2011+ 55-60mph 5.0 Shuddering and EcoBoost Engine Miss/Loss of Power - Possible Fixes
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 927
Likes: 88
Originally Posted by VoiceOfReason
Remove oil cap, pull off engine cover, pull off foam insulator. Reinstall oil cap.
Disconnect coilpack connectors (slide red locking tab out first, then depress center clip)
Disconnect valve electrical connector (under foam,driver side)
Disconnect vacuum swing arm (turn plastic compression spring sleeve then pull up,driver side.)
You can now access each coilpack and spark plug.
The only other vehicle that has been this easy to get at ALL of the plugs is my Mazda Protege5, which reminds me...
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 834
Likes: 130
From: Western Oklahoma
I checked mine last week, all were .040 or greater. Put them all to .034, idle is smoother and gas mileage checked at 21.5 on the highway. Was getting average of 20.5, runs great. Haven't had the shuddering at all but didn't expect to as low as the humidity is around here.
Last edited by brucesears; Sep 25, 2012 at 11:27 AM. Reason: missed the zeros
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 149
Likes: 27
I've got some more data and perhaps some useful action points for you to try if you haven't already done so.
First and foremost would be that there is a fairly widespread issue with spark plug gap, and this issue it not Ford specific either and is not new. Do yourself a favour and at least eliminate this issue by either pulling your factory plugs and if they are ok, reset your gaps to .032" (low side of factory spec for the Ecoboost) or buy new plugs (remember to regap them as well!)
NGK part no is LTR6IX-11
I believe if you are having SEVERE stumbling, the "fall on face" power loss issue, or some driveability annoyances this will at least improve your situation. It probably won't cure the shuddering.
I'm really doubting the shuddering is caused by moisture buildup in the intercooler. As I've said before, engines can handle a rather large amount of water ingested by the intake and still run. I'm not ruling it out, as it may be adding to the problem, but what seems more likely is that there is either a pressure differential between the two cylinder banks, or turbulence within the cylinders/intake plenum disturbing the fuel charge in ultra/lean mode (such as at cruise/light load).
I've had the shuddering at all temps, the first time I noticed it was shortly after buying the truck, it was 35 Celcius, dry, long trip, and on regular gas.
I put the new plugs in, ran through my remaining tank of Petro Canada 89 Plus (Ethanol) with improved driveability, no shudder, etc. Filled up with 87 Regular Petro Canada (Ethanol), driveability still improved, but the shuddering returned. Mileage also returned to about 15L/100 which I had before on regular. I'm getting about 12L/100 on 89.
So......... new plugs. Gap to .032". Run quality mid grade.
First and foremost would be that there is a fairly widespread issue with spark plug gap, and this issue it not Ford specific either and is not new. Do yourself a favour and at least eliminate this issue by either pulling your factory plugs and if they are ok, reset your gaps to .032" (low side of factory spec for the Ecoboost) or buy new plugs (remember to regap them as well!)
NGK part no is LTR6IX-11
I believe if you are having SEVERE stumbling, the "fall on face" power loss issue, or some driveability annoyances this will at least improve your situation. It probably won't cure the shuddering.
I'm really doubting the shuddering is caused by moisture buildup in the intercooler. As I've said before, engines can handle a rather large amount of water ingested by the intake and still run. I'm not ruling it out, as it may be adding to the problem, but what seems more likely is that there is either a pressure differential between the two cylinder banks, or turbulence within the cylinders/intake plenum disturbing the fuel charge in ultra/lean mode (such as at cruise/light load).
I've had the shuddering at all temps, the first time I noticed it was shortly after buying the truck, it was 35 Celcius, dry, long trip, and on regular gas.
I put the new plugs in, ran through my remaining tank of Petro Canada 89 Plus (Ethanol) with improved driveability, no shudder, etc. Filled up with 87 Regular Petro Canada (Ethanol), driveability still improved, but the shuddering returned. Mileage also returned to about 15L/100 which I had before on regular. I'm getting about 12L/100 on 89.
So......... new plugs. Gap to .032". Run quality mid grade.
Last edited by VoiceOfReason; Sep 24, 2012 at 06:32 PM.
The Macho King
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 803
Likes: 139
From: Las Vegas, NV
New plugs are in. Immediate difference in idle, smoother accelleration, and gee whiz, smoother shifting.
Here are the stock plugs from my 2011 FX4 Ecoboost. Laid out same as in engine, bottom plugs are the front of the truck, top plugs are the cab, right side is the driver side.
All of them were gapped at .040" except for the middle right, which was gapped at .045".
The new plugs, NGK LTR6IX-11, were all gapped at .045" or higher out of the box, which I regapped down to between .030" and .032".
Considering the plug manufacturers and the Ford service manuals say NOT to regap the plugs, yet the plugs are coming out the factory outside of the spec, this is obviously something that engineering/technicians will have to look at. Simply driving into a Ford dealer, having the tech check the plugs and finding them out of spec, only to replace them with another factory plug that is also out of spec will accomplish nothing.
Even if you believe that moisture in the intercooler is the root cause of your problems, you would be wise to at least check the gap on your factory plugs and regap them down to the minimum spec if you are so mechanically inclined. I will explain:
Most people believe that it is the actual electricity of the spark which causes the fuel/air mixture to ignite, which is incorrect. It is actually the HEAT energy generated by the electrical current which gets the flame front going.
Water happens to be an excellent heat SINK, and when it is moving through the intake piping, it atomizes quite well (think spray mister.) There isn't enough to choke out the engine or hydrolock it, but just enough to rob enough heat from the spark and cause a misfire/incomplete combustion, and there's your rough idle, shuddering, clogged cats.
Here are the stock plugs from my 2011 FX4 Ecoboost. Laid out same as in engine, bottom plugs are the front of the truck, top plugs are the cab, right side is the driver side.
All of them were gapped at .040" except for the middle right, which was gapped at .045".
The new plugs, NGK LTR6IX-11, were all gapped at .045" or higher out of the box, which I regapped down to between .030" and .032".
Considering the plug manufacturers and the Ford service manuals say NOT to regap the plugs, yet the plugs are coming out the factory outside of the spec, this is obviously something that engineering/technicians will have to look at. Simply driving into a Ford dealer, having the tech check the plugs and finding them out of spec, only to replace them with another factory plug that is also out of spec will accomplish nothing.
Even if you believe that moisture in the intercooler is the root cause of your problems, you would be wise to at least check the gap on your factory plugs and regap them down to the minimum spec if you are so mechanically inclined. I will explain:
Most people believe that it is the actual electricity of the spark which causes the fuel/air mixture to ignite, which is incorrect. It is actually the HEAT energy generated by the electrical current which gets the flame front going.
Water happens to be an excellent heat SINK, and when it is moving through the intake piping, it atomizes quite well (think spray mister.) There isn't enough to choke out the engine or hydrolock it, but just enough to rob enough heat from the spark and cause a misfire/incomplete combustion, and there's your rough idle, shuddering, clogged cats.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 183
Likes: 5
From: Bradford, PA
My dealership is trying to get me to trade in my truck on a new truck to eliminate my problem. I recently spoke to another guy who did pull the trigger on a '12 FX4 with the 5.0L engine. He told me that he really misses the EcoBoost and wishes he would have tried another one. Anyway, based on this, I went back to the dealership Monday and explained that I don't want to make the same mistake that the other guy made .... I wanna give the EcoBoost another shot.
So, we took one for a test drive - '12 super crew, 4x4 XLT, 3.31 gears. Took it over a few hills to get the tranny warmed up, and then onto a newly paved, very smooth road. Set the cruise control at 55, dropped the tranny into manual mode - 6th gear, and hit the cruise control + button 10 times. The truck started to shudder almost immediately. I then drove the salesman back to the dealership and told him and the GM that we aren't solving anything by putting my into a new truck that does the same thing. I'm gonna hold out for a fix or my arbitration case to be settled.
This kinda sucked because it was a nice truck. Had a few options that were on my '06, but not on my current truck, which I really miss. They offered to take my truck and let me drive the new one off the lot with the same payments and term, nothing down. It had to be the best deal coming out of that dealership in years. They are tough to haggle with.
So, we took one for a test drive - '12 super crew, 4x4 XLT, 3.31 gears. Took it over a few hills to get the tranny warmed up, and then onto a newly paved, very smooth road. Set the cruise control at 55, dropped the tranny into manual mode - 6th gear, and hit the cruise control + button 10 times. The truck started to shudder almost immediately. I then drove the salesman back to the dealership and told him and the GM that we aren't solving anything by putting my into a new truck that does the same thing. I'm gonna hold out for a fix or my arbitration case to be settled.
This kinda sucked because it was a nice truck. Had a few options that were on my '06, but not on my current truck, which I really miss. They offered to take my truck and let me drive the new one off the lot with the same payments and term, nothing down. It had to be the best deal coming out of that dealership in years. They are tough to haggle with.
Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 52
Likes: 1
I feel your pain.
well decided to check my plugs today.
2012 5.0 7600 miles.
all 8 plugs were gapped around .050. I closed the gasp on them all to around .035. took for a small test drive and it seemed "better" but not 100% fixed. so in all honesty it probably didnt change at all, I was just hoping I had fixed it.
the mind sure is a powerful thing isnt it.
I have a 250 miles round trip up into the mountains of PA tomorrow so I will have a more definite answer if it did in fact get any better worse or no change when I get home.
2012 5.0 7600 miles.
all 8 plugs were gapped around .050. I closed the gasp on them all to around .035. took for a small test drive and it seemed "better" but not 100% fixed. so in all honesty it probably didnt change at all, I was just hoping I had fixed it.
the mind sure is a powerful thing isnt it.
I have a 250 miles round trip up into the mountains of PA tomorrow so I will have a more definite answer if it did in fact get any better worse or no change when I get home.