fremont last week in the rain, and when I punched it to go around a car, it sputtered and lost all the power again. I let off the gas and let it catch its breath for a couple hundred yards, just feathering the gas and feeling for when it was back, and then went on as usual. I'm certainly dissapointed.
It used to take just 30 minutes in the rain to get it to it, now it takes it 2 hours, new CAC, deflector and all.
I'll not have another one.

D

 

I'm up to 84k mi and just started to have a slight miss at wot on interstate ramp a couple weeks ago. Not too concerned since it cleared up running premium, then comes back under regular 87. Found plugs tonight and took all out and regapped...most looked to worn to about eh...42 to 45...regapped to about 32 and put them back in. Quick trip up the road and back runs good. Been through the cac and left side cat replace at about 30 k mi or so and only one stall since in wet weather. Twice since I've had the truck total. It's scary. I keep thinking the shudder at. 55 has to be plug related but I'm easily wrong. Somebody mentioned oil from k&n filter messing up plugs??? Seems like plugs would be hot enough to burn off anything like that and it would have to be a vapor to come from the filter. Naaa... If you have seen a plug covered in oil and still fire somehow.. I ran a k&n 242 k miles on my old 2005 5.4 and changed originals at 120k and traded it with the 2nd set still in it. It's not the oil from the filter.

 

Why not? Then add in the turbos. Guys are gapping their plugs down to 0.025 that are running high boost, so let's add up potentially dirty plugs and a gap that might be a bit wide for upper boost. My understanding is the boost is what wants to blowout your spark, thus the smaller gap to prevent blowout.

 

That sounds frustrating, Daveleeander. Shoot me a PM with your information; I want to do what I can to help. Be sure to include your name, daytime phone number, current mileage, VIN, and dealership in your message.

Crystal

 

The older trucks weren't as sensitive. The newer trucks, with the extra heat generated in the engine compartment (smog equipment, etc.) seem to cause the issue. The K&N filters come pre-oiled from their factory at a pre-set amount/rate. It seems the extra heat in the new engines causes the oil to vaporize just enough that it gets to the plugs and MAF sensor. When I had the issue, both the plugs and sensor showed a baked-on red residue that was the oil from the filter. As soon as I switched back to a dry filter, I never had another problem. The MAF sensor issue made the truck think it was at a much higher altitude, which also caused rough running. That said, K&N provided awesome support and reimbursed me for the cost of the service from the local Ford dealer. So I certainly can't fault K&N for the way they back their products. I'm currently using an AiRaid SynthAir dry filter that gives me the same filtering capability that I had with the K&N, but in a non-oil format (but a more expensive filter, I have to admit).

I too ran K&N filters for over 15 years in various vehicles, most recently: '00 Volvo, '96 Dakota, '06 Dakota, '06 F-250 6.0 SD, '13 Explorer EB, without any issues. So, to me, it's an issue with the new design engines. Just what I encountered. Hope this is useful.

 

77,000 miles and have not had any problems until yesterday.

It was dry no rain for 24 hrs. Towing 6,000lb trailer into head wind. Pulling harder than normal. I have a ultragauge mounted. Boost pressure running from plus 7 to 17 lb and cat temps 1600 degrees running about 68 mph up and down hills. Tach 3000 rpm plus or minus. Never have had it pull this hard. This had been for about 75 miles. Truck pulls out in front of me so I punch it to go around.

It lost power and started shaking like it had a flat tire. I did get around the truck but engine lite was on and had no power. No place to pull over so I continued about to miles trying not to give it anymore gas than I need. But each time I gave it gas it started shaking violently.

I was finally able to pull over and stop. Light went off and idled smooth. Check gauge for trouble code. None..... So I checked pending codes and it displayed P0300 =1
Ran fine for the next 40 miles. Had to stop at toll booth and while accelerating about 40 mph it began to shake and sputter Check engine light comes on and then cleared up. Checked pending codes and now I have P0303 and P0300 =2.

Just 3 weeks ago I came out of Las Vegas pulling same trailer but 8,000 lbs and took I 40 to Wichita, Ks. Ran 70 most of the way and got 12.5 mpg and it never hiccuped once. Even at 8,000 feet altitude. And in the beginning I was using 85 octane.

Bought gas at Murphy's in Bartlesville, Ok. I have bought from Murphy's before so maybe bad gas. Don't know.

So my take is Spark plugs don't fix themselves, nor do coils, or wires. But with these engines the one thing that changes thru all the RPM's Load and Power is the Timing. Is it possible the Timing can't adjust itself fast enough to compensate for the extreme changes in Power, Load, RPM's? And because of this it will misfire and then the Computer gets a brain fart and can't correct it until all conditions are back to normal?
Before computers timing was one of the things that was hard to get right thru all driving ranges.
In the case of these EcoBoost it says it is a random misfire because the spark knock sensor has detected knocking.
Just a thought.
So now I have no warranty and I hope this never happens again. LOL

 

If you are not tuned, then tune it! Just a SCT canned tune will do! The sock tune is absolutely garbage! You are out of warranty anyway, but will gain some power and fuel economy!
I have had the condensation issue with mine both tuned and stock, when it happened stock, it was pretty much like everyone has described here. When it happened while tuned it was like bad gas and down on power!
There are a few other steps a person can take, PM me if you are interested?