ronemca

Wow! I am learning a lot in a short time. And I'm very grateful.

With reference to my use of the term: "double-articulated", what I meant was what 'jp360cj' said about double cardan driveshafts. I'm not familiar with that term, but indeed it was three-joints-on-the-same-shaft design that I was thinking of when I wondered whether there were front shafts in existence that utilized twin u-joints at one end. I thought they might permit a greater deflection angle without the risk of binding. Probably not. But I also admit that since I do not yet own the truck -- and have not had an opportunity to crawl under one to see the design for myself -- I probably shouldn't be talking through my hat this early in the game! So...

I'll take a few more days to teach myself more about this, and I return with more questions.

<round of handshakes>

ronemca

Update:
Ive learned a great deal since my wet-behind-the-ears intro. A few members have been most kind & patient in helping with that and I am grateful.

Since I’ve decided on a coil-over diff-drop 4” lift+level — likely from BDS — I’m now thinking about UCA’s. BDS offers upgraded UCA’s as optional add-ons, so they are clearly not *required* Therefore I’m wondering just how much they might improve the overall performance (or handling...or longevity of components).

Can some of you quantify the value and/or effectiveness of upgraded UCA’s?

jdunk54nl

it will increase your front wheel travel from 7-8” to about 9-10”. Besides that you don’t gain a whole lot if you do a proper lift.

I also wouldnt get the bds version. I’d go icon delta joints if I were to replace mine today.

ronemca

Interesting! May I know your reasoning on this, please?

Florida_F150

This video gives a good quick summary. The main decision is ball joint vs uniball. (See video). The Icon is sort of a hybrid of the two.

ronemca

Thanks! That's quite helpful.

I often speak publicly about my plans (and/or ask questions and/or express doubts or reservations) and their correlation with money. And - inevitably - I get reminded that 'ya gotta pay to play'. I've paid many, many times - I get that. But there is a realistic limitation; a threshold beyond which each individual must say:

"I don't need that much protection/articulation/lift/travel/longevity/power..." Whatever - it's a choice.

And it means that, for me...factory UCA's may be satisfactory for what I expect to encounter. But for 'not me', only $1000 UCA's will make the cut. But maybe I choose to stick with factory UCA's so that I can spend an additional $400 on better shocks...or tie rod ends...or coil-overs. Or perhaps I agree that upgraded UCA's are for me...but that ball-joint style are enough (versus hybrid uni-ball style)

My point is, I like the idea of upgraded UCA's because they appear to offer more than just bling. My fellow member (jdunk54nl - I appreciate your input, man) tells me that I can gain an additional couple of inches of travel! That's fantastic! And since I do not anticipate exceeding 11.5" in tire width...I can install them without being forced to upgrade my wheels immediately. This is an excellent outcome.

I just don't want to be lumped in with all those guys who come on the forums and expect to achieve stellar results by spending $631 on eBay. I recognize the value and prudence of wise investing, and I intend to do so. :-)

jdunk54nl

The reason I said not to get BDS version is because they are $700. If I was going to go uniball I would pick up the bajakits uniball boxed UCA's. They are $900 list but I believe they give a forum discount.

Though, I would definitely go the hybrid Icon delta joint for $850. I know it is $150 more than the BDS option but the hybrid has the benefits of a uniball (better movement and strength) AND the benefits of a ball joint (do not have to service as much). You would probably make the cost back on the service of the BDS/Baja Kits uniball.

I am running factory right now because I choose to go with better coil overs and rear shocks compared to the UCA. They are on my list of upgrades, but at this point in time, I haven't notice a "need" for them with the off roading I have done and there are other things on my list that are more important to me.

ronemca

Outstanding! Just what I was hoping for. It seems we are on the same page, Jacob! Cheers!

kbroderick

One other thing to consider: if you're going to put a plate-style winch bumper on, you're probably looking at over 200 pounds between the bumper and winch if you shop both for weight. Some of the off-road bumpers are 200 pounds before you add the winch, and the factory bumper assembly is only 45 pounds, so it's a pretty substantial difference. Add to that the limited front-axle GAWR headroom on these trucks, and your suspension plan should probably include uprated springs to handle that weight.

(one might suggest that the HDPP package would be helpful for the higher front GAWR, but it's not clear that there's any significant difference on the front end other than the frame thickness, the spring rate, and the shocks...then again, it's not entirely clear that there isn't)

Florida_F150

Agreed 100%

^^^^^ This. Same here. For the $600 - 1000 range, I think there are other higher priority off-roading items that will make more of a beneficial impact to the every-day off-roader than UCA's. That's not to say that I don't want them, or that I won't eventually get them. I'm sure at some point I will. But I think it's safe to say that upgraded coilovers, rear shocks, off-road tires, and even potentially a winch are better first investments than UCA's if you don't already have those items.