2010 SCrew rear door ajar issues.........
#41
Senior Member
I repaired my left side rear yesterday. Only two were broken (Green and purple) but had three more with insulation broken. I went ahead and skinned them back, and soldered the open area. I let the heat sink in and the solder ran up and down the wires a little. Made them much stiffer, right up to the pin going into the connector. Now I realize that it made the weak spot just move, but I believe the stiff plastic rod is over that area, and it shouldn't bend.
However, does anyone know the part number for just the harness that goes into the door? I have a 2012 Screw XLT. I tried to find it online and had no luck. The number that was on my sticker (harness made in mexico) was not a good number according to several websites.
Dave
However, does anyone know the part number for just the harness that goes into the door? I have a 2012 Screw XLT. I tried to find it online and had no luck. The number that was on my sticker (harness made in mexico) was not a good number according to several websites.
Dave
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timz (05-30-2017)
#42
Junior Member
I repaired my left side rear yesterday. Only two were broken (Green and purple) but had three more with insulation broken. I went ahead and skinned them back, and soldered the open area. I let the heat sink in and the solder ran up and down the wires a little. Made them much stiffer, right up to the pin going into the connector. Now I realize that it made the weak spot just move, but I believe the stiff plastic rod is over that area, and it shouldn't bend.
However, does anyone know the part number for just the harness that goes into the door? I have a 2012 Screw XLT. I tried to find it online and had no luck. The number that was on my sticker (harness made in mexico) was not a good number according to several websites.
Dave
However, does anyone know the part number for just the harness that goes into the door? I have a 2012 Screw XLT. I tried to find it online and had no luck. The number that was on my sticker (harness made in mexico) was not a good number according to several websites.
Dave
WIRE ASSEMBLY - JUMPER - FORD (9L3Z-14630-CAA)
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/9l3z14630caa
I was able to butt splice the wires back together, but i'm not sure how long that will last! I think eventually i'll just have to buy a new harness.
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Daveleeander (07-16-2017)
#43
I still have the same problem. My rear left door ajar came on and I spent time replacing the latch assembly with abused one and still the same issue. I replaced the use one with yet another used one and still the same problem. But along with the ajar warning, the dome light stays on for a few minutes then goes off while driving. The auto lock unlock is on but the door locks stay open. Is there a fuse that could be part of the issue?
#44
Have the same issue except the wire is broken almost flush with the connector. I'm currently at the beach on vacation. Do you think the door ajar will kill my battery. I won't be going home for 9 days?
Eric
Eric
#45
Junior Member
Enjoy your vacation!
-Tim
#46
Senior Member
To help out anyone needing the door wire harness, there appears to be a left and right one.
Passenger side rear: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...14630-caa.html
Driver side rear: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...14631-caa.html
The description says it fits from 2010 to 2014 without heated rear seats. i also contacted Tasca to confirm this was the one for my truck.
I've spiced mine twice now and finally bought the harness for the next time it acts up.....hopefully not during winter.
Hope this helps someone out.
Passenger side rear: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...14630-caa.html
Driver side rear: https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...14631-caa.html
The description says it fits from 2010 to 2014 without heated rear seats. i also contacted Tasca to confirm this was the one for my truck.
I've spiced mine twice now and finally bought the harness for the next time it acts up.....hopefully not during winter.
Hope this helps someone out.
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ak_cowboy (05-05-2020)
#47
My drivers door window would not work sometimes in my 2011. If I turned the key to accessories and paused for a second before starting it would work.
If I started in one motion it wouldn't . Worse when damp and cold. I didn't find any broken wire like I did in my passenger side. I removed the connecter
in the door jam and sprayed both ends with electrical contact cleaner. I was very hard to plug back in. I did get it but I was getting worried that I would have
to mess with the door. So far so good. Anyone know the the shop hours to swap these harnesses out. I really don't want to deal with this over and over.
If I started in one motion it wouldn't . Worse when damp and cold. I didn't find any broken wire like I did in my passenger side. I removed the connecter
in the door jam and sprayed both ends with electrical contact cleaner. I was very hard to plug back in. I did get it but I was getting worried that I would have
to mess with the door. So far so good. Anyone know the the shop hours to swap these harnesses out. I really don't want to deal with this over and over.
#50
I'm joining the list of Supercrew owners with this issue. The door lock not working, not a big issue but irritating. The left door ajar display, more irritating. My question, in removing the rubber boot from the B pillar, does it pry off pretty well, and what is the method to re-attach that rubber boot? The wiring sleeve has a big kink in the middle when the door is wide open, so I'm hoping the wiring break is more in the middle. Hope to be able to just add insulated female spade wire connectors to re-connect wires without taping. Any further tips for this novice carport non-mechanic? Really appreciate all the help you folks are!