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2010 SCrew rear door ajar issues.........

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Old 01-25-2015, 04:31 PM
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More sinister than I thought... 3 or 4 of the wires were broken in the center of the bend as well. UGH.


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Old 01-28-2015, 05:58 PM
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OK... not that many folks are interested in this issue, but for those who are:

The wires in my bundle were broken enough that I wanted to replace the entire harness.
Tasca parts said this wire harness was not available. Turns out the number pictured on the original part was the engineering number.
My local dealership was able to pull up the new part (old one superseded).
New part number is: 9L3Z 14630 CAA
2010, Lariat crew cab, passenger rear door wiring harness.

Conveniently enough, it comes with the entire bundle, plastic b-pillar clip and all.
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Old 01-29-2015, 08:25 PM
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What did they charge? I have the same issue.
Old 01-30-2015, 08:37 AM
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I did the work myself, so no labor.

The dealership I go to charges near list price ($72 or so) for the part, but I found it online for around $50.

It turns out, somewhere along the way, the section of wire bundle between the door and the b-pillar became bent downwards. After installing the new one and taking another look at my other door, it appears as though this part was never designed to be bent. The wire bundle is supposed to "push" into the door when the door closes.

Its an easy fix, overall. The only issue is pulling the door skin off (that black stuff).
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Old 02-04-2015, 07:30 PM
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Well **** look at this


2010 SCrew rear door ajar issues.........-image-3683110984.jpg
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Old 02-05-2015, 03:15 PM
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dreuter - that sucks. Looks like you've only got a few wires that are broken, and might have enough on the nub-end to splice them together?
I think others have mentioned that the issue might be that the stiffener rod is too short, and the wires can flex between the end of this rod and the connector. Yours look like that's what happened.
The dealer was able to source the entire wire harness if that's the route you want to go down. Also, the new harness came with everything on the door side, including the rubber boot and the black plastic connector (clipped into the b-pillar).
Old 02-07-2015, 09:43 AM
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I made a couple "jumpers" on the faulty wires. All is working as intended. But for how long? Thanks again Matt for the thread. I have a replacement harness waiting for it if it goes bad again.
Old 09-25-2015, 01:36 PM
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Smile Thanks guys

Originally Posted by dreuter
Well **** look at this


Attachment 365776
My wires were almost identical to the pics on this page. Used good 33+ 3m electrical tape on the wires that were cracked and not broken. Use patch splices of wire that we soldered in for broken wires. I wrapped all the wires with the good tape as well, to re seal the harness. So far so good!
Old 11-16-2015, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Fatmattyd
OK... not that many folks are interested in this issue, but for those who are:

The wires in my bundle were broken enough that I wanted to replace the entire harness.
Tasca parts said this wire harness was not available. Turns out the number pictured on the original part was the engineering number.
My local dealership was able to pull up the new part (old one superseded).
New part number is: 9L3Z 14630 CAA
2010, Lariat crew cab, passenger rear door wiring harness.

Conveniently enough, it comes with the entire bundle, plastic b-pillar clip and all.
Do you happen to know the part number for the driver's side rear door wiring harness? I'm having this same issue and may need to order it.
Old 11-21-2015, 02:00 PM
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Default Same issue

Originally Posted by bddo
Just a quick note that I experienced this same issue in my 09 SCrew today. I replaced the door latch assembly first ($118) which did not resolve the issue. Pulling back the rubber boot and the plastic wrap around the harness revealed 1 broken wire and 4 other wires that were crimped to the point that bare wire was exposed. I repaired all 5 wires and everything is now working as it should. It is definitely an issue with the plastic rod that is put in the harness to keep it straight. If it ever gets bent, it prevents the rubber boot from compressing and expanding as it should.

I guess I'll sell the original door latch assembly now that I know it was good and Ford won't take back the one I bought.
what all did you have to take off to fix this problem


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