Boss 0-3"
05-01-2016, 01:43 AM
#1
Boss 0-3"
Hey everyone,
Pretty new to this off road community, and new to this forum, this is actually my first post. Short intro, my names Carl and I am from the Dallas TX area, I work as a firefighter/Paramedic in the area. I just sold my old 2010 FX2 and I am looking at buying an 2014 XLT crewcab 4x4 with rear locker. I have never had a lift before but I am looking at getting the boss 0-3" coilover set and had a few questions. What size rear block do I need to pick for the truck to be level with the 3" in the front? If I do the 3" lift, do I need to be concerned with getting drop brackets or anything else not included in the kit to reduce additional wear/tear from the increased angles? If I stick with 18" wheels, what size all terrain tires would fit max without having rubbing issues? if I wanted to upgrade bumpers and add a winch in the future, will these support the additional weight or do I need to choose a different kit? What about issues of throwing off alignment or incorrect MPH?
Thanks,
Carl
Pretty new to this off road community, and new to this forum, this is actually my first post. Short intro, my names Carl and I am from the Dallas TX area, I work as a firefighter/Paramedic in the area. I just sold my old 2010 FX2 and I am looking at buying an 2014 XLT crewcab 4x4 with rear locker. I have never had a lift before but I am looking at getting the boss 0-3" coilover set and had a few questions. What size rear block do I need to pick for the truck to be level with the 3" in the front? If I do the 3" lift, do I need to be concerned with getting drop brackets or anything else not included in the kit to reduce additional wear/tear from the increased angles? If I stick with 18" wheels, what size all terrain tires would fit max without having rubbing issues? if I wanted to upgrade bumpers and add a winch in the future, will these support the additional weight or do I need to choose a different kit? What about issues of throwing off alignment or incorrect MPH?
Thanks,
Carl
Last edited by Firemedic731; 05-01-2016 at 01:53 AM.
05-02-2016, 08:57 PM
#2
Junior Member
Hi Carl,
The Boss coilovers are adustable so you don't neccessarily need to buy a new block for the back if you just want to level the truck. If you do want to go to the max of 3" then you'll need a block and in that case I would contact the F150 Lifts guy on this forum, I belive his name is Alex and I'm certain he will guide you in what you need for the truck to be level with the coilovers set at 3".
Drop brackets would only come in a kit with a full suspension lift and would require cutting your frame to install them. I would recommend reading the installation instructions for any of the major suspension lift brands (Rancho, BDS, ect.) to see how it's done. If you were to go that route then you wouldn't even need the Boss coilovers really. Full suspension lifts don't come cheap though, at least not the good ones.
As far as tires go, I'm not sure with the full 3", but I bought the Boss coilovers and plan to install them with about 2.5" of lift running 305/65/18 BF Goodrich KO2 tires on 18x9 wheels with +1 offset. I would imagine I would have to trim some plastic, but probably not much more. I'll find out in about a week when I get everything installed.
The Boss coilovers have a 700 lb/in spring, compared to the 450ish lb/in (depending on model) OEM spring. I doubt new bumpers would cause any droop unless they're massive.
Alignment at 3" is a question I can't answer as I just don't know much in that area, but if you add UCA's, I believe it heps with alignment in terms of getting it back to spec. Incorrect speedo can be fixed with a tuner where you can set your tires size and also adjust the shift points. At least that's what I did with my 03 with a 6" lift and 35" tires. I would imagine you can buy tuners for our year of truck as well, although I have not lookied into since I don't plan on running tires too much bigger than OEM.
Hope this helps.
-Mike
The Boss coilovers are adustable so you don't neccessarily need to buy a new block for the back if you just want to level the truck. If you do want to go to the max of 3" then you'll need a block and in that case I would contact the F150 Lifts guy on this forum, I belive his name is Alex and I'm certain he will guide you in what you need for the truck to be level with the coilovers set at 3".
Drop brackets would only come in a kit with a full suspension lift and would require cutting your frame to install them. I would recommend reading the installation instructions for any of the major suspension lift brands (Rancho, BDS, ect.) to see how it's done. If you were to go that route then you wouldn't even need the Boss coilovers really. Full suspension lifts don't come cheap though, at least not the good ones.
As far as tires go, I'm not sure with the full 3", but I bought the Boss coilovers and plan to install them with about 2.5" of lift running 305/65/18 BF Goodrich KO2 tires on 18x9 wheels with +1 offset. I would imagine I would have to trim some plastic, but probably not much more. I'll find out in about a week when I get everything installed.
The Boss coilovers have a 700 lb/in spring, compared to the 450ish lb/in (depending on model) OEM spring. I doubt new bumpers would cause any droop unless they're massive.
Alignment at 3" is a question I can't answer as I just don't know much in that area, but if you add UCA's, I believe it heps with alignment in terms of getting it back to spec. Incorrect speedo can be fixed with a tuner where you can set your tires size and also adjust the shift points. At least that's what I did with my 03 with a 6" lift and 35" tires. I would imagine you can buy tuners for our year of truck as well, although I have not lookied into since I don't plan on running tires too much bigger than OEM.
Hope this helps.
-Mike
Last edited by Mike480; 05-02-2016 at 09:03 PM.
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tareed94 (05-05-2016)
05-04-2016, 11:04 PM
#3
Senior Member
Strongly recommended not leveling more than 2" in the front. The resultant CV joint angle will be extreme and a real weak link in your drive train. And you will need UCAs anyway, even at 2" (if you're going to do anything but drive on the street). If you want 3", you should just get a 4" lift. 
05-05-2016, 08:31 AM
#4
Strongly recommended not leveling more than 2" in the front. The resultant CV joint angle will be extreme and a real weak link in your drive train. And you will need UCAs anyway, even at 2" (if you're going to do anything but i
drive on the street). If you want 3", you should just get a 4" lift.
drive on the street). If you want 3", you should just get a 4" lift.
05-05-2016, 09:45 AM
#5
Senior Member
05-05-2016, 09:50 AM
#6
Beer, Boats, and Trucks.
If you go Boss Coilovers talk to Alex from F150lifts.com. He's a really cool guy and will answer any question you have.
I would go Boss Coilovers set to 2.5" and a replacement 3" block in the rear. Match em up with 34"-35" tires and you are looking to gain about 4" give or take in total ride height.
I would go Boss Coilovers set to 2.5" and a replacement 3" block in the rear. Match em up with 34"-35" tires and you are looking to gain about 4" give or take in total ride height.
05-05-2016, 11:16 AM
#7
Trending Topics
05-05-2016, 11:38 AM
#8
Beer, Boats, and Trucks.
4"+ kits come with the parts necessary to relocate the diff and what you can think of as the "pivot points" for the control arms. Basically instead of forcing the control arms down further like a leveling kit, you get to keep the factory geometry just relocate it down a bit further. This comes with a much more intricate install process and usually a much higher price tag labor wise. You are no longer just swapping a coilover, you are removing most the front assembly and cutting a crossmember.
The following users liked this post:
Pauli18c (05-05-2016)
05-05-2016, 12:15 PM
#10
4"+ kits come with the parts necessary to relocate the diff and what you can think of as the "pivot points" for the control arms. Basically instead of forcing the control arms down further like a leveling kit, you get to keep the factory geometry just relocate it down a bit further. This comes with a much more intricate install process and usually a much higher price tag labor wise. You are no longer just swapping a coilover, you are removing most the front assembly and cutting a crossmember.
