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2.5A Drain From Instrument Cluster - No Lights On

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2.5A Drain From Instrument Cluster - No Lights On

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Old 06-08-2018, 12:57 PM
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Default 2.5A Drain From Instrument Cluster - No Lights On

I've been dealing with a battery drain for a couple of weeks now. It is intermittent, and I just got the right clamp meter on it yesterday to determine I have a 2.5A draw coming from the 10A instrument cluster circuit (I pull the fuse and the drain goes away). Obviously I came across the park switch problem that leaves the cluster lights on when this first started happening and I was searching for a cause. In my case, however, I do not have the lights staying on. Can't find a similar issue through googling, anyone had this happen?
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:27 PM
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Try putting the fuse back in and pulling relays until the load goes away. Then swap in a different relay and see what happens. If that fixes the problem, great. If not, you aren't out any money. Best of luck.
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by PerryB View Post
Try putting the fuse back in and pulling relays until the load goes away. Then swap in a different relay and see what happens. If that fixes the problem, great. If not, you aren't out any money. Best of luck.
Thanks for the suggestion, I don't think the circuit has any relays though, does it? I'm looking at the wiring diagrams now to see if I can make sense of them and find something else to check.
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Old 06-08-2018, 02:01 PM
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I really don't know if there is a relay or not. It was just a simple diagnostic plan that popped into my head.
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Old 06-08-2018, 07:51 PM
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Other common battery drain sources
  • LEAVING THE KEY IN THE IGNITION. *TAKE IT OUT BEFORE LEAVING THE VEHICLE.
  • leaving devices plugged-into the electrial recepticles. *they're ALWAYS hot.
  • faulty ignition switch. *symptom - key is loose.
  • faulty shift lever micro-switch. *does not register as being in P(ark).
  • faulty door -closed- switch.
  • faulty hood -closed- switch.
  • the mirror cover on the passenger visor does not close causing the light to stay on.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:42 PM
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Something is preventing the instrument cluster module from going to sleep.
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Old 06-09-2018, 01:16 AM
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The cluster lights won't always be on, at least mine weren't always. It was hit and miss. Interestingly, my wife's Edge does the same thing sometimes. The cluster lights will mysteriously wake up with no hands on the car. The real giveaway with a bad shifter switch is the park indicator. Turn the key on and see if it's red. If it's white, you have a bad switch.

-- In the case of our Edge, it passes the trigger test. Red park indicator that turns white when you squeeze the release trigger. Maybe it was built at the Amityville plant......

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Old 06-09-2018, 02:53 AM
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If it does end up being the shifter switch here's the link for it. https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=SW721-ND
You could buy the "kit" on ebay for $30ish but I paid around $16 w/shipping.
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Old 06-09-2018, 12:32 PM
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Following this cause I'm going through the same problem. My battery keeps draining.
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:21 PM
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I can confirm that the vehicle's "P" Indicator lights up on the cluster, never has trouble remote starting or anything else indicating that it doesn't know it's in park at the same time as the 2.5A drain is present. I do have an update, the Red/Blue wire that I am pretty sure feeds power to the cluster (and nothing else? I need better wiring diagrams) is only seeing about 0.5A current during the 2.5A drain, even though pulling that fuse is what stops the drain. I saw the current drop by 1.25A-1.5A when I pulled the fuse for the RADIO. Radio drain goes away when Cluster fuse is pulled. Anyone know how these systems are interconnected and maybe have any suggestion? Something in the Cluster maybe staying energized and keeping Radio on? I'm going to try to find a better diagram of everything into/out of the BCM
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