TheRevJosh

I'm not suggesting anyone use any heat range, I'm simply pointing out your inconsistent advice.
And you are the one telling him to use a colder plug since a 7 is colder than a 6.
http://www.championsparkplugs.com/le...nversion-chart

Examples:

From this thread: https://www.f150forum.com/f70/spark-...isited-183330/
From this thread: https://www.f150forum.com/f70/eco-sp...8/#post2352166

maplelakeduckslayer

Unhooked my battery cables for a few hours last night...no change not that I expected anything to, just figured I'd see.

Couple snow storms coming in over the next few days but may let the dealer take it one more time middle of next week.

Just for S's and G's I may switch plugs out again this weekend and see if it drives nice again for a few days.

Dwl0222285

Can I ask u guys is this shudder real bad? I ask because I installed a afe intake in Friday, drove with it all weekend and Monday but didnt like how it felt. Idled rough for some reason and seemed to actually kill my gas mileage and power. I took it off Tuesday but the truck still has not seemed the same, then I'm drivin an notice a little "vibration" between 50-60 mph. It is pretty subtle so I don't know if its just my mind playing tricks on me or what. I have the 5.0 4x4 and only 8800 miles on my '12 supercrew. Thanks guys.

VoiceOfReason

Your reply is merely suggesting that you do not understand what is happening and you are not qualified to discuss this subject nor dispense advice on how to rectify it.

Of course legally speaking neither am I, but then again I have multiple Ecoboost vehicles which I am able to replicate these issues on and then repair, so take it as you will.


Maplelake, LTR7IX-11, use proper gapping procedure to set them at 0.032", torque to 10-low teens lb/ft, and drive a bit more aggressively (albeit safely.)

jayandsam09

But you are using the 6 range gapped at .034? Or, have those not worked out and caused you to switch back to the 7's gapped at .032?

TheRevJosh

No, my post was merely suggesting that neither do you.

benelli

No, the shudder isn't real bad. It's very subtle, I've had to point it out to some of my friends who thought they didn't have it. You can add yourself to the '60 MPH (under light load) Shudder Club"
Welcome!

Dwl0222285

Oh wonderfull. Well I have had the truck for a little over a month, didnt recognize it for the first 3 weeks. I have seen that some people say the dealer is doing some kind of computer reprogram or something to help solve the problem. Am I correct? What I'm thinking is, did me unplugging the battery to install my intake possibly reprogram the computer program causing the shudder to come back from before I owned the truck?

VoiceOfReason

I have both heat ranges, currently running 6's. I mostly resolved my issues by regapping my plugs to .032" (they were WAY out) and changing fuel blends. Waiting for this year's summer blend changeover to put the 7's in and continue.

The pictures of Maplelakes' plugs show the engine/computer is fine, the plugs/cylinders are slightly hot. The only thing the computer can do to lower the combustion chamber temps with Maplelakes foot on the pedal is dump more fuel and/or cut boost. This starts a viscious cycle as the truck does not respond as expected: eventually Maplelake mashes pedal, computer tries to respond WHILE still trying to protect the engine = loss of power.

Workaround: 1 step colder plugs.
Pros: Might fix your problem
Cons: Could foul early. Drive more aggressively.

Dwl0222285

I find it odd in my case that my shudder issue and power loss started the day I filled up my tank, and also the day I installed my intake. I have since taken out the intake after just 3 days because I didnt like how it was performing with it. The bad performance along with the shudder continued without the intake, but I'm still on the same tank. Is there anyway that maybe I got a bad batch of gas? I think I'm just hoping its not the "shudder issue" everyone else is having but it just seems odd at how and when it started. Thanks for your input.