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-   -   Front driveshaft binding (https://www.f150forum.com/f34/front-driveshaft-binding-410142/)

Flexosaurus 03-07-2018 10:32 AM

Front driveshaft binding
 
On a 2014 f150 with a 6in rough country lift with the front driveshaft spacer. This is a coworkers truck and hes already gone through 2 front driveshafts due to the joint at the transfer case blowing out the accordion boot that houses the grease. How do we keep this from happening again? Ive looked at many other kits like bds, fabtech and readylift and they all look to have the same parts. I dont know what im missing.

antony1103 03-14-2018 11:37 AM

How many miles did the driveshaft make it before you had to replace them? Unfortunately a 6" lift is putting the drive-line under a lot of stress. You're going to be replacing parts a lot faster. You gotta pay to play.

Flexosaurus 03-14-2018 11:39 AM

One of 2
 

Originally Posted by antony1103 (Post 5700124)
How many miles did the driveshaft make it before you had to replace them? Unfortunately a 6" lift is putting the drive-line under a lot of stress. You're going to be replacing parts a lot faster. You gotta pay to play.

20k between changes. Also have a 2012 f150 wkth same exact lift with same miles and never replaced shaft on it. No binding issues.

antony1103 03-14-2018 11:54 AM

20k seems short, but not surprising. I see some people in the local car club replacing theirs every 30k or so. Unless you change the angle by raising the diff, you're not going to alleviate the stress on the joint. Even if you do raise the diff, you're only making things worse on your half-shafts, so that's not a solution in my book. Plus that puts you into custom fab territory since all of these kits are going to have the same parts (like you already said). Either way, you're putting stock parts into configurations they are not designed for, and your buddy isn't getting the luck of the draw parts-wise. Is he having any IWE issues that may be causing more wear on the drive-line? Unless hes using 4WD a lot, he could have an IWE that won't disengage.

With only 2 data points here its hard to make a trend. You mention the boot is ripping. I would inspect that regularly (every oil change?) and replace it as soon as it starts to rip. That way, you can change out the grease and maybe extend the life of the joint some. Personally, I would do that, then just replace the driveshaft when needed if he really wants to keep the lift.

That's my bias opinion. I'm not a fan of lift kits.

scannrman 03-14-2018 06:02 PM

I don’t know how much a factory driveshaft costs, but a mother solution would be to get a custom drive shaft made. Either a standard u-joint at the transfer case side or if a single U joint work due to the angle you can always get a double cardigan joint made for the transfer case side. That most likely for a run you anywhere between $300-$500 depending on the shop you use.

STingray1300 03-14-2018 10:17 PM

I'm reading verbiage that indicates problems with both/either the drive shaft or the axle/CV shafts. It's confusing what the problem actually is.

If it's the drive shaft (from TC to front diff), then yes, have a custom made - well worth it! (I had both custom made for an old Scout II I had. Never had a problem afterwards.

If it's the axle/CV shafts, then check these out: https://www.rcvperformance.com/ultim...tor-10-14.html

HTH!


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