2010 F150 V8 5.4L Triton - Rough Idle
03-19-2019, 02:37 PM
#1
2010 F150 V8 5.4L Triton - Rough Idle
Hello Everyone,
I have a 2010 Ford F150 V8 5.4L Triton. Long story - sorry!! My truck started "coughing" and losing acceleration on the freeway. I noticed my engine light was blinking for about 30 seconds then it went off. The truck ran fine after that incident but I took it to the mechanic anyway. He told me that without the engine light on he wasn't able to tell me what, if anything, was wrong. He told me to get my spark plugs changed since I was over 100,000 miles. I got the plugs changed. the truck ran fine for a bit but then I noticed a shutter in the engine when I would crawl in traffic at about 10, 15 mph. It was ok at idle and ok when I was going over 20 mph. The shutter at around 10, 15 mph gradually got worse. I took it back to the mechanic but he said he couldn't find anything wrong with it. Then finally it got so bad that the truck shuttered / coughed super bad and failed. I had it towed to the mechanic and he said he changed the oil and it was fine. But when the truck kept running and the engine got warm, it started knocking and ticking really loud. He told me that a bearing in the cam shaft was bad and I needed a new engine. I left it there over night, went back in the morning to drive it home. On the way home the engine light went on and stayed on. I stopped at AutoZone and 3 codes came up. P0340. P0021. P0022. The recommendation was to change both VTC solenoids. I bought Ford parts and my little brother did the work. We thought we would be able to change the solenoids without taking the valve covers off but there wasn't enough room to get a screwdriver in to undo the solenoid screw (like we had seen on several you tube videos). My little brother noticed a little bit of slack in the timing chain when replacing the driver side solenoid. But he said that little bit of slack could be normal, that when the engine is running and the oil is moving through it, there's tension generated. Regardless, replacing the solenoids work took a little longer than we had anticipated. But afterwards, the truck ran great. I took it to Jiffy Lube the next morning and had the oil changed again but this time I put in 5/20 full synthetic (cause these Fords run so hot). What I am dealing with now is a faint shutter / cough when I am at a full idle at a red light. It was real faint at first, now it's gradually becoming a little bit more pronounced however, the truck never fails. It just shutters / coughs a little bit when I'm at a complete stopped idle. And there's no pattern. Sometimes it happens, and sometimes it doesn't. Any thoughts??
I have a 2010 Ford F150 V8 5.4L Triton. Long story - sorry!! My truck started "coughing" and losing acceleration on the freeway. I noticed my engine light was blinking for about 30 seconds then it went off. The truck ran fine after that incident but I took it to the mechanic anyway. He told me that without the engine light on he wasn't able to tell me what, if anything, was wrong. He told me to get my spark plugs changed since I was over 100,000 miles. I got the plugs changed. the truck ran fine for a bit but then I noticed a shutter in the engine when I would crawl in traffic at about 10, 15 mph. It was ok at idle and ok when I was going over 20 mph. The shutter at around 10, 15 mph gradually got worse. I took it back to the mechanic but he said he couldn't find anything wrong with it. Then finally it got so bad that the truck shuttered / coughed super bad and failed. I had it towed to the mechanic and he said he changed the oil and it was fine. But when the truck kept running and the engine got warm, it started knocking and ticking really loud. He told me that a bearing in the cam shaft was bad and I needed a new engine. I left it there over night, went back in the morning to drive it home. On the way home the engine light went on and stayed on. I stopped at AutoZone and 3 codes came up. P0340. P0021. P0022. The recommendation was to change both VTC solenoids. I bought Ford parts and my little brother did the work. We thought we would be able to change the solenoids without taking the valve covers off but there wasn't enough room to get a screwdriver in to undo the solenoid screw (like we had seen on several you tube videos). My little brother noticed a little bit of slack in the timing chain when replacing the driver side solenoid. But he said that little bit of slack could be normal, that when the engine is running and the oil is moving through it, there's tension generated. Regardless, replacing the solenoids work took a little longer than we had anticipated. But afterwards, the truck ran great. I took it to Jiffy Lube the next morning and had the oil changed again but this time I put in 5/20 full synthetic (cause these Fords run so hot). What I am dealing with now is a faint shutter / cough when I am at a full idle at a red light. It was real faint at first, now it's gradually becoming a little bit more pronounced however, the truck never fails. It just shutters / coughs a little bit when I'm at a complete stopped idle. And there's no pattern. Sometimes it happens, and sometimes it doesn't. Any thoughts??
03-19-2019, 03:01 PM
#2
My old 2010 did this when I would come to a full stop. Needed a complete timing job if I recall correctly and an oil pump.
Also, stop taking your truck to Jiffy Lube. The oil filters they use are less than a dollar and don’t provide any oil pressure on start up. **** those places.
Also, stop taking your truck to Jiffy Lube. The oil filters they use are less than a dollar and don’t provide any oil pressure on start up. **** those places.
The following users liked this post:
giomig (03-19-2019)
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giomig (03-19-2019)
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giomig (03-19-2019)
03-19-2019, 04:54 PM
#5
You're on the right track by replacing the solenoids. Cam phasers are also a known problem with this engine (I have the same 2010 5.4L). And what the other posters said about the throttle body sensor and the coil packs (which they really should have done when you had the plugs changed).
I'd also go back to using the Ford recommended oil. 21st century vehicles need to use the oil they're specc'ed for. My dad's old '64 Chevy stepside would take any kind of oil you put in it and keep running but engines these days have smaller tolerances for that sort of thing.
I'd also go back to using the Ford recommended oil. 21st century vehicles need to use the oil they're specc'ed for. My dad's old '64 Chevy stepside would take any kind of oil you put in it and keep running but engines these days have smaller tolerances for that sort of thing.
03-19-2019, 05:53 PM
#6
My old 2010 did this when I would come to a full stop. Needed a complete timing job if I recall correctly and an oil pump.
Also, stop taking your truck to Jiffy Lube. The oil filters they use are less than a dollar and don’t provide any oil pressure on start up. **** those places.
Also, stop taking your truck to Jiffy Lube. The oil filters they use are less than a dollar and don’t provide any oil pressure on start up. **** those places.
