Nongmin

I'm not sure how or why, but I've got a problem at the pinouts.

I did the #21 fuse and #9 jumper wire adds at the underhood fusebox, all seemed okay. I used a test probe this weekend to confirm there was still power at the connector, ground connected to the 7 o'clock pin and positive at the 2 o'clock pin. Still good. Now, I may have gotten careless when finishing the test and touched the positive probe against another pin.

I no longer have the expected 12V power when checking between 2:00 and 7:00 pins, but I now have 12V when using the 7:00 and 5:00 pins, according to my voltmeter. However, when I hook up a light to these two pins, I get no light! I am stumped!!

Is there another fuse I may have popped and am overlooking it? I've checked the #21 fuse and it's good. My plan is to tap the 7 pin wiring for bed lights.

46L281GT

In the factory configuration, the 12 volt connection is only enabled when the key is on. It is not on all of the time.

kbrock

I think OP tapped #21 fuse to the #9 relay to try and get constant power.

OP, when I add bed lights I will be just using an automotive 12V relay and won't be tapping into any factory wiring

Nongmin

Correct, I added the fuse in the #21 slot and made the short jumper wire for the #9 slot, to give me constant 12V at the harness pinouts. I'm not using the relay, so no need to turn the key on. I followed what others on the forum had done to achieve this, so I can turn on the lights at any time.

What I don't understand, is how it worked as expected, now the hot has moved from the 12V+ pin to the trailer brake pin. Doesn't seem reasonable (or possible). I pulled the jumper and checked it, checked the fuse @#21, tried to reason out what's happened. Maybe try to remove the jumper and put the relay in #9, and see what happens?