Truck leveling help
05-01-2014, 11:23 PM
#21
05-02-2014, 10:12 AM
#22
anything over 2" level on a 4wd will be able to clear 35x12.5's (nittos may say 12.5 for the size but if you look at their website, they are 13.39 or something which will rub) i really really would recommend against a 3" unless you don't mind ripping cv boots, having your upper control arm hit the coils on full droop, and having very extreme angles for ball joints and tie rods. a 3" is just too much IMO
05-02-2014, 03:12 PM
#23
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anything over 2" level on a 4wd will be able to clear 35x12.5's (nittos may say 12.5 for the size but if you look at their website, they are 13.39 or something which will rub) i really really would recommend against a 3" unless you don't mind ripping cv boots, having your upper control arm hit the coils on full droop, and having very extreme angles for ball joints and tie rods. a 3" is just too much IMO
05-02-2014, 03:33 PM
#24
anything over 2" level on a 4wd will be able to clear 35x12.5's (nittos may say 12.5 for the size but if you look at their website, they are 13.39 or something which will rub) i really really would recommend against a 3" unless you don't mind ripping cv boots, having your upper control arm hit the coils on full droop, and having very extreme angles for ball joints and tie rods. a 3" is just too much IMO
You should add me as a friend, maybe we could put together a meet offroad trail vacation with more forum members, would be cool
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uzikaduzi (05-02-2014)
05-02-2014, 05:54 PM
#25
2.5 should be fine... obviously ANY level will change the factory geometry and cause parts to wear out faster... but the difference with a 3" to a 2.5" is with the 3" you'll rip cv boots pretty quickly like <10k miles and all the other moving parts in the front end quicker with a 2.5 you'll wear out stuff quicker than is expected but it would be like getting 70-80k out of ball joints instead of 100k+. as for whether to go with a little rear lift or not, it's hard to say and depends on your tastes. i liked 3" blocks instead of the factory 1 5/8" blocks from the factory but that added a very very slight bit of rake back (maybe a 1/2-1 inch) but it depends on how much your rear leafs have settled. I think if there was little to now wear on the leafs, 2.5" might still be very slightly (maybe 1/4 inch) higher in the front where 2 " without much wear on the leafs would be pretty close to level. if you need to do something with the rear, that's much much less work since you just pull the u bolts and you have a few options... blocks, AAL, or shorter shackles.
snowhite: I'd be game for something like that... preferably somewhere with a camp ground. I'm certainly not even in the realm of some of these guys knowledge wise, but I've played and researched with lift a bit.
snowhite: I'd be game for something like that... preferably somewhere with a camp ground. I'm certainly not even in the realm of some of these guys knowledge wise, but I've played and researched with lift a bit.
05-02-2014, 06:02 PM
#26
Senior Member
I hate leveling kits. If it was my truck and I was doing it over, it would have a proper 4 inch suspension left. What you spend replacing in front end parts will even out the cost of the suspension lift pretty quickly.
05-03-2014, 03:01 PM
#27
See to me I feel like anything lifted in the front will mess up your suspension keys blocks lifts whatever they all mess up the front end..... so pick what you want haha.... I had a truck leveled with 35s on it I didn't put any rims or spacers on cause one I had a seven lug truck try finding spacers for that and two I could turn fine and I didn't off road at all I liked the look.... so if you off road I would fix the keys then get rims to offset them so they would fit.... or if you just city drive or highway I would just fix the keys and get good spacers or if you don't mind it rubbin then don't get them.... its all preference I feel
05-03-2014, 04:27 PM
#28
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See to me I feel like anything lifted in the front will mess up your suspension keys blocks lifts whatever they all mess up the front end..... so pick what you want haha.... I had a truck leveled with 35s on it I didn't put any rims or spacers on cause one I had a seven lug truck try finding spacers for that and two I could turn fine and I didn't off road at all I liked the look.... so if you off road I would fix the keys then get rims to offset them so they would fit.... or if you just city drive or highway I would just fix the keys and get good spacers or if you don't mind it rubbin then don't get them.... its all preference I feel
05-06-2014, 12:48 AM
#29
2.5 should be fine... obviously ANY level will change the factory geometry and cause parts to wear out faster... but the difference with a 3" to a 2.5" is with the 3" you'll rip cv boots pretty quickly like <10k miles and all the other moving parts in the front end quicker with a 2.5 you'll wear out stuff quicker than is expected but it would be like getting 70-80k out of ball joints instead of 100k+. as for whether to go with a little rear lift or not, it's hard to say and depends on your tastes. i liked 3" blocks instead of the factory 1 5/8" blocks from the factory but that added a very very slight bit of rake back (maybe a 1/2-1 inch) but it depends on how much your rear leafs have settled. I think if there was little to now wear on the leafs, 2.5" might still be very slightly (maybe 1/4 inch) higher in the front where 2 " without much wear on the leafs would be pretty close to level. if you need to do something with the rear, that's much much less work since you just pull the u bolts and you have a few options... blocks, AAL, or shorter shackles. snowhite: I'd be game for something like that... preferably somewhere with a camp ground. I'm certainly not even in the realm of some of these guys knowledge wise, but I've played and researched with lift a bit.