2010 F150 Has Long Crank Cold Weather Conditions After Sitting Outside Overnight
#1
2010 F150 Has Long Crank Cold Weather Conditions After Sitting Outside Overnight
2010 F150 XLT 5.4L 3v - Has Long Crank In Cold Weather After Sitting Outside Overnight. ((SOLVED))
Hey guys, this is my first post on a vehicle forum page. I have a 2010 F150 XLT Extended Cab with a 5.4L 3v Engine. I bought this truck about 5 months ago in the summer and it has started fine and quickly in warm-hot conditions with no problems noticed. Right now in Michigan, we have been approaching freezing temperatures and I have noticed that in the next morning ( after truck sitting overnight) the truck has been starting long and rough in these cold temperatures of less than 35 degrees. It is like a long crank 5-7 second crank and it will finally start. I might even have to give it 2-3 tries for it to finally start. This does not happen every morning though. Here is a video link of what the long crank sounds like before finally starting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9F-5...ature=youtu.be
Yet, when it finally starts the whole vehicle shakes and vibrates for a quick second (It feels like a quick 3-second long rapid misfire occurring) There will occasionally be a quick smell of raw fuel upon startup. I also notice only upon startup, white smoke coming out by looking into the passenger side mirror (only lasts for 10 sec). But after this is all over, everything is fine........ there are no issues, it will drive fine and I can even shut it off after only a minute of running and it will then start immediately. It only occurs when I leave the truck sitting overnight alone for 8+ hours I would say. I brought it to a local mechanic and left it overnight. They could not figure out the issue and I ended up paying them for labor without any solution.
I am starting to suspect something with a fuel injector (but I hear no ticking noises and I have no misfires while driving). I also thought it could be something with coolant temperature readings or sensors in the engine but I have to do more research into this. I am also using thicker oil of 5w-30 instead of 5w-20 but I am not sure if this could cause this issue. Besides moving to Florida does anyone have any solutions?
Things I have done or tested (I hope I did them correctly):
- I brought my battery to NAPA to have it tested and has tested fine.
- Inspected air filter.
-Changed my Spark Plugs and Coil Packs (no difference noticed)
-I kept finding issues about "EVAP Purge Valve" so I inspected for leaks by placing my finger while the vehicle is running to test for any suction and it came out fine. The channel Fordtechmakaloco mentioned doing this.
-Cleaned the Mass airflow sensor with purchased CRC cleaner.
-Also Cleaned the Throttle Body.
-I have also tried cycling the key a few times to better prime the fuel pump.
None of these worked.
Please help!
__________________________________________________ ________________________________________
UPDATE 2/20/2020:
Hello everyone, it has been a couple of months and I thought I would give an update. After replacing fuse #27 with a brand new fuse, the problem went away for a little while until surfacing again 2 weeks ago. I then decided a week ago to buy Ford's relocation kit for Fuse #27 and this did not fix anything. It still starts long and rough like it has done prior. I thought it was a weather issue since it started happening in the cold but it was close to 50 degrees out today and it still starts rough.
Below I have added on to my list of more things that have been replaced. The issue is still persisting I am wondering if it is a leaking fuel injector overnight that is making the plugs wet, therefore making it harder and longer to start? Coolant Temperature Sensor? The starting problem only happens after sitting long overnight and starting rough/long the next morning. Once the truck starts up I can drive away with no issues at all and I can even turn it back off and it will start up instantly; no issues at all. Same as before..... I am going to bring it to a different shop and give them a printout of this post, hopefully, they will read through it. I hope this post can help others out there.
More things that have been replaced:
-Purchased the Ford fuse Relocation Kit for Fuse #27 and Relocated it to fuse #70.
-Replaced Fuse No. 8 (The Fuel Pump)
-Replaced Canister Purge Valve (Part is: MOTORCRAFT CX-2447)
__________________________________________________ _____________________________________
Solution Found!!! SOLVED
After lots of screwing around and wasting my personal time, I brought it to a good recommended mechanic. The problem was the Fuel Pump Control Module. This kind of took me by surprise because I thought the 2004-2008 F150's only had fuel pump control module issue BUT.... Apparently, my 2010 F150 had the same issue. Its been starting up quick and fast with no problems!
Hey guys, this is my first post on a vehicle forum page. I have a 2010 F150 XLT Extended Cab with a 5.4L 3v Engine. I bought this truck about 5 months ago in the summer and it has started fine and quickly in warm-hot conditions with no problems noticed. Right now in Michigan, we have been approaching freezing temperatures and I have noticed that in the next morning ( after truck sitting overnight) the truck has been starting long and rough in these cold temperatures of less than 35 degrees. It is like a long crank 5-7 second crank and it will finally start. I might even have to give it 2-3 tries for it to finally start. This does not happen every morning though. Here is a video link of what the long crank sounds like before finally starting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9F-5...ature=youtu.be
Yet, when it finally starts the whole vehicle shakes and vibrates for a quick second (It feels like a quick 3-second long rapid misfire occurring) There will occasionally be a quick smell of raw fuel upon startup. I also notice only upon startup, white smoke coming out by looking into the passenger side mirror (only lasts for 10 sec). But after this is all over, everything is fine........ there are no issues, it will drive fine and I can even shut it off after only a minute of running and it will then start immediately. It only occurs when I leave the truck sitting overnight alone for 8+ hours I would say. I brought it to a local mechanic and left it overnight. They could not figure out the issue and I ended up paying them for labor without any solution.
I am starting to suspect something with a fuel injector (but I hear no ticking noises and I have no misfires while driving). I also thought it could be something with coolant temperature readings or sensors in the engine but I have to do more research into this. I am also using thicker oil of 5w-30 instead of 5w-20 but I am not sure if this could cause this issue. Besides moving to Florida does anyone have any solutions?
Things I have done or tested (I hope I did them correctly):
- I brought my battery to NAPA to have it tested and has tested fine.
- Inspected air filter.
-Changed my Spark Plugs and Coil Packs (no difference noticed)
-I kept finding issues about "EVAP Purge Valve" so I inspected for leaks by placing my finger while the vehicle is running to test for any suction and it came out fine. The channel Fordtechmakaloco mentioned doing this.
-Cleaned the Mass airflow sensor with purchased CRC cleaner.
-Also Cleaned the Throttle Body.
-I have also tried cycling the key a few times to better prime the fuel pump.
None of these worked.
Please help!
__________________________________________________ ________________________________________
UPDATE 2/20/2020:
Hello everyone, it has been a couple of months and I thought I would give an update. After replacing fuse #27 with a brand new fuse, the problem went away for a little while until surfacing again 2 weeks ago. I then decided a week ago to buy Ford's relocation kit for Fuse #27 and this did not fix anything. It still starts long and rough like it has done prior. I thought it was a weather issue since it started happening in the cold but it was close to 50 degrees out today and it still starts rough.
Below I have added on to my list of more things that have been replaced. The issue is still persisting I am wondering if it is a leaking fuel injector overnight that is making the plugs wet, therefore making it harder and longer to start? Coolant Temperature Sensor? The starting problem only happens after sitting long overnight and starting rough/long the next morning. Once the truck starts up I can drive away with no issues at all and I can even turn it back off and it will start up instantly; no issues at all. Same as before..... I am going to bring it to a different shop and give them a printout of this post, hopefully, they will read through it. I hope this post can help others out there.
More things that have been replaced:
-Purchased the Ford fuse Relocation Kit for Fuse #27 and Relocated it to fuse #70.
-Replaced Fuse No. 8 (The Fuel Pump)
-Replaced Canister Purge Valve (Part is: MOTORCRAFT CX-2447)
__________________________________________________ _____________________________________
Solution Found!!! SOLVED
After lots of screwing around and wasting my personal time, I brought it to a good recommended mechanic. The problem was the Fuel Pump Control Module. This kind of took me by surprise because I thought the 2004-2008 F150's only had fuel pump control module issue BUT.... Apparently, my 2010 F150 had the same issue. Its been starting up quick and fast with no problems!
Last edited by Michael VanFarowe; 03-28-2021 at 11:23 AM.
#2
Hmmm so intermittent. I would say it's a fuel delivery issue/symptom for sure, given all that you have tested thus far.
Have you installed Ford's fuel pump fuse #27 relocation kit yet?
All new parts replaced with OEM or aftermarket?
It could be the FPDM intermittently working depending on the weather conditions. If it was a leaking fuel injector or injectors, why do you have longer cranking in the colder season only and not all the time given the overnight it sits without starting in the warmer season. It would affect hot starts too. So weird. Also, no mention of codes present.... yet. Time may tell different.
One thing that I need to keep in mind when replying with what I've said, is that you mentioned everything works normally once it's started. Nothing out of the ordinary to report.
I should also say that even though you have tried a bunch of things already, there is no guarantee it wasn't just a fortuitous result from diagnosing an intermittent problem. In other words, can't cross them completely off the list yet.
Hopefully there's an answer out there for you good sir.
Have you installed Ford's fuel pump fuse #27 relocation kit yet?
All new parts replaced with OEM or aftermarket?
It could be the FPDM intermittently working depending on the weather conditions. If it was a leaking fuel injector or injectors, why do you have longer cranking in the colder season only and not all the time given the overnight it sits without starting in the warmer season. It would affect hot starts too. So weird. Also, no mention of codes present.... yet. Time may tell different.
One thing that I need to keep in mind when replying with what I've said, is that you mentioned everything works normally once it's started. Nothing out of the ordinary to report.
I should also say that even though you have tried a bunch of things already, there is no guarantee it wasn't just a fortuitous result from diagnosing an intermittent problem. In other words, can't cross them completely off the list yet.
Hopefully there's an answer out there for you good sir.
The following users liked this post:
Me32 (11-24-2020)
#3
Senior Member
Definitely not starting quite right.
I watched the video.
From what I remember of the purge valve issue from when I had issues it was more of a problem in warmer weather.
Also what I remember after reading the tsb for the purge valve it sometimes will click rapidly, you can hear it quite easily.
Generally tough sometimes to diagnose fuel pump issues they don't set codes for that usually.
Did they check the fuel pressure?
Or did it not act up for the local mechanic?
I watched the video.
From what I remember of the purge valve issue from when I had issues it was more of a problem in warmer weather.
Also what I remember after reading the tsb for the purge valve it sometimes will click rapidly, you can hear it quite easily.
Generally tough sometimes to diagnose fuel pump issues they don't set codes for that usually.
Did they check the fuel pressure?
Or did it not act up for the local mechanic?
Last edited by MF cowboy; 11-24-2020 at 11:14 AM.
#4
Does your truck have an engine block heater?
#5
Hello, thank you so much for taking the time in replying to my post; very generous!! This morning was our snow day of the season where I live. Last night I saw your response to my post and I right away went to Fuse #27 and replaced it with a 20 amp fuse. I noticed that the old fuse with slightly black on the outside metal edge but I don't think it would cause any issues. I did not notice in #27 bay if there was any melting or corrosion. Anyways, after I replaced the fuse last night the next morning was sure cold outside but the truck had started up instantly. Like you said it is very intermittent; so only time will tell. I will keep you updated. I will say you have a good point about not crossing things I have already tested entirely off my list. If it happens again, would you recommend re-testing anything I have been doing?
#6
I have never heard of this. Is something that has to be installed inside or outside the engine? I don't really have a plug near my truck to keep it heated overnight. Maybe a separate internal battery?
#7
Thanks for responding to me and I really appreciate it. From what it sounds like from the mechanic's side is that It was only a 3-second long start when he tried it. Prior to this, I showed him the same video but he could not figure out the issue. I did a scan today and the only troublesome code is a P1000 code listed but I have to do more research into this code. I am considering buying a fuel pressure tester so that is on my list of testing.
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#8
Glad it kinda sounds like you fixed you issue with the fuse #27. Keep us updated
#9
Senior Member
Hello, thank you so much for taking the time in replying to my post; very generous!! This morning was our snow day of the season where I live. Last night I saw your response to my post and I right away went to Fuse #27 and replaced it with a 20 amp fuse. I noticed that the old fuse with slightly black on the outside metal edge but I don't think it would cause any issues. I did not notice in #27 bay if there was any melting or corrosion. Anyways, after I replaced the fuse last night the next morning was sure cold outside but the truck had started up instantly. Like you said it is very intermittent; so only time will tell. I will keep you updated. I will say you have a good point about not crossing things I have already tested entirely off my list. If it happens again, would you recommend re-testing anything I have been doing?
#10
Senior Member
I totally agree with Spikey.
Just put the fuse 27 kit in from Ford, it is going to cause trouble eventually and leave you stranded.
Investigate the codes first.
And block heaters are not really necessary unless the temp drops to -16f or lower.
Just put the fuse 27 kit in from Ford, it is going to cause trouble eventually and leave you stranded.
Investigate the codes first.
And block heaters are not really necessary unless the temp drops to -16f or lower.