2009/2010 5.4 Issues?
12-17-2016, 12:33 PM
#21
This is an old thread, not sure if the OP already bought a truck already? I traded my 12 Lariat 5.0 in on a 2010 platinum max tow supercrew. I have 3.73 gears (5.0 had 3.55 and was a dog) and a 5* tune and it is a nice combination. Love the creature comforts, only have 44k miles on the truck and it's pristine. The tune wakes these trucks up, I had one on my 05, 12,and now my 10 and it's worth it. The 5.4 motor trucks do not have select shift so if you tow there is no way to lock out 6th gear. That's where the tune comes in, I have a ODLK tune that locks out 6th when the tow haul button is pressed. With 3.73 gears, I can run down the road in 5th with no up shifting for hills at 70. The 5.0 would kick to 4 and then 3 and RPM's scream to maintain speed on any hill, but that's how that motor was designed to run.
I looked long and hard at the ecoboost when I bought my 5.0 and 5.4, but any over 60k miles were hit or miss on power output and issues, and they wanted huge amounts of money. You can get a loaded up 5.4 for quite a bit less and not give up much once tuned. Keep in mind the 09 had smaller brakes and a clutch fan whereas the 10 has e-fans and larger brakes. Otherwise they are the same.
I looked long and hard at the ecoboost when I bought my 5.0 and 5.4, but any over 60k miles were hit or miss on power output and issues, and they wanted huge amounts of money. You can get a loaded up 5.4 for quite a bit less and not give up much once tuned. Keep in mind the 09 had smaller brakes and a clutch fan whereas the 10 has e-fans and larger brakes. Otherwise they are the same.
12-20-2016, 01:25 PM
#22
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Hello, thank you for the information. I'm looking at a 2010 fx4 with 80k on it. I had some concerns but I'm glad to see that most have good success for many years to come.
12-20-2016, 04:21 PM
#23
Make sure you can hear it start when cold to see if you hear a startup rattle, which indicates it would need timing chain rebuild kit. Then get it good and hot and listen to it at idle to make sure it doesn't sound like a diesel (which means it needs cam phasers). They are prone to exhaust manifold bolts breaking off and causing a ticking sound as well so keep that in mind. Usually you can look and see if bolt heads are broken on the passenger side exhaust manifold.
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12-21-2016, 07:18 AM
#24
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Make sure you can hear it start when cold to see if you hear a startup rattle, which indicates it would need timing chain rebuild kit. Then get it good and hot and listen to it at idle to make sure it doesn't sound like a diesel (which means it needs cam phasers). They are prone to exhaust manifold bolts breaking off and causing a ticking sound as well so keep that in mind. Usually you can look and see if bolt heads are broken on the passenger side exhaust manifold.
12-21-2016, 09:55 AM
#25
If there is no rust on the body, and the interior is nice and you like the truck, you'll need to negotiate at least 1500 off the price for a timing set including the phasers. If the truck doesn't run smooth under throttle though, it could need new cams depending on how extensive the damage is. If that's the case, walk away, it's not worth the risk.
12-30-2016, 12:48 PM
#26
meatwagon
Im new to this forum. Just bought me a 2010 5.4 XLT Screw 4x4. 47,000mi. Everything sounds good for now. I was wondering about the tune for these trucks. I have a 2000 7.3 f-350 also. I bought a superchips tuner for it years ago. Do I buy a tuner for the 5.4 or take it somewhere to have it programed? Thanks.
12-30-2016, 12:56 PM
#27
Go to 5startuning.com and order an sct-x4 with 3 included tunes. They will need the computer number which can be found under the hood at the passenger side firewall. Make sure to get your tunes with ODLK (overdrive lock out) for the tow haul mode to prevent the truck from shifting into 6th when in tow/haul mode. I run the 87 performance/tow tune and had them tweak the shift points closer to stock while still taking advantage of the better electronic throttle response provided with the tune. Their stock performance tune held the gears longer than I liked for my relaxed driving style (on both up and downshift).
You can still shift the truck into 6th when towing by turning off tow/haul, letting the truck upshift (provided you are going fast enough and under the right load conditions). You can then press tow/haul again and remain in 6th. The lockout feature only prevents the natural up shift into 6th. Pressing tow haul button while already in 6th does not bump you down into 5th if that makes sense.
You can still shift the truck into 6th when towing by turning off tow/haul, letting the truck upshift (provided you are going fast enough and under the right load conditions). You can then press tow/haul again and remain in 6th. The lockout feature only prevents the natural up shift into 6th. Pressing tow haul button while already in 6th does not bump you down into 5th if that makes sense.
03-14-2018, 01:04 PM
#28
Senior Member
Been a while since the thread was started, but here is my experience and 2 cents so far... I have a 2010 Lariat Crew with 5.4li.
So far I have had the trans downshift clunk since about 35K (still does it, but not on a regular basis); the rear vibration/shudder when starting to move. Rear diff oil change with friction component fixed that (about $75 for Motorcraft Gear Oil, additive and sealer) at about 37K and I replaced the right exhaust manifold at 84K due to the ticking exhaust leak where the manifold bolt corroded and snapped. I did this work myself, but was still out of pocket about $1100 (Dealer would have charged over $3K with snapped bolt removal) as I needed to have the truck towed to a specialty shop, the cost of parts and the cost to have the shop drill out the frozen bolt remains after my numerous attempts; including welding on several nuts and copious amount of penetrating oil failed. Now I'm getting the ticking/light clanging at start up (87K) for a few seconds which fades away as the engine runs and oil pressure builds. Dealer diagnosed it as the Cam/Timing Chain Solenoid. It essentially puts pressure on the chain to remove slack using oil pressure. They did an oil flush and filter replacement which helped, but I still have the issue. After the flush it's not as loud, but I can still hear the chatter upon starting. Dealer said about $2K to replace chains, phaser sprockets, solenoids and oil pump. What else have you guys experienced? Anyone DIY this repair? Seems like every year I am getting one expensive issue or another. Trying to decide if it's time to unload my Ford and go a different direction.
So far I have had the trans downshift clunk since about 35K (still does it, but not on a regular basis); the rear vibration/shudder when starting to move. Rear diff oil change with friction component fixed that (about $75 for Motorcraft Gear Oil, additive and sealer) at about 37K and I replaced the right exhaust manifold at 84K due to the ticking exhaust leak where the manifold bolt corroded and snapped. I did this work myself, but was still out of pocket about $1100 (Dealer would have charged over $3K with snapped bolt removal) as I needed to have the truck towed to a specialty shop, the cost of parts and the cost to have the shop drill out the frozen bolt remains after my numerous attempts; including welding on several nuts and copious amount of penetrating oil failed. Now I'm getting the ticking/light clanging at start up (87K) for a few seconds which fades away as the engine runs and oil pressure builds. Dealer diagnosed it as the Cam/Timing Chain Solenoid. It essentially puts pressure on the chain to remove slack using oil pressure. They did an oil flush and filter replacement which helped, but I still have the issue. After the flush it's not as loud, but I can still hear the chatter upon starting. Dealer said about $2K to replace chains, phaser sprockets, solenoids and oil pump. What else have you guys experienced? Anyone DIY this repair? Seems like every year I am getting one expensive issue or another. Trying to decide if it's time to unload my Ford and go a different direction.
03-16-2018, 07:14 AM
#29
Senior Member
Bought my 2010 new with the 5.4 and tow package. It only has 28k on the clock. Bought it to pull my RV mostly... All I have to say about the truck is, it's the worse thing I've ever bought to pull a RV! It won't down shift when it should unless I push the gas peddle to the floor a few times then it won't up shift unless I take my foot off the gas peddle. This only happens when I'm pulling my RV.
It's also VERY slow to respond to your foot even when you're not pulling anything. It's like the truck is controlled with a left over 8088 computer.
And yes, Ford knows of the problem but won't do a call back. I've had it re flashed a few times, it never helped.
I'm DONE with Ford products.. It's the first NEW Ford I have ever bought and WILL be my last! Plus NO MORE American made junk for me. Toyota for here on out.
It's also VERY slow to respond to your foot even when you're not pulling anything. It's like the truck is controlled with a left over 8088 computer.
And yes, Ford knows of the problem but won't do a call back. I've had it re flashed a few times, it never helped.
I'm DONE with Ford products.. It's the first NEW Ford I have ever bought and WILL be my last! Plus NO MORE American made junk for me. Toyota for here on out.